Need Longer Nipples
- Thread starter avery
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The hammer actually doesn't have to strike the nipples if it will bust a cap with regularity, has he tried it? Go to Track of the Wolf (http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/807/1) and buy Ampco bronze nipples. They recommend their new stainless ones but I have never had an issue with the Ampco nipples. Do not buy Italian made stainless nipples as they are of no better quality than their steel ones, they just don't rust. You can measure the ones in the revolver for thread pitch and cone length (from the area where the cap seats to the mating surface where it meets the cylinder to get a longer nipple.
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This is more of an across-the-board problem than we have addressed.
Many of the "modern made" nipples have a cone height that is minimal (read that as too darn short--particularly in antique percussions)because there IS no standard for that dimension.
The AMPCO nipples typically have longer cones and don't give us issues
Many of the "modern made" nipples have a cone height that is minimal (read that as too darn short--particularly in antique percussions)because there IS no standard for that dimension.
The AMPCO nipples typically have longer cones and don't give us issues
zimmerstutzen
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Lastly, as I understand it, Euroarms guns have the same thread and shape as the Pietta nipples, EXCEPT that the cone of the Euroarms nipples and replacements are a half millimeter shorter than the pietta nipples. Often sold as "Italian repro replacements" they fit but depending on the gun, may not work.
t.l.a.r. eng
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Why should the hammer contact the nipple?
If the revolver is dry fired it is to advantage the hammer misses the nipple. The ignition mixture in the cap is usually more than thick enough to make up for a small gap.
If the nipple is too long, the hammer cannot travel far enough forward after compressing the ignition mixture, and sometimes the bolt may not slide off the cam allowing the bolt to be released.
With .010 gap between the hammer face and the nipple, an accidental dry firing keeps the hammer from peening over the end of the nipple. The inside curve of the hammer will contact a meatier part of the frame usually without any affect to the frame. Even brass frames.
With the too long stock nipples, they usually get chucked in the lathe and the cone angles re-adjusted to fit the more common # 11 caps, then the length is trimmed for .010 gap to the hammer face.
Just what works for me. :idunno:
If the revolver is dry fired it is to advantage the hammer misses the nipple. The ignition mixture in the cap is usually more than thick enough to make up for a small gap.
If the nipple is too long, the hammer cannot travel far enough forward after compressing the ignition mixture, and sometimes the bolt may not slide off the cam allowing the bolt to be released.
With .010 gap between the hammer face and the nipple, an accidental dry firing keeps the hammer from peening over the end of the nipple. The inside curve of the hammer will contact a meatier part of the frame usually without any affect to the frame. Even brass frames.
With the too long stock nipples, they usually get chucked in the lathe and the cone angles re-adjusted to fit the more common # 11 caps, then the length is trimmed for .010 gap to the hammer face.
Just what works for me. :idunno:
zimmerstutzen
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Agreed that a small gap is desirable
However the hammer still must strike and ignite the cap. The thickness of cap material and chemical is probably about a half millimeter. If a pitta already has clearance substituting a euro arms nipple may be too short for ignition
However the hammer still must strike and ignite the cap. The thickness of cap material and chemical is probably about a half millimeter. If a pitta already has clearance substituting a euro arms nipple may be too short for ignition
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