New Builder - Kibler Colonial Long Rifle Kit

[Monk]

I’m filing it fush, then cleaning up the surrounding wood from the file marks that you probably will leave around the barrel Tang area…. Hope this helps

Excellent, I like that idea, perhaps very slightly recessed on mine.

 

[Monk]

When you’re doing your final sanding be sure to sand smooth then apply water to whisker up or raise the grain/fibers of the wood, then dry it off (I use a heat gun) and repeat this step until the wood remains smooth after dampening and drying. This will leave you with a very smooth finish and you won’t have as many rough spots when finished. I initially sand with 220grit then use 300 grit to remove the whisker/raised grain.

Great tip!
Handled 90% of the sanding this weekend, but will go back and repeat with your suggestion.

 

[Monk]

After lots of hours sanding with detail Sanders and sandpaper wrapped around little files, the brass hardware from your kit will be ready. Lots of the coping details will be lost during the heavy filing required to mate the wood to metal, remove the gates, and to clean everything up from the sand casting.

With small Jeweler files you can reestablish the lines very clean. I suggest you stay away from a Dremel tool unless you're way better with it than I am. LOL

I kind of like the a final finish left by fine grey Scotch Brite, and a little Jaxs Brown to make the coping details stand out. In a few weeks the white brass will start to get that nice yellow mustard color on its own.
View attachment 209680

Wow, that is a standard to aim for!
I started on the butt plate this weekend, matching it to the stock, and filing the patch box opening to fit.
You've given me new inspiration to hold a higher standard.

When you say "detail Sanders" do you mean power sanders, or elbow power?
Fair amount of material to remove from the casting "gates".

 

[Freedom]

https://www.lumbertonstore.com/?gcl...LiyJR5EWxTK5kZ-nTj9gObVQbOT0dlkBoC1yQQAvD_BwE
Here you go. And thank you for the compliments.

I do the heavy brass work with files.
Then wrap the files with a succession of sandpaper grits. Starting with 120 and finishing around 600 .. when all done I brush back with fine Gray Scotch-Brite.
The little details sanders come in really handy in the hard to reach places.

 

[Monk]

Super cool!
Did you buy the "Fine Kit"?

 

[Freedom]

Super cool!
Did you buy the "Fine Kit"?

I bought the five piece.. the red through black. 120 through 500 Grit with a few extra belts.

 

[Monk]

Super, ordered.
Thank you!

 

[buckleymarka56]

Great tip!
Handled 90% of the sanding this weekend, but will go back and repeat with your suggestion.

When I started setting the parts to see how they fit. Only major sanding was the wood above the tang. Used a angled drill, ( harbor freight angled drill) with a sanding pad, marked the wood I needed to reduce. And went to town, so to speak. Once to pencil marks, re checked and rest by hand.

 

[davec2]

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/kibler-colonial-kit-assembled.132856/

 

[TDM]

Your doing a fine job @Monk, it will turn out nice.

 

[oreclan]

Questions - Kibler Colonial Long Rifle Kit

Intro:
So I started my first introduction to flintlocks and building rifles of wood and metal last weekend.
I live in Maine and am a SIG-trained armorer in pistols and rifles, a business owner, and also work in emergency medicine. I say that by way of introduction, so if some of my questions seem very basic, you'll perhaps excuse me as one not fully conversant yet in the muzzleloader world.

I have taken my time with this kit, the first one that I have built.
I found the part quality and attention to detail remarkably high, with excellent videos from Jim on Youtube.
Though I have watched the majority of the videos, I have some questions about technique and assembly.

Seeking:
I'm hoping that I can find someone who has built one or more of these kits, and can offer some feedback and experience to help me do my best with this build. A kindly mentor, who doesn't mind a few questions as things go forward, would be ideal.

Photos:
Sorry, I did not shoot close-up photos, only general ones, but will include those here.

Current status:
Trigger and trigger guard installed and drilled for pins.
Trigger freeplay tested and set, lock operation tested.
Barrel installed and pin holes drilled with the supplied guide kit.
Lock installed (did encounter some difficulty with aligning the rearmost screw through the stock into the lock.

Needed (other than wood finishing):
Fit patch box cover
Install sights, see question below
File off "gates" from brass butt stock cover

Questions:
Rear Tang - Should that be flush with wood, or slightly proud of it?
Mine is the thickness of a piece of paper above.
I am not an experienced woodworker, and I wonder if I should attempt this and get a small, sharp chisel.

Brass - Ramrod tubes, trigger guard, and other brass accessories; what is the best way to finish?
It is slightly dull now. Should that be polished, and if so, what should be done to prevent it from oxidizing (or doesn't brass oxidize?)

Filing Brass - Where the gates are to be filed off the brass, is there a way to do, with a file, I am assuming, that doesn't leave a surface that doesn't match the rest of the casting? In other words, should it be polished on a wheel or so?

Retaining Pins - am unclear how to finish these; just below the wood surface, flush, are the holes to be filled, or left open?

Sights - Conventional training at SIG taught me to install parts from the left to the right. Is this correct with the sights? How does one get the front sight to be the correct width and match the angles of the barrel contour? Do you install, center, and scribe it?

Patchbox - My patch box cover it longer than the spring, so the spring will not seat. What is the best way to uniformly remove the excess length? What type of saw or sanding?

Finishing Wood :
My other questions involve wood stock finishing, but I can mention those once the mechanical fitment is done.

Thanks for your time, and gracious replies; I look forward to learning more.

- Bruce

Jim Kibler has You Tube videos covering all of these issues.

 

[Tn poor boy]

I’m surprised no one has chimed in on this yet. Have you tried the search feature? Maybe post this to the flintlock page, there is always talk on there about Kibler kits. I just finished my first ever build, an SMR.

Iv done 3 of these. I had a problem like you where asking about in .what I did back bolt wouldn't go in line so I took drivel small bit drill it out just a bit works fine no problem

 

[buckleymarka56]

Iv done 3 of these. I had a problem like you where asking about in .what I did back bolt wouldn't go in line so I took drivel small bit drill it out just a bit works fine no problem

I took mine to the gunsmith, he got it fixed and it works well, only issue, due to operator error, not enough flash powder. Primer tube was emptier than I thought. Refilled that with a small horn of 4F and the fire stick went boom again.

 

[Monk]

A Thank You Follow Up

I just wanted to say thank you for those who help me with my first muzzleloader build, and those who encouraged me along the way. I did have a number of questions, that many patiently answered, via email message or phone calls, much appreciated.

Photos below.

I just wanted to do the very best job that I could, and then understand the skills, so I can begin to learn and apply them. I’ve now got another Kibler rifle kit ordered, the Woods Runner, and I’m much more confident in the building of that.

Along the way, I’ve refined my metal filing skills, refined my word finishing skills, and learned a huge amount about the historical construction and design of muzzleloading rifles.

All in all, it’s been a tremendous experience, with a great group of people, who clearly care about keeping traditions and a hobby, alive, and helping those with similar interest.

Warmly,
Monk

Warmly,
Monk.

 

[TDM]

Beautiful rifle!

 

[buckleymarka56]

A Thank You Follow Up

I just wanted to say thank you for those who help me with my first muzzleloader build, and those who encouraged me along the way. I did have a number of questions, that many patiently answered, via email message or phone calls, much appreciated.

Photos below.

I just wanted to do the very best job that I could, and then understand the skills, so I can begin to learn and apply them. I’ve now got another Kibler rifle kit ordered, the Woods Runner, and I’m much more confident in the building of that.

Along the way, I’ve refined my metal filing skills, refined my word finishing skills, and learned a huge amount about the historical construction and design of muzzleloading rifles.

All in all, it’s been a tremendous experience, with a great group of people, who clearly care about keeping traditions and a hobby, alive, and helping those with similar interest.

Warmly,
Monk

Warmly,
Monk.




View attachment 221368

Stock looks great

 

[BillyC]

Looks very nice, something g to be proud of for sure

 

[Pete G]

Only problem I can see is that your work area is way too clean!

 

[James Kibler]

That's super nice!

 

[scratcherky]

Excellent job on your rifle. It is beautiful. I am thinking of ordering a Woodsrunner kit.