I got all my stuff from TOTW and began trying to fit my stuff up, i have the replacement tc stock and have the L&R lock thats a fit in for the tc(flint).I figured it would just about fit up but i've had to remove alot of wood inside the lock. Is this common? I figured i'd have to take it down where the face of the lock fits flush with the stock, but it looks like if it sitts fush the hammer is going to contact the stock. It just don't look like it fits up that great being a tc stock and a fit in lock.
Need advice again!
- Thread starter Brad
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Although I haven't worked with a TOW replacement stock for a TC, most of the pre-carved stocks leave some wood where the lockplate will fit. This is usually around the outside of the lockplate and they leave some wood so you can inlet it for an exact fit with your lock.
As for material down in the cavity there are usually a few places where some material must be removed but this shouldn't be a lot of material.
I say that without seeing your replacement lock so I am guessing. If the stock was made for a TC lock with it's coil springs, and your new replacement lock has a flat spring it might need a whole lot of wood removed.
Also, because the lock was made by a different company, it may have material in places that the TC lock doesn't.
As for the flushness of the lockplate with the side of the stock, it should be flush or even slightly below the surface of the wood. This allows you to sand the wood down flush with the lock.
If the stock was made for a precussion (as most TCs are) it will have some wood in the way for a flintlock.
The hammer fall on a precussion lock is stopped by a internal stop built in to it. This stop is often the tumbler bridle.
Flintlocks usually have a notch built into the cock which stops on the top of the lockplate or bolster.
Look at your flintlock with the cock (hammer) down and see if it is stopped from rotating further because a area of the cock is resting on the lockplate. This is common with a flintlock, and usually doesn't exist on a precussion lock.
Because of this flintlock method of stopping the cock, the wood on the stock must be removed to provide clearance.
To determine how much wood needs to be removed, install the flintlock with the cock down and mark the cocks position on the stock.
Repeat this with the lock cocked, marking the position.
The amount of wood which will need to be removed is a little bit forward of the forward "down position" and about 3/32 behind the rear "cocked position".
The depth will be slightly less than the thickness of the lockplate so it won't leave a hole or gap down into the lock cavity.
The reason for removing more wood aft of the "cocked position" is because the cock must be pulled back further than the "resting" "cocked position" to allow the sear to fully engage the tumbler notch when you cock the gun.
Hopefully this makes sense.
As for material down in the cavity there are usually a few places where some material must be removed but this shouldn't be a lot of material.
I say that without seeing your replacement lock so I am guessing. If the stock was made for a TC lock with it's coil springs, and your new replacement lock has a flat spring it might need a whole lot of wood removed.
Also, because the lock was made by a different company, it may have material in places that the TC lock doesn't.
As for the flushness of the lockplate with the side of the stock, it should be flush or even slightly below the surface of the wood. This allows you to sand the wood down flush with the lock.
If the stock was made for a precussion (as most TCs are) it will have some wood in the way for a flintlock.
The hammer fall on a precussion lock is stopped by a internal stop built in to it. This stop is often the tumbler bridle.
Flintlocks usually have a notch built into the cock which stops on the top of the lockplate or bolster.
Look at your flintlock with the cock (hammer) down and see if it is stopped from rotating further because a area of the cock is resting on the lockplate. This is common with a flintlock, and usually doesn't exist on a precussion lock.
Because of this flintlock method of stopping the cock, the wood on the stock must be removed to provide clearance.
To determine how much wood needs to be removed, install the flintlock with the cock down and mark the cocks position on the stock.
Repeat this with the lock cocked, marking the position.
The amount of wood which will need to be removed is a little bit forward of the forward "down position" and about 3/32 behind the rear "cocked position".
The depth will be slightly less than the thickness of the lockplate so it won't leave a hole or gap down into the lock cavity.
The reason for removing more wood aft of the "cocked position" is because the cock must be pulled back further than the "resting" "cocked position" to allow the sear to fully engage the tumbler notch when you cock the gun.
Hopefully this makes sense.
THANKS ZONIE, yes the lock does have a flat spring. I was just removing some wood and went thropugh into the ramrod cavity, but from the looks of it this is how it has to be, but if i go that deep how is the ramrod going to fit all the way down?
Here again, I'm guessing.
You may have removed more wood than was necessary. That could explain your breaking into the ramrod cavity. On the other hand, you may have to break into the cavity to install the lock without its spring hitting the wood.
All is not lost though so don't give up.
After you have the lock installed and functioning then insert the ramrod and see if it really hangs up on the spring.
It may not.
If it does hang up, I only know of a few solutions You may file a flat on the side of the rod to clear the sprng. Sanding down the outside diameter of the ramrod in that area is another solution. If the ramrod has a brass endcap on that end, you may have to remove it.
You won't have the only gun around that has had this done to solve the problem I assure you. In fact, the ramrod for my Curly Maple stocked TC had to have a little work done to clear the barrel wedge.
Just don't cut the ramrod length down to solve the problem or you will have a ramrod which is only good for filling up the thimbles.
Good Luck to you!
You may have removed more wood than was necessary. That could explain your breaking into the ramrod cavity. On the other hand, you may have to break into the cavity to install the lock without its spring hitting the wood.
All is not lost though so don't give up.
After you have the lock installed and functioning then insert the ramrod and see if it really hangs up on the spring.
It may not.
If it does hang up, I only know of a few solutions You may file a flat on the side of the rod to clear the sprng. Sanding down the outside diameter of the ramrod in that area is another solution. If the ramrod has a brass endcap on that end, you may have to remove it.
You won't have the only gun around that has had this done to solve the problem I assure you. In fact, the ramrod for my Curly Maple stocked TC had to have a little work done to clear the barrel wedge.
Just don't cut the ramrod length down to solve the problem or you will have a ramrod which is only good for filling up the thimbles.
Good Luck to you!
Guest
Are you sure it
You need to take your lock apart all the way down to the plate. I mean everything! Now, take the lock plate and seat it into the inlet, is the lock plate setting flush? If so add a part to the plate, lets say the pan bolster. Now does it fit into the inlet? When the plate does no longer seat then its time to apply inlet compound to the part last added and test fit. Remove small amounts of marked wood as needed. Don't remove wood where not marked with compound. Don't remove wood just because you want to. Just where needed.
Do this over and over until all is seated.
You will probably need to remove wood from the stock to allow the cock to fall to its forward stop. But do NOT remove wood for the cock until all parts are installed to the lock plate and it seats into the inlet. :m2c:
Do this over and over until all is seated.
You will probably need to remove wood from the stock to allow the cock to fall to its forward stop. But do NOT remove wood for the cock until all parts are installed to the lock plate and it seats into the inlet. :m2c:
Speaking of Inletting Compound, I bought a bottle of it 10 years ago and have used a little over half of it.
The bottle is about 1 inch in diameter and about 1 inch high.
Talk about a little goes a long way.
For those not familure with it, it is, as near as I can tell, a mixture of carbon with just enough oil in it to make a thick syrup. You brush it onto the part and anything the part touches gets blackened. This includes your fingers.
I tried the "hold the part in the yellow part of a candle flame until the part has a layer of carbon on it", and while that worked well, it also burned my fingers more than once.
If you don't want to buy this stuff that lasts forever, steal (borrow?) your wifes lipstick and coat the suspect area of the part with that.
To keep peace in the family, you might want to go buy your own lipstick, but get a color your wife would never wear so she won't think it's hers.
Also don't joke about it belonging to your secret lover. Wives have a very poor sence of humor when it comes to things like that. ::
The bottle is about 1 inch in diameter and about 1 inch high.
Talk about a little goes a long way.
For those not familure with it, it is, as near as I can tell, a mixture of carbon with just enough oil in it to make a thick syrup. You brush it onto the part and anything the part touches gets blackened. This includes your fingers.
I tried the "hold the part in the yellow part of a candle flame until the part has a layer of carbon on it", and while that worked well, it also burned my fingers more than once.
If you don't want to buy this stuff that lasts forever, steal (borrow?) your wifes lipstick and coat the suspect area of the part with that.
To keep peace in the family, you might want to go buy your own lipstick, but get a color your wife would never wear so she won't think it's hers.
Also don't joke about it belonging to your secret lover. Wives have a very poor sence of humor when it comes to things like that. ::
Sorry guys i have'nt been on lately i had my heart tore out the other day, i called down to talk to my mentor who helps me out and his wife told me passed away just a few hours before i called, the funeral is tonight. I will dearly miss him and know now what it's like to lose a close freind. I'm sorta stuck now on my muzzleloader and am going to have to find someone else in my area that can help me out. :cry:
That's rough. I lost a dear friend and mentor about a year and a half ago.
Stick with it and honor his memory.
PM GobblerKnob if you're in N.Central PA.
Condolences to you and the family.
Stick with it and honor his memory.
PM GobblerKnob if you're in N.Central PA.
Condolences to you and the family.
