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Needle Threading for Old Folks

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This is suggested for those of us who are getting long in the tooth and failing eyes. It may be common knowledge already but was new to me.
I use Victor's waxed linen thread # 5 and it's difficult to get it through the needles eye. I have found that I put the end of the thread on my worktable and give it a good tap which flattens it out and it becomes very easy to thread through the needles eye. Sure makes it easier for this old coot.
now I rely like that.
 
Somewhere, packed away, I have several original or copies of the U.S. Army Saddlers Manuals from 1859 through 1942, and it is very interesting to see the techniques and diagrams of tools and methods that they worked with.

Here's some info that might be of use, excerpts from the U.S. Army Saddlers Manual TM 10-430 27 March, 1942. Tools and methods had changed very little between 1859 and 1942. Great photos and detailed techniques, including the making of thread (any diameter/cords) from ball flax, and the making of waxed ends. For threading techniques, check out paragraphs #7 through #10.
TM 10-430 Saddlers Manual

The manual (24 pages) is available as a paperback reprint through Schuler Books, printed on an EBM Machine for $8.
I have had them print various manuals, books, and publications in the past and the quality is excellent for the price.
Schuler Books TM 10-430
 
I've been using 6 strand linen and finding it a bit thick. Any suggestions on a needle that is a good fit?

I have about a mile of it and sure would like to use it. :)
Here is a photo of 6 cord left twist flax linen thread, tapered and threaded through the eye of a 1/0 harness needle.
IMG_20220510_105644_735.jpg

Here is a photo of various linen threads from 3 cord to 6 cord. All are unwaxed and can either be used for hand sewing or use in a needle/awl machine with a wax pot. The small box threads is the way they used to package linen flax shoe thread for making your own thread. A strand is 1 cord, and you just pull off how ever many cords you need to make 2 cord to 8 cord thread. You have to wax each thread then twist either left or right hand, then wax again for a finished length of thread. You can find it on eBay or Etsy from time to time, but they don't make it any more.
IMG_20220510_104629_884.jpg
 
I need to check my needles for their size. I buy them at tandy and they seem to have only two sizes.
 
I need to check my needles for their size. I buy them at tandy and they seem to have only two sizes.

Besides flattening/tapering the ends of the threads cords, the angles shown cut on the ends make it much easier much easier to thread the needles as well. Just pointing this out for some folks who may not know.

1652227621017.png


Gus
 
Fly fishermen use a magnetic tipit threader. It may work...I use them to help tie my line to the fly.
I have one of those and have used it -- though I don't really need to, so it just sits in my bag. For flies, they work well because of how they align the eye with the monofilament "channel". But also just search for things like "needle threader". Umqua makes one that's very simple and versatile and sells for around $6.00. But there are a bunch of others.
 
To stop your needle unthreading. Thread and pull a few inches thru'. Split the threaded end with the needle and pull it thru'. Pull the main thread back until the split thread is back to the eye and tighten.Shorten the tag end to about 11/2" and your ready to go.. I make dozens of Bridle leather Dog Leads and use J.James needles from Abbey in Wallsall,U.K and their Pre-wax twist or braided thread.. . O.D.
 
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I should have mentioned in my other reply.
I didn't just dream up tapering the ends.
I learned it from a guy who used to go by "cordwainer," and now goes by "the cap gun kid ," usually found on the ALR.
He and @Artificer directed me to a book by Al Stohlman, The Art of Hand Sewing Leather.

Using larger needles, or needles with larger eyes just makes it harder to pull through the hole in the leather, or makes one need a bigger hole. If one drills the holes, the whole can't close around the thread properly, or keep the thread running in the correct direction for a proper looking stitch, as opposed to poking the holes with a diamond shaped awl.
 
I should have mentioned in my other reply.
I didn't just dream up tapering the ends.
I learned it from a guy who used to go by "cordwainer," and now goes by "the cap gun kid ," usually found on the ALR.
He and @Artificer directed me to a book by Al Stohlman, The Art of Hand Sewing Leather.

Using larger needles, or needles with larger eyes just makes it harder to pull through the hole in the leather, or makes one need a bigger hole. If one drills the holes, the whole can't close around the thread properly, or keep the thread running in the correct direction for a proper looking stitch, as opposed to poking the holes with a diamond shaped awl.
For what it's worth, my Great -----Gran'father was listed as a "cordwainer" (a worker in Kid & Calf skin. Maker of ladies bag and pumps) in Leicester in 1754. O.d.
 
For what it's worth, my Great -----Gran'father was listed as a "cordwainer" (a worker in Kid & Calf skin. Maker of ladies bag and pumps) in Leicester in 1754. O.d.

With sincere respect and for those who don't know, your ancestor was a lot more than that. A cordwainer would take measurements of a customer's foot, make or adjust a last to fit that person only, and create footwear that fit so well there was no need of special "orthopedic" shoes that we have nowadays. IOW, his craft was elevated into an "Arte and Mystery."

A cobbler was only a person who might repair footwear or make much more crude footwear. IOW, it was "the more brutish side of the trade."

Gus
 
With sincere respect and for those who don't know, your ancestor was a lot more than that. A cordwainer would take measurements of a customer's foot, make or adjust a last to fit that person only, and create footwear that fit so well there was no need of special "orthopedic" shoes that we have nowadays. IOW, his craft was elevated into an "Arte and Mystery."

A cobbler was only a person who might repair footwear or make much more crude footwear. IOW, it was "the more brutish side of the trade."

Gus
Thanks for your input Gus. I did not unfold the "mystory's" of Cordwaining as I was pushed for time but Thomas went on to leave Leics for Birmingham.Whilst he was a land owner he was automatically a Freeman of Lecestershire,but he was not a metalworking Guildesman so could not carry on his new business as a Silver Plated Wire Drawer.I still have 3 small spools of .008" plated embroidery wire. The core is Copper!! Birmingham was already an Open City as it was a Lordship with "then" No Mayor or Corporation hence "The City of a Thousand Trades".. OLD DOG..
 
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