Nasty Renegade

[nkbj]

Finally getting a round tuit...
Got an old Renegade stock with a crack high over the screw that retains the lock and slants down through under the tang to right in the middle of the lock mortise. Not good.
So, I'm going to do my best to fix the crack and rejuvenate this beastie. Double washed the crack out with denatured alcohol to help remove oil that could interfere with gluing.
So, what brand glue to use in this situation? Trying to get flow into the crack(s) is going to be tough so setting time shouldn't be too fast.

 

[Stumpkiller]

60 minute (or longer) epoxy.

 

[123.DieselBenz]

Brownells sells an apoxy for bedding actions ... It will stick anything together, I don't remember the name, but don't use the "gel" version.

ETA: Acraglas! http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1033/Product/ACRAGLAS_reg_

 

[nkbj]

Ah ha!
Thanks gents.

 

[Macon Due]

Sir
The Brownells 'Accu-Glass' epoxie is really good.If you can,,suck some up into a syringe and use that to get it down into the crack.Then use a hair dryer to help it get all the way down in. You can do the same with a good 'wood' glue and can even mix a little water with the wood glue to ensure it's thin enough to really get down all the way.
Macon

 

[Vaino]

Depending on how "open" the crack is, would determine what I would use. If the crack is wide enough or can be wedged apart, I'd use colored epoxy. If the crack isn't wide enough or can't be wedged open, I'd first stain down into the crack, let dry and then use the runny type of "super glue". In either case, a length of surgical tubing tightly wrapped around the cracked area would do the clamping. If "super glue" is used, have the tubing at hand and wrap quickly...Good luck...Fred

 

[Len Graves]

Good cheer: If you have access to compresses air you can use that to blow the glue into areas that might not be easy to reach otherwise. I have used yellow carpenters glue with success. Good luck.

 

[BrownBear]

Good cheer: If you have access to compresses air you can use that to blow the glue into areas that might not be easy to reach otherwise.

Works like a charm. It blows glue back into places it would never flow on its own, and smaller than any needle I've been able to push glue through.

 

[cutshurt]

If you dont have an air compresser try a can of dust off for computers works great. I would use tite bond 2 or 3 I use that glue for bows makeing and its tuff and flexable as well as water pruff when dry.

Darrel

 

[jethro224]

Sounds like good advice from everyone concerning crack fixing. I have a stock with a crack that I need to try some of the advice out myself. :thumbsup:

One thing that I did not see mentioned tho is the T/C lifetime warranty.
You may not need to repair that crack at all. Give 'em a call.

 

[bubba.50]

concernin' the t/c warranty: a friend recently sent a hawken in for repair of a very fixable crack. they replaced the stock but it took about three months and the piece of wood, while it was walnut, is the blandest & grayest piece of wood i've seen in some time. i've seen savage guns with better lookin' finish. for what it's worth and luck to ya friend, bubba.

 

[ebiggs1]

This Savage Fox Model B had a crack at the front edge just ½ inch above the bottom. On both sides, because of too much recoil.

I like to pin the crack together if possible. I use plain old Elmer’s Woodcraft glue, the yellow stuff.

This one also had the trigger guard hole stripped so I plugged it and re-drilled it.

These never come apart again! Here it is finished. You can sorta see where the crack was but it is pretty much gone.

 

[nkbj]

Have been doing some research today on epoxies. In general terms, the longer the working time, the lower the resistance to temperatures. One even said it was only for use in applications below 120 degrees. That means it could fall apart in the back seat. Also found out that acetone is the thing to pre-clean with rather than denatured alcohol. And, that with some epoxies you can thin the material with acetone when mixing the two parts in order to get better flow (but that should be tested before using on a stock).
For getting the glue into the cracks, perhaps the wood can be spot faced about 1/8" diameter inside the lock mortise and behind the tang. A bic pen barrel can be modified to make a glue gun to match the spot faces. Just have to have enough working time on the glue used. We'll see.

 

Goodcheer,
Unless you have to color the adhesive to help camoflage the crack, TiteBond II is the best you are going to find. For color tinting go with an epoy. Go to your local pharmacey and get some diabetes syringes for the application. Tie it togather and let it set for 24 hours and I defy you to get it to seperate.
Mark

 

[nkbj]

Found some lab testing on line comparing hard wood joints made up with epoxy, wood glues, hide glue.
The Titebond type formulation was the best, beating out the epoxy. How about that!

 

[nkbj]

Talked with Bobby Hoyt about sending this to him for a barrel once it's healed. Need to get my head out of the refinery specifications for a while and get some important stock work done!

 

[Stumpkiller]

Have been doing some research today on epoxies. In general terms, the longer the working time, the lower the resistance to temperatures. One even said it was only for use in applications below 120 degrees. That means it could fall apart in the back seat.

"Epoxies" is a broad category. I have used gallons of West Systems with 206 hardener that takes 10 to 15 hours to cure and up to four days to fully set, and a wood boat gets pretty warm in the summer sun (but you always use a UV blocker over epoxy). J-B Weld (6 hr set, 24 hr cure) is a version of epoxy and it is temperature stable well over 500°F (But would be butt ugly for stock work). In boat work and R/C airplane building I find the fast cure epoxies are brittle and less durable than the slower cures.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Repaired stocks are not uncommon on old originals. We never like them but they are a fact of life. My point is, fix it and move on. I would simply clean, as you did, the break and use Titebond II or III. Bind, let cure then put a couple pins through the wood as reinforcement. The pins can be brass. I like to use stiffer brazing rod. That can be run through a threading die to hold the glue better. I definitely do not reccomend any 'super glue a/k/a CA' for that kind of repair. Epoxies are good but not necessary. Gorilla glue will hold just fine but always makes a mess that is almost impossible to clean up. Good luck and let us know the final outcome.

 

[tg]

I have found Tightbond to work very well on wood products when fixing sills and mouldings and such that have splintered or broke, the syringe is the best method for cracks that I have found.