Need a little banter on a maybe purchase

[rrebuck]

Where are you in PA? I have a couple GPRs that I'd be willing to sell. I'm about 15 minsx south of Hagerstown MD.

 

[Relic shooter]

I have two in .54 caliber, both purchased used, one was a kit, the other factory. I am disappointed in both. The kit rifle came with only a partial crown on the muzzle and half untouched. Somehow I missed this when I bought it. 12-18" 'groups' at 50 yards. A buddy with a lathe recrowned it, but the best I can get out of it is 4-6". It looks good though, and more bench effort on my part might tighten the group. The factory rifle groups 3-4" at 50y benched. I consider that barely acceptable for deer hunting if I did not have something more accurate to use.

Been shooting muzzleloaders since 1977, and these two have stubbornly resisted giving me tight groups. Going to get me some JoAnn's #40 cotton drill patching material (subject of a current thread), then spend a day at the range (again) trying to work up an accurate load for both of these tomato stakes.

I think your on the right path to getting much tighter & consistent groups. .
Using high thread count '100% cotton pillow ticking is key to obtaining the best seal to get consistent pressures, tight groups & less fouling & need to swab between shots..
Washing the sizing out of the fabric before using makes it softer for better lube absorption & easier loading !that

*Patch Lube & Bore cleaner Tip;
Back in the 70's an oldtimer competitor at Friendship provided me with with a much favored patch lube formula that I & many on the forum continue to use today.
Mix one-third each of Murphys Oil Soap, rubbing alcohol & hydrogen peroxide.
I keep a small plastic squeeze bottle with a flip-up spout of this mixture in my shooting bag & range box, also serves as a good hand cleaner & to wipe the fouling off surface of flint & perc. guns.

 

[pacanis]

Where are you in PA? I have a couple GPRs that I'd be willing to sell. I'm about 15 minsx south of Hagerstown MD.

I'm in the corner where nothing is as far as muzzleloading shops and builders and those rendevous I see on YT.
By Erie.
Thanks for the offer.

 

[rp77469]

I think your on the right path to getting much tighter & consistent groups. .
Using high thread count '100% cotton pillow ticking is key to obtaining the best seal to get consistent pressures, tight groups & less fouling & need to swab between shots..
Washing the sizing out of the fabric before using makes it softer for better lube absorption & easier loading !that

*Patch Lube & Bore cleaner Tip;
Back in the 70's an oldtimer competitor at Friendship provided me with with a much favored patch lube formula that I & many on the forum continue to use today.
Mix one-third each of Murphys Oil Soap, rubbing alcohol & hydrogen peroxide.
I keep a small plastic squeeze bottle with a flip-up spout of this mixture in my shooting bag & range box, also serves as a good hand cleaner & to wipe the fouling off surface of flint & perc. guns.

I'm ordering from JoAnns because I ran out if my old ticking. The newer ticking from chinamart has shown more tearing and burning than the lot I've used for the last 10-20 years and more than one rifle is showing larger groups. Compressed patch thickness measured the same but I don't think the weave is as tight even after washing and drying a couple times. I am still shooting Goex from the same lot, same caps and swaged roundball. The patching is the only difference outside of me getting older :0 . Been shooting bp for over 40 years, but it is always great to have someone confirm I'm on the right track.

My lube has been pure bear grease for several years, but am down to my last pint and a half. I will switch to bear oil when it is gone as I rendered 18 pints of oil this winter. If I put it into the fridge, it magically turns into bear grease! I also have had over three decades of success using Lube 1000 and/or plain spit as a lube, depending on the rifle being used and the objective for the day. I made the switch to bear grease because it was 1) Free and 2) the ONLY thing I found that gave a 1-hole, 4-shot 50y group from a custom rifle that was given to me by a dear, departed friend. I spent many days at the range working on getting that rifle to group at less than 3-4 inches. If I change lubes or vary the powder charge even by a couple of grains the group opens up. It's the most persnickety rifle I have ever owned.

I must disagree with your cleaner suggestion though. I am a retired chemical engineer and still remember from my Corrosion classes some of the bad things that can happen with peroxides and steel/iron. I will stick with spit, a squirt of cheap window cleaner (no ammonia), or tepid water and a drop of Dawn detergent for my flintlocks for cleaning.

 

[William O.]

BUT... my big screen is acting up and it looks like I need a new TV.
Weird timing.

Sounds like my luck. Whenever I buy a gun, one of my major appliances would go out.

 

[pacanis]

I would have saved money buying the gun, lol.

 

[ETipp]

Most of the time when things have been going fairly well for a while and I let go of a little money to purchase something I want, soon afterwards some kind of necessity gives up the fight.

 

[Relic shooter]

I'm ordering from JoAnns because I ran out if my old ticking. The newer ticking from chinamart has shown more tearing and burning than the lot I've used for the last 10-20 years and more than one rifle is showing larger groups. Compressed patch thickness measured the same but I don't think the weave is as tight even after washing and drying a couple times. I am still shooting Goex from the same lot, same caps and swaged roundball. The patching is the only difference outside of me getting older :0 . Been shooting bp for over 40 years, but it is always great to have someone confirm I'm on the right track.

My lube has been pure bear grease for several years, but am down to my last pint and a half. I will switch to bear oil when it is gone as I rendered 18 pints of oil this winter. If I put it into the fridge, it magically turns into bear grease! I also have had over three decades of success using Lube 1000 and/or plain spit as a lube, depending on the rifle being used and the objective for the day. I made the switch to bear grease because it was 1) Free and 2) the ONLY thing I found that gave a 1-hole, 4-shot 50y group from a custom rifle that was given to me by a dear, departed friend. I spent many days at the range working on getting that rifle to group at less than 3-4 inches. If I change lubes or vary the powder charge even by a couple of grains the group opens up. It's the most persnickety rifle I have ever owned.

I must disagree with your cleaner suggestion though. I am a retired chemical engineer and still remember from my Corrosion classes some of the bad things that can happen with peroxides and steel/iron. I will stick with spit, a squirt of cheap window cleaner (no ammonia), or tepid water and a drop of Dawn detergent for my flintlocks for cleaning.

Can never go wrong with bear grease, it's what I use when leaving my rifle loaded during big game season. Only have a couple ounces left & at 81 I'm now too far over the hill to hunt anymore.
I'm no chemist but have used the 3-part mixture with hydrogen peroxide for close to 50 years as the ideal patch lube in my big bore original English sporting rifles, Jaegers & pistols with zero corrosion side effects in competition shooting matches.
Perhaps the Murphys oil soap & alcohol in the mix has prevented any negative side effects ?
Bottom line, I've noticed most all of us oldtimers brag they have the best formula but being I was given this mix about 50 years ago by a really old guy at Friendship I can't lay claim to this recipe

 

[SgtMaj65]

Love my .50 percussion GPR. It shoots way better with open sights than anything I’m doing with aging eyes. It’s a shooter.

 

[nhmoose]

After 15 years of being an FFL I have never seen a 99% condition firearm. 90% at best

 

[Loja man]

I know it’s off the table now but I love my GPR!! I had a TC Hawkins and like the GPR a lot more… I still have the GPR but not the Hawkins. For what it’s worth.