I'm not sure your question has enough information to get good responses. Are you target shooting, where you load and shoot in short order, or are you hunting where the ball and patch may be in contact with the powder charge for several hours?
I have not used 'Moose Milk', but over the years have tried quite a few patch lubes for hunting (both liquid and grease based). First, and foremost, I did not want any kind of 'moisture' from the patch resting on top of my powder charge and affecting the way that charge may burn. In my mind, at least, the purpose of the patch is to 'seal' the bore around the ball. So, I never worried about 'patch blowout' or burn through, whether it happened or not with a particular lube, liquid or grease based. As long as the patch sealed the bore and gave me consistent velocities and accuracy I never cared what the patch looked like after it was out of the barrel. My thought has always been that if the top side of my powder charge absorbed varying (depending the duration of 'contact time') amounts of lube, more inconsistencies would occur in both velocity and accuracy. This is one of the reasons I early on abandoned the use of pre-cut patches in favor of pillow ticking cut off at the muzzle. I favored a liquid lube in a small squeeze bottle (sometimes I used empty eye drop bottles) so I could control the application of the lube so it would encircle the ball, but be very limited in what could get beneath the ball. I would take the strip of ticking and 'draw a circle' of lube on the strip, and place the dry center of the circle over the bore and 'short start' the ball, and then cut the patch and ram it home. My method worked well for me in both a 36 cal. squirrel rifle and a 50 cal.
I have not used 'Moose Milk', but over the years have tried quite a few patch lubes for hunting (both liquid and grease based). First, and foremost, I did not want any kind of 'moisture' from the patch resting on top of my powder charge and affecting the way that charge may burn. In my mind, at least, the purpose of the patch is to 'seal' the bore around the ball. So, I never worried about 'patch blowout' or burn through, whether it happened or not with a particular lube, liquid or grease based. As long as the patch sealed the bore and gave me consistent velocities and accuracy I never cared what the patch looked like after it was out of the barrel. My thought has always been that if the top side of my powder charge absorbed varying (depending the duration of 'contact time') amounts of lube, more inconsistencies would occur in both velocity and accuracy. This is one of the reasons I early on abandoned the use of pre-cut patches in favor of pillow ticking cut off at the muzzle. I favored a liquid lube in a small squeeze bottle (sometimes I used empty eye drop bottles) so I could control the application of the lube so it would encircle the ball, but be very limited in what could get beneath the ball. I would take the strip of ticking and 'draw a circle' of lube on the strip, and place the dry center of the circle over the bore and 'short start' the ball, and then cut the patch and ram it home. My method worked well for me in both a 36 cal. squirrel rifle and a 50 cal.
