Need Help Jäger Rifle Load nothing works😩😩

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Hello my friends sorry for my late answer but I was on holiday. It has no time for this project. Now I have buy a new Colerain barrel 58. I think that the old barrel has too many failures, and the only way is sent him down to Suhl and rebarreling it next size. and then the new parrot holders was with dovetail it’s also the way that it was fixed it’s the old Bar or was new and then I think I have a interchangeable barrel system and both are accurate so I hope thank you for your good advice, and I hope you stand by me with my decision
 
The barrel look great , thats what i all check. But can any mistake weight so heavy i did not assemble the kit a friend of mine do it in the 1998 an sell it to me 2021 but he did no recall about any datas he is a dealer for bp guns and reloading things. I like the käger but no accurary ist a bad taste so was at a point with no ideal by the way the .610 with 0.15 patch dont go down only the .610/0.10“ patch
Have you tried a .60 round ball and a .20 patch? Probably round bottom grooves.
 
Yes, there are times where a barrel is just not workable. The law of diminishing returns takes effect after awhile. You gave it a great effort and I’m sure the colerain will cure your problems. I hope you can enjoy it to the fullest. I would love to hear how it performs. I expect it will be excellent
 
Hello Friends,
I have many Flinters and all works right but my Jäger Rifle a Totw jäger Set in .62 with Colraine Barrel 31“ it want getno good groupings! I have no more Ideas i test with PrB in .595/.610 i test with .20 Slugs from Brennecke that i calibrate for fit i use Swiss no.3 in different weight have different patches Felts ect…..
But nothing give good grouping! Is the barrel bad ? What can i do the have good results?! Hope for your help
I had a .62 jeager Rice barrel with round bottom rifling, similar to your Colerain. Took awhile to find the loads that worked. It did take .610 ball and shot best with 100 to 110 grains 2f and wonder-lubed .018 to .020 patch. This was very tight and required short starter. Good hunting load. Someone on this forum recommended chamois patches (cut from genuine chamois I bought at auto parts store). Though thinner, and much easier to load, the chamois is compressible and expands once loaded to fill the rifling grooves. I used wonder lube on these patches and used 50 grains 3f for offhand practice. Occasional flyers with the 100 grain hunting load and chamois patches, but not enough to keep me from using it for my reload when hunting.
 
I used a .62 Jager , Getz barrel , 90 gr ffg Hunting size groups to 65 yds. , bad eyes. Killed many deer w/ it. Needed a longer sight plane , as I am very far sighted. Built a , .62 long rifle , using a Getz 1" by 38 in. long st. Oct barrel. This turned out to be my 2nd all time favorite deer rifle . Using 90 gr. ffg , .610 ball , .015 patch , Bore Butter on both sides of patch , cleaned off w/ finger on a hard surface . Good enough grouping for consistent 100 yd. shots from a rest at four inches. Not bragging , just stating what happend , last hr. of the day Pa. flintlock deer season. I was stationed as a watcher in an old stone foundation looking into a brushy field w/a deer drive about to end in front of me. Four does came out into the open at a fast walk , w/lead doe ahead of the others. Had a superb rest across the foundation , gaged the distance to be about 125 yds. , well w/ln my kill capability w/the .62. Put the top of the front sight 4 " above the does nose , fired. Heard the ball strike meat , and the deer disappeared. Going to the deer , I got worried as I stepped off between 180 , and 200 yds. Was way off on my distance estimation of 125 yds. . , and the deer was MIA. Found hair ball , no deer. The last driver was coming in , and said , there's a deer laying in this ditch here. Deer found w/ a hole in the neck just behind the skull. Turned out to have been the longest shot , I ever made w/ any deer rifle. Am extremely thankful for the good luck.
 
need to check the crown.
not saying for sure its the problem .
but you need to check that to make sure the crown is good .
that's one of the biggest issues when looking for something wrong with a rifle thats not accurate
 
Your getting some good shooting tips from forum members !

As others state, first determine that the barrels' muzzle is properly crowned & is in perfect alignment with the bore...
If the barrel's crown is ok, check out the following...

Post photos of your fired patches !!
*As other forum members have stated, fired patches serve to resolve most accuracy issues.
Make sure that the 'compressed' patch thickness is at least equal to the depth of the rifling & the ball diameter is no more than 0.10 thousands smaller than the bore diameter.

Bore conditioning tip;
The rifling in most modern manufactured muzzleloading barrels is cut to much shallower depth than original barrels.
Modern mfg barrels with round-bottom rifling usually require a much tighter patched round ball fit to prevent skidding & blown out patches.

If when loading you feel varying resistance try lapping the bore with medium grade steel wool or 3M abrasive cloth wrapped around your cleaning jag. Perform extra laps in any tight spots until the jag moves with uniform pressure from the breech to the muzzle.
 
The underlugs that hold the barrel to the stock should have a slot in them where the pin goes through, not just a hole drilled through them for the pin. You want that slot to relieve pressure when the wood expands and contracts due to the weather.
I think it's the barrel that expands and moves forward when it gets hot. Not so much the stock. Mauser rifles had stepped barrels just for that reason. When the wood of the stock expands, due to the moisture content, I don't think it moves back or forward. But I could be wrong.
 
The duct tape to hold the barrel in is just an experiment to see if the barrel lugs are affecting the accuracy. If it helps, you need to slot the pin holes in the lugs so the stock wood can move.
Yes, the lugs should be slotted, but I still think it's the barrel that moves, not the stock.
 
I try next week with 600 balls maybee it goes better?! Are Colrain Barrels problematic?
I have the same barrel, no problem. I shoot a .600" ball, .023" patch, and 110 grains of Swiss 1.5fg. Shoots around 3-4" at 100 yards, and two deer and one black bear so far. No misses.
 
Yes, the lugs should be slotted, but I still think it's the barrel that moves, not the stock.

Not having slotted lugs is a valid point.
Barrels heat up & expand when fired, slotted lugs allow for expansion & contraction.
Most quality vintage European & English firearms I've owned have this feature.
 
Info that I have saved for my 62 Colerain bbl.

.62 Colerain Loads:

I just figured out the load it likes, 75gr. of swiss ff and a .018 pillow ticking patch with olive oil. and a 600 ball. i shot a one hole group at 50 yards off the bench. Mike Garner



I shot a .604 ball from a sc Lyman mould in my Colerain round grooved .62 swamped transitional jaeger. I used a .020 patch to load easily with the ramrod and had plenty of deerhunting accuracy. Wonky

Russ T Frizen

I use .600 balls in my 42" Colrain barrel with .015 patches
over 80 grains of GOEX ffg. They load easily and I can get 2-3" groups at 100 yards on a good day.

As stated above, you need a good crown to get good looking patches!!!!
 
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