Need Some Help.

[Valkyrie]

Inlet the entry thimble this evening. It went a little askew.

Try and fix it?

Leave it as is?

Will it be fixable as in the stock shaping make it less noticeable?

The pic is with a string line. I had a pencil line but the mess from the I letting black obliterated it and I went askew as I was working and by the time I realized it was too late.

 

[billraby]

I would file down the one side so that it matches across the string line then fill in the inletting gap with some wood.

 

[TDM]

I’d re contour the exposed drop to match the lines of the thimble.

 

[Valkyrie]

Thanks Bill. I thought about that some also. A ramrod blank slides in fine. A little tight as it’s all still very rough.

Any thoughts on how to fill the gap with wood? Filler from dust and glue? Slice a fine sliver from a maple board and glue it in and clean it up?

 

[64Springer]

.

 

[deerstalkert]

if you do leave it as is, you will have to taper the ram rod . left full diameter it will bind on the mouth of the thimble. don't ask how i know!
but you can try doing as mister Raby says in regard to filing one side to get the alignment, then cautiously flatter the tang of the thimble to spread it, that could save you from wood filler. can't flatten too much or it will bind the rr under the tang.
another fix would be to file the edge to get the alignment correct, then solder some filigree on the tang edge to cover any gap.
i did just what you have done on my latest, a fowler. i left it and just make sure i put it up so i don't sit and stare at it!
it actually has a benefit in holding my RR tight.

 

[Valkyrie]

if you do leave it as is, you will have to taper the ram rod . left full diameter it will bind on the mouth of the thimble. don't ask how i know!
but you can try doing as mister Raby says in regard to filing one side to get the alignment, then cautiously flatter the tang of the thimble to spread it, that could save you from wood filler. can't flatten too much or it will bind the rr under the tang.
another fix would be to file the edge to get the alignment correct, then solder some filigree on the tang edge to cover any gap.
i did just what you have done on my latest, a fowler. i left it and just make sure i put it up so i don't sit and stare at it!
it actually has a benefit in holding my RR tight.

A ramrod blank goes right in. So I am gonna sit on my hands for a few days and think on all the great help here.

Just kicking myself because I had a centerline marked out but the inletting black is terrible and obliterated it. Th figured I was far enough along I didn’t need it anyways.

 

[billraby]

Cut a piece of wood that is bigger than the hole that is left over and glue it into place. Then inlet the entry pipe back into that extra wood. Use a piece of wood from the stock if you can so that you get a good match. If the grain matches and you get a nice tight seam where the wood is glued together it will be nearly invisible when finished. Don't use dust and glue. That will stick out like a sore thumb.

 

[64Springer]

Sitting on your hands is the correct move. Sit tight and dwell on for a bit. Pondering works too.

Personally, I wouldn't try and adjust it. It won't be seen from either side. Only you know it's there. And the person who does see it and questions it couldn't do any better.

Bugger up the little slivers of wood or filler or glue and saw dust and you may wish you had left well enough alone.

The main thing is that a ramrod slides in with no interference.

 

[deerstalkert]

A ramrod blank goes right in. So I am gonna sit on my hands for a few days and think on all the great help here.

Just kicking myself because I had a centerline marked out but the inletting black is terrible and obliterated it. Th figured I was far enough along I didn’t need it anyways.

the nice thing about a build, you can work on something else while sitting on your hands!

 

[Valkyrie]

the nice thing about a build, you can work on something else while sitting on your hands!

True. I do have all kinds of stuff I’m always tinkering with.

 

[Col. Batguano]

I would do as Bill Raby said. RR pipes are always best marked and inlet with the RR in them make sure you don't run in to issues such as you did. I inlet the entry pipe with one of the non-entry pipes first, and then change it out with the entry pipe so that I'm then only inletting the tail and transition.

It might help to take more wood off in the transition area too. It's really hard to get good even contact in that area when you're digging a deep trench for it. Same thing with the back of the tail. Some times you can peen the tail a little to lengthen it and make it a little wider.

Go slow. It's not a race. If it helps at all entry pipes and butt plates are 2 items that most guys dread to some extent.

 

[billraby]

I never had any trouble with butt plates or entry pipes. And I don't see what the big fuss is about ramrod holes.

 

[Valkyrie]

I never had any trouble with butt plates or entry pipes. And I don't see what the big fuss is about ramrod holes.

It wasn’t hard to do at all. A little tedious maybe. I just did it a little crooked, lol!

Your videos are what made me want to try my hand at this! So glad I did!

Back in the 70s my dad, grandfather and uncles all bought those TC Hawken “kits”. Pennsylvania started a late season traditional flintlock deer season and I remember as a kid everyone working on their guns over the the year, shooting them and going out after the New Year holiday. It was a fun time and while I’m no master craftsman, I think I’ll have a rest nice rifle to give to my brother. And then decide what I’m going to build next!

 

[Valkyrie]

What are the chances I can peen the material and stretch out the tail to match the off side? Its made of standard 16-18ga stock.

I also thought to cut the tail off and braze a new wider tail on the thimble.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

That will be fine once your stock is all shaped out.

 

[Valkyrie]

Looked at it for a while today. Think I’m going to leave it be for now. If I start shaping out the stock and it’s really messed up I will go with what Bill offered.

Won’t get much done this next couple months. Maybe fit the rest of the thimbles and the butt plate but I’m leaving for deployment in a week.

 

[Valkyrie]

Spent a couple days pondering this. I’m gonna do what Bill says and for a piece in there, file off the one side to center the material on the tail and inlet it again. I have a piece of the stock I can use from when I cut it down to length. I’ll saw off a piece in the same area as the I let, radius it on the bottom for a tight fit, glue and clamp in place with surgical tubing.

Something close to this.

 

[Valkyrie]

Ok so I glued in a small strip of wood I cut from a piece of the stock. It’s identical grain obviously and I tried my best to orient it well. The joint is very tight. It’s wrapped up in big rubber bands for a clamp until tomorrow. I used Titebond. Haven’t touched the thimble yet. Gonna see how it all looks and that way I can go back by chiseling out the patch if need be. But I think this is gonna work out. Thanks everyone.

 

[Pete G]

Good on you. Dust and glue always looks like dust and glue.