New 1851 Navy

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sequoia

40 Cal.
Joined
Mar 8, 2005
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I just purchased a new 1851 Navy from Cabela's. It's been a while since I purchased a new gun. What's the best way to clean off the packing grease of the gun, do I have to disassemble the weapon completly? Also, in the Pietti manual it says that the max load is 12 gr. but the Cabelas manual says that max load is 22 gr.. Which is correct?
 
Is it the steel frame or the brass frame like the one i received today? I just took a cloth and wiped mine down good to get all the excess oil off and then greased the cylinder pin. After i fire it some i will strip it down and clean all the internals too. As for a load, if it is a steel frame you can go to 35 or so grs. If brass i would stick to between 20-30 with 25 being a good load if it shoots accurate. My brass framed one had a paper in the box that said max load of 25 grs.
 
Years ago Pietta printed the 12 grain charge recommendation in their paperwork for their revolvers. Why they did this I'm not sure, as it takes more than 12 grains to seat the balls when using the loading lever on the guns. That's because black powder works best when compacted, unlike smokeless.

A .44 revolver should work with 20-35 grains, and the big Colt Dragoons can take even more (up to 60 in the case of the Walker). A .36 Navy will work well with 20-25 grains.

Have fun and Happy Holidays!

Dave
 
Mike Brooks said:
All I can get in my .36 navies is about 26gr. I usually shoot about 18 to 20 gr.

:redface: Yeah, you're right...still on my first cup of coffee this morning and read the line for .44's out of the manual. My Walker uses 52 grains, a wonder wad and a .454 ball, so I probably had that on the brain :redface: , so thanks for straightening me out :thumbsup: as I don't mean to type wrong info in an attempt to help folks :hatsoff:

Dave
 
You didn't say if it was a .36 or .44 cal Navy. If it .36 then 20 to 25 grains works well. If it is .44 then 25 to 30 is good. These numbers are for steel framed guns, if it is brass dial it back by 5 grains in each caliber.

Don
 
I bought the Navy that Cabela's sells with the fake Ivory grips about a year ago.I used 15 grns. because I bought the flask at the same time and that's what came with it.That charged worked great.The ball was hitting about 2" high at about 30 yrds.
 
On a percussion revolver you will normally get the best accuracy if the ball is seated just below the end of the cylinder- In other words you don't want the ball way down into the cylinder where it has to travel a bit before going into the barrel. Now, on any black powder gun you MUST seat the ball without any dead air space between the powder and the ball. The nature of black powder is such that you could blow up or damage the gun if there is any dead air space.
Now some folks like a light powder charge for target practice- say 10-12 grains. When that small a charge of powder is used the normal thing to do is add some filler over the powder for the sole purpose of taking up space in the chamber so that the ball is closer to the end of the cylinder. Cream of Wheat cereal is a very common filler. Once again the ball must be seated firmly. The sequence is powder, cream of wheat, the ball- the ball being rammed down until you feel it firmly seated.
After the ball is seated the normal practice is to cover the ends of the chambers with some form of grease- a lot of folks use Crisco shortening. Next cap the nipples and you are ready to fire the gun.
If you use more powder- say 20-22 grains, then the ball is close enough to the end of the chamber that the Cream of Wheat filler is omitted. In this case you put in the powder, then the ball- seat it firmly, then fill the chamber ends with Crisco, then cap the nipples.
A lot of folks get tired of messing with Crisco- greasy fingers, etc. Instead of the Crisco you can use wads- home made or store bought. Lubed, store bought wads would be best to start. The wads are pretty thick and take up a fair amount of room in the chamber so if you use wads the powder charge ought to be around 18 grains ( all these charges are assuming the gun is 36 caliber). In this case you put in the powder charge, then the pre-lubed wad, then the ball, ramming the ball down until it seats firmly. No Crisco is needed, just cap the nipple and you are good to go.
 
If its a Brass frame go with a light load. Back in the early 60s I bought a brass frame 51'. I did not know how weak they were back then. After a few weeks of shooting the frame failed, the barrel fell off. Lesson learned. :cursing:
 
I should have specified that it was a steel frame. 20-25 gr. sounds about right. I'll be using a wonder wad under the ball when I shoot. When I bought the pistol I decided to make a holster for it. Before I was finished I made a set of cross draw slimjims, a belt and a belt pouch. Sort of got carried away. One of these days I'll get around to posting some pics. Thanks for the advice.
 
Here's my babies.
Pietta01.jpg


I made this. Been leathercrafting for a year or so.
Oxblood01.jpg

Oxblood02.jpg

Oxblood03.jpg
 
Will you be using black powder or a substitute like Pyrodex? With BP, 25 grains should be the max load. With Pyrodex, 20 grains. I'd lighten either load to perhaps 20 and 15. The brass frame pistol will just last longer!
 
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