New Dutch Fowler

[petlis]

Ok all I just sent out the balance of what I owed on a Dutch fowler.A Jackie Brown in the white Dutch fowler.It will have iron hardware with a maple stock,46'' swamped barrel 20 ga.with a L&R Jaeger lock.I'm so excited I can hardly contain myself!!! :grin:
What I want to ask you all is what would be the best PC finish for this gun?
I was thinking that the stock be stained dark very dark(what stain???) and then maybe a linseed oil finish with a bee's wax top coating.Than charcoal bluing the barrel and other iron parts would this be PC or would I be better off aging the iron with a cold blue followed with a bleach bath or maybe a mustard mud pack?I want it to look like it has been used but not abused.The time period I'm playing in is 1750ish
Any input from this crowd would be greatly appreciated thanks. I'm looking forward to your input and ideas...Pete :thumbsup:

 

[Swampman]

I would would age the iron with a cold blue followed with a bleach bath and forget the mustard. I'd also forget the bee's wax.

 

[petlis]

why no bee's wax.I thought this would help keep moisture out of the wood...Pete

 

[Swampman]

It will remain sticky in my experience.

 

[Kuckus]

Mark,
How many coats of blue (and what brand) do you usually put on? I assume you steel wool between coats and then finally bleach when dry? I have really enjoyed some of the pics of the muskets you have posted in the past! "Tastefully Weathered" but not overdone. :thumbsup:

 

[Swampman]

I coat of Birchwood Caseys, let it dry, spray it down with bleach several times and keep it wet for at least 45 minutes. Keep the chemicals out of the bore and off any bearing surfaces. I paint screw threads and shanks with clear fingernail polish before I start. Steel wool and repeat if necessary.

A more controlable (but harder)method is to brown the parts with LMF browning solution and let it sit for 3-4 days. Then steel wool it off.

 

[Itegorm]

Something I have used in the past that makes an excellant top coat over straight linseed oil is to take a cake of beeswax (I usually use about 2-4 ounces) and add as much turpintine as it takes to get the wax to "disolve" (you will get a really odd milky yellow liquid) then mix with an equal amount of linseed oil. It works great and will help keep moisture out of the wood and can easily be reapplyed without any problems. As for the barrel try a light cold bluing and wipe off just as it starts to turn colors. Alternately you could just leave the barrel alone and let it turn color it's self naturally. You would be suprised how quickly the steel will color with a bit of use. I have a gun I built about a year and a half ago that I left bright and after 1 1/2 years of hoonest woods use (hunting, sleeping out, a bit of rain, dropped in a snow bank, 12 pounds of powder fired, a bit of squirrel, turkey, deer and goose blood) it is turning a very nice gray brown color.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

I use Howard's Feed-N-Wax (which is bees wax and orange oil) 1:1 with bees wax, bring to heat and mix well. Goes on very easy and burnishes (just buffing and polishing doesn't work for me) out with hard wool felt to a great finish. I apply several coats, burnishing each one.

 

[TRIN]

Does anybody have Jackie Brown's contact info or website?
Thanks Trinity

 

[Claude Mathis]

Does anybody have Jackie Brown's contact info or website?
Thanks Trinity

You might check his Forum profile.

 

[Cheyenne]

Does anybody have Jackie Brown's contact info or website?
Thanks Trinity

[url] http://www.jackiebrowngunmaker.com[/url] :thumbsup:

 

[jbrowngunmaker]

:grin: You can also reach me at my shop number at (662)396-4039.