Nana's Gun

[Jim Cook]

Many decades ago my Grandmother showed me the gun she kept in her bed table. She had it in case a burglar came into the house. Boy was I impressed. Nana had a real gun.

As I got older I realized it was so rusty that I sure the ball would not be able to make it out the end of the barrel and she had neither ball, black power or a cap.

Fast forward to now. My interests turned toward flint lock and cap and ball guns. I saw the Pedersoli Derringer kit, sent for it and it arrived today. There is no question, it is a copy of Nana's gun.

Before I start it I have a few novice questions:
1.) Any helpful suggestions I should know before I start working on the stock?
2.) What finish should I use on the stock?
3.) The instructions have you unscrewing the barrel to pour black power in and place a ball (with out a patch) and re-screw the barrel on. Is this what you do when you fire yours?
4.) What size cap should be used?
5.) Are there any other questions I should have asked?

 

[Zonie]

Are you referring to the Pedersoli screw barrel Derringer like the one shown in this link? http://www.dixiegunworks.com/produ...d=996&osCsid=5fc4f32e496993a9ef3449381049c3ce

I don't know what your knowledge of woodworking is so I'll assume you know nothing. (No offense intended).

A good garnet (red colored) sandpaper is about the best to use on wood although the other sandpapers made for wood will work.

On a stock this small I would start with 120 grit paper. When the stocks wood is nearly to shape switch to 180 grit paper. When the stock has been fully sanded with this, switch to 220 grit paper.

Where practical, sand in the direction of the woods grain. If you sand across the grain at 90 degrees to it, it will remove the wood very rapidly but it will leave scratches that, if not removed, will be visible after the stocks finish is applied.

It is a good idea to have the metal parts installed when you sand the wood down to match them but this can badly scratch the metal parts unless they are protected.

To protect the metal parts while sanding apply one or two layers of masking tape to them.
The tape will protect the metal although try to sand up to the tape and not across it.

When the grip matches the metal parts and has been fully sanded with the 220 grit paper you will need to "whisker" the wood.
This process raises any of the woods grain that has been crushed by the sanding process.

To "whisker" the wood wet it with water. Then let it fully dry. When you pick it up you will feel the tiny hairs of wood that stood up.

Run your finger in the direction of the grain.
In one direction it will feel smooth. In the other direction it will feel very rough. Remember this direction.

Using a new piece of 220 grit paper lightly rub it in the same direction that felt rough to remove the little whiskers.

Once this is done you can apply a finishing oil.
I recommend Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil but a good Tung oil or even boiled linseed oil will work.

Apply it very thinly and let it dry between coats.
Tru-Oil will take several hours. The other oils will take at least overnight and sometimes longer to dry. Boiled linseed can take weeks.

As for unscrewing the barrel, this was rather common with small pistols like this. They are usually called "Screw Barrel Pistols" and seldom is the word Derringer used with them.

To load the pistol place the recommended size round lead ball into the unscrewed barrel.
Fill the remaining space behind the ball with black powder or a synthetic black powder.
NEVER use a smokeless powder of any kind regardless of its color, many of which are almost black.

You should use 3Fg (FFFg) black powder but Pyrodex, 777 or the other synthetic powders will work. Dixie gunworks recommends using about 10 grains of powder but due to the guns design you cannot overload it.

Dixie gunworks recommends using a .454 diameter roundball although with its .458 diameter groove depth a .457 ball should also work.

#11 percussion caps should work fine with your pistol.

I'm sure I don't have to say it but, be careful with your gun. That little powder load behind a .45 caliber roundball can be quite deadly even at distant targets.

 

[Jim Cook]

Thank you very much for the detailed explaination.