Needed to turn down 40 cal jag

[Melnic]

So, I have a Dixie Gun works 40 cal flint (cub?) kit that I purchased from a Pawn shop a couple years ago and built up. I did not shoot it much the first year cause I was so busy moving. I'm hoping to shoot it more this spring. It came with a jag that was .335 in diameter. The tip was more pointed than cupped (concave for a ball). I purchased a 40 cal jag but it is wayy to big in diameter. I could not push a wet cleaning patch through. Jag was about .370 diameter

I chucked it up in a drill and layed it down onto a file and got it down to .350 in the middle and .340 at the lower (tip) part.

Is this common to have to reduce a 40 cal jag?

Barrel is stamped Pedersoli on it as well as Dixie Gun works Union City Tennessee

 

[30coupe]

It is not unusual to have to turn them down. I don't have a 40 cal., but I have done it on a jag for my TC Hawken 50 cal. because I want to be able to use the jag to swipe the barrel. As mine came, it was too tight with a cleaning patch to go down the barrel without pushing all the crud to the bottom with it. I want it loose enough to go down with little to no resistance, then bunch up the patch at the bottom and PULL the crud out.

 

[Rifleman1776]

It is not unusual to have to turn them down. I don't have a 40 cal., but I have done it on a jag for my TC Hawken 50 cal. because I want to be able to use the jag to swipe the barrel. As mine came, it was too tight with a cleaning patch to go down the barrel without pushing all the crud to the bottom with it. I want it loose enough to go down with little to no resistance, then bunch up the patch at the bottom and PULL the crud out.

Yep, wat 30 said. I needed a couple .50 jags (already had two but extras are always needed ;-) ). I had a couple .54 from a previous rifle I sold recently. Just put them in the drill press and turned down with the flat side of file. Used caliper mic to get to size I wanted. When right size I deepened the grooves with a small triangular file. Works easy but might take a little longer than you will anticipate. Saves having to buy new stuff.

 

[Melnic]

thx,
Is there a way to know how much to turn them down without shooting and cleaning the powder residue?
I know that when cleaning, it should be harder to pull then push but when sizing it, I have a clean barrel.

 

[30coupe]

thx,
Is there a way to know how much to turn them down without shooting and cleaning the powder residue?
I know that when cleaning, it should be harder to pull then push but when sizing it, I have a clean barrel.

It is kind of a cut and try thing. I just went to the point where it pretty much dropped down the bore but I could feel some drag on the patch when I pulled it back up. That was obviously with a clean barrel. I was also using a metal range rod rather than a wooden ramrod. It seemed to work once I took it out and did some shooting. Also bear in mind, my TC has quite shallow rifling, so I probably had to do less metal removal from the jag than you will. Sorry I can't be more specific.

 

[Rifleman1776]

thx,
Is there a way to know how much to turn them down without shooting and cleaning the powder residue?
I know that when cleaning, it should be harder to pull then push but when sizing it, I have a clean barrel.

Read 30coupe reply. Keep in mind, a little undersized is not a hanging offense, they will still work fine. In this game, making, fitting, fixing things often requires doing some, trying, doing more, trying again often several times.

 

[Britsmoothy]

So, I have a Dixie Gun works 40 cal flint (cub?) kit that I purchased from a Pawn shop a couple years ago and built up. I did not shoot it much the first year cause I was so busy moving. I'm hoping to shoot it more this spring. It came with a jag that was .335 in diameter. The tip was more pointed than cupped (concave for a ball). I purchased a 40 cal jag but it is wayy to big in diameter. I could not push a wet cleaning patch through. Jag was about .370 diameter

I chucked it up in a drill and layed it down onto a file and got it down to .350 in the middle and .340 at the lower (tip) part.

Is this common to have to reduce a 40 cal jag?

Barrel is stamped Pedersoli on it as well as Dixie Gun works Union City Tennessee

Be mindful that most .40" jags are for contemporary .40" calibres that are nominally around .410".
A designated 10mm Jag may be closer to your needs.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Are you sure it's not a 36?

 

[Melnic]

Are you sure it's not a 36?

I had originally thought that but the balls I originally shot from it were .375 and it says CAL .40 right there on the top of the barrel.
I just cast a bunch of .390 balls this weekend for it. The .390 balls will drop in and fall back out w/o a patch.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I just cast a bunch of .390 balls this weekend for it. The .390 balls will drop in and fall back out w/o a patch.

That is a bit risky, buying a mould and casting a bunch of balls without knowing fer certain/fer sure if they are the size your rifle will perform best with. But, it sounds like you are off to a good start. Let us know how it shoots.

 

[Melnic]

That is a bit risky, buying a mould and casting a bunch of balls without knowing fer certain/fer sure if they are the size your rifle will perform best with. But, it sounds like you are off to a good start. Let us know how it shoots.

The .390 mold came with the kit when I got it from the pawn shop along with the .375 balls that were in a baggie,Some small lubed patches, some extra flints and leather for the Jaws. I remember when shooting the .375 balls that they went down REALLY easy. I have some different patches to use so I'll start with the thinnest one I have first. I had been reading up on slugging a muzzleloader but was trying to figure out the best way to do it for the first time. For my 1863 springfield, I just took an oversized minie and then drilled a screw into it then inserted and twised and pulled it out. I don't have a 40 cal anything to try that with.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I had been reading up on slugging a muzzleloader but was trying to figure out the best way to do it for the first time.

There are a couple ways you can approach this. You can find other posts on this forum about this with a search.
But, I suggest you buy some .440" balls and some .445" balls made from soft lead. Take a large hunk of the patch you expect to use and with a long/short starter (about 2-3") push a ball into the bore then pull back out. There should be fabric and rifling impressions all around the waist of the ball. If it was not overly difficult to push in you probably have a good fit. If too loose do the same with the larger ball. Another way, secure about a two foot length of 3/8" brass rod and drop into the bore. Then, again, partially seat a patched ball. Turn the rifle muzzle down and pump rifle up and down so the heavy brass rod acts as a knocker and pushes out the ball. Again, examine for patch/rifling marks. Try with a couple sizes. When you have decided which ball you believe is best, start shooting from a rest at 50 yards and let the results on paper tell you fer certain fer sure.

 

[bigted]

It is not unusual to have to turn them down. I don't have a 40 cal., but I have done it on a jag for my TC Hawken 50 cal. because I want to be able to use the jag to swipe the barrel. As mine came, it was too tight with a cleaning patch to go down the barrel without pushing all the crud to the bottom with it. I want it loose enough to go down with little to no resistance, then bunch up the patch at the bottom and PULL the crud out.

I use a 54 cal jag for my 58 Enfield. I use a single patch and it slips down bore easy and a bit heavier coming out of a fouled barrel. After I get most of the heavy stuff out, I use a doubled cleaning patch for really getting into the nooks n crannys for the cleaning for storing. I then use a clean double patch with my ball/patch lube and slather it on the inside of the bore and then use the still lubed patch to rub down all the outside parts.