Neutralizing Cold Blue?

[schuetzenisbestBP]

i just blued my flintlock. corrosion started forming so after research I soaked my barrel in baking soda and water to stop the bluing process.
Are there any other ways to stop bluing process completely without any special products?

 

[TDM]

What did the instructions say on the bottle?

 

[schuetzenisbestBP]

What did the instructions say on the bottle?

cold water. it seems to not be working great though as it's still corroding.

 

[64Springer]

Cold Blue and rinse with water.

Dry and rub down with oil.

 

[schuetzenisbestBP]

Cold Blue and rinse with water.

Dry and rub down with oil.

which oil? gun oil? canola oil? vegetable oil? motor oil?

 

[R Ellis]

gun oil

 

[TDM]

cold water. it seems to not be working great though as it's still corroding.

That’s the correct method, but as said, the part(s) need to be liberally coated with oil, 30wt motor oil is fine, really doesn’t make too much difference as long as the oil adheres to the surface. Needs to sit like that overnight for best results.

 

[J2shortt]

I've always DRENCHED my parts in oil after a good cold water bath. Usually the cold blue surface finish is quite fragile before soaking in oil. It's almost like the leftover bluing would wipe off until it soaked up some oil overnight. After that it became much more durable. Not salt bluing durable, but much better than when it was dry before the oil bath.

 

[schuetzenisbestBP]

That’s the correct method, but as said, the part(s) need to be liberally coated with oil, 30wt motor oil is fine, really doesn’t make too much difference as long as the oil adheres to the surface. Needs to sit like that overnight for best results.

after sitting in oil overnight, is there anything else to do? will I need to continuously soak it in oil annually or is it a one and done thing?

 

[pacanis]

Just to add, I've always used non-detergent oil. I saw it recommended somewhere.
I submerse the parts, but that might not be as easy on a long barrel. Just keep it drenched.

 

[schuetzenisbestBP]

Just to add, I've always used non-detergent oil. I saw it recommended somewhere.
I submerse the parts, but that might not be as easy on a long barrel. Just keep it drenched.

how long? it's been overnight.

 

[pacanis]

Overnight.
But to be honest this has been with salt bath bluing and rust bluing.
I don't do anything with cold bluing other than oil it up when done. I've never had ongoing corrosion. I only use Oxpho Blue if that makes a difference.

 

[TDM]

after sitting in oil overnight, is there anything else to do? will I need to continuously soak it in oil annually or is it a one and done thing?

You should be good to go and have no further issues.

 

[TommyG]

WINDEX!!! The stuff with amonia in it. Works great. Works great for neutralizing when browning or greying a barrel too. I also use only Oxpho blue. One thing I noticed with Oxpho is you need to use acetone as opposed to alcohol to prep, also no bare hands when prepping or applying, use vinyl gloves. I have experienced flash rusting from both the use of alcohol for prep and also with bare hands handling when prepping.

 

[wiscoaster]

There's a bunch of different cold blue formulas, very likely they use different processes to oxidize iron. Any one neutralizing method won't work equally well for all. You need to check with the specific product directions.

 

[schuetzenisbestBP]

You should be good to go and have no further issues.

thank you so much!

 

[ZUG]

Most if not all cold blue solutions are acid based so you will need a mild base to neutralize them - such as ammonia and water, baking soda and water etc. Apply it to your parts then rinse off and apply your favorite gun oil liberally let stand overnight then wipe off. Done -

 

[wiscoaster]

.... and apply your favorite gun oil liberally let stand overnight then wipe off. Done -

I'm curious: that's exactly what I've been doing for cold bluing, but many (most) of the rust browning videos I've watched, plus the Laurel Mountain Forge instructions, say to use boiled linseed oil (or wax in that case). Is there a crucial difference I should be aware of between the two methods of making an iron oxide and the means of neutralizing the process? ie: one is a petroleum product and the other is a plant product.

 

[ZUG]

I've used a paste wax, light machine oil, car engine oil, don't have any BLO so I can't say how it works but a friend of mine who does blacksmithing use it on his forged stuff. I think they all work if you get the cold blue neutralized first.