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New Flintlock
- Thread starter kb
- Start date
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kb I own both of those rifles mentioned my lyman werent worth its weight till i put an L&R lock on It I have shot hundred yard just over 1 inch groups with it. the blue ridge lock and trigger are excellent the rifle is extremely easy to shoot offhand and very accurate the front sight on mine had to be filed about half way down all I have ever shot is prb thru her. took a dawg coyote and a hefty doe last winter hope thats some help
weasel
those who can do those who can't inline
weasel
those who can do those who can't inline
In the .54 I would suspect the shallower rifling in 1/48 might limit the range of loads one could use, My LGP was a good shooter with rb (caplock) I had an American version of the Blue ridge in .45 cal flinter it seems to me it might be a bit uncomfortable in the larger cal? also if PC is an issue the LGP is the most accurate of the two. Weasle...what cal was your Blue ridge? I have heard both ways on the flintlocks on both of these guns, now if all you are hunting is deer then a .50 might be a choice and may work better with the shallow grooves in the BR. If you go for the Lyman try Mid south shooters supply, much cheaper than anyone else.
My guess is that mine was an isolated case, a slip up in the QC. Every one else I've talked to with a Pedersoli has had no problems. I've got all the problems corrected except the slow ignition and that may be corrected with the new Green Mountain liner I put in, haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. In a 54 I would recommend the Lyman GPR for PRB only because of the slower twist, the heavier the ball the less it likes a fast twist. Only my opinion, still your choice, you have to live with it and you are the one spending the money. Look them both over real good and figure out which one feels the best to you, then go for it, you only have to please you. Take care, Rick.
Although I don't own one of the guns we are talking about here, I do own a .54 T/C Hawken which has a 1/48 twist (hand lapped by yours truely) and I do shoot round ball in her.
Now, I'm not shooting a full hunting load but with a .530 ball, .015 patch lubed with T/C Bore Butter (read Wonder Lube in a different container) and 75 grains FFg she will outshoot most of my high dollar guns.
I doubt that a few more grains (like 15) to get up to a load that will take down a buffalo would make much difference in accuracy.
Now everyone who shoots Black Powder knows that each gun needs its own "special" load for super accuracy and that can only be found by trying different combinations of ball, patch and powder, BUT what I'm getting at is the 1/48 twist works great in at least one .54 I know of.
Now, I'm not shooting a full hunting load but with a .530 ball, .015 patch lubed with T/C Bore Butter (read Wonder Lube in a different container) and 75 grains FFg she will outshoot most of my high dollar guns.
I doubt that a few more grains (like 15) to get up to a load that will take down a buffalo would make much difference in accuracy.
Now everyone who shoots Black Powder knows that each gun needs its own "special" load for super accuracy and that can only be found by trying different combinations of ball, patch and powder, BUT what I'm getting at is the 1/48 twist works great in at least one .54 I know of.
Jack Walker
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2003
- Messages
- 117
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I own two pedersoli rifles, a modified blue ridge and the indian trade musket; a new one from pedersoli. I have never had a problem with either one, and in my opinion you cannot buy a better off the rack rifle!
Roundball, That's the one. Everyone I've talked to that has used that line has nothing but praise for it, even the die hard flinters that swear by the old style liners. I may get a chance to get out and shoot it next weekend, this weekend is all tied up with hunting. Have to set your priorities, nothing gets in the way of hunting bambie. Take care, Rick.
Then you'll love it...I have it on all my TC flintlocks and it's as fast as lightning !
In addition, you can leave your vent pick in the bag because you'll never use it with these liners.
There's no bored "tunnel"...simply a .030" thick stainless wall with a large .075" hole in it, so there's nothing for fouling or clinkers to set up in...an unintended result is that they're self
cleaning
In addition, you can leave your vent pick in the bag because you'll never use it with these liners.
There's no bored "tunnel"...simply a .030" thick stainless wall with a large .075" hole in it, so there's nothing for fouling or clinkers to set up in...an unintended result is that they're self
cleaning
Have you done a lot of shooting/reloading in wet/damp weather with the hex type liners? I had one several years ago and found that when the residue got soft and mushy that while the pan was easy to wipe the hex area was a real pain to wipe out the soft mush, I have found the flat faced/slightly coned type to work better in wet weather, I have a couple that after installing the screw slot was filed off to flush fit and these are fast with a 5/64 hole..... I gotta real hard time from a PC aspect with that allen wrench setup also (VBG)
I have made a firm decision to stick with a vent hole coned a bit on the inside (no liner) on future guns just to be a bit closer to the way the originals were, I may be devolving to the point that I will soon be killing things with a stick.
quote:Originally posted by tg:
I have made a firm decision to stick with a vent hole coned a bit on the inside (no liner) on future guns just to be a bit closer to the way the originals were.You could get a muzzleloader made to any P.C. standard, research all the hardware and have everything "JUST RIGHT" and it's still not truely P.C.
The use of modern steel is never going to allow this to happen, what you need to do is to have the barrel and hardware made to the smelting standards of the target date to get a truely P.C. firearm.
It would be a truely unique item, something no one else will have, outside of an original.
I guess modern wood will have to do, unless you have a supply of 250+ year old timber. Wait a second, the USS Constitution (Old Iron Sides) has a supply of P.C. timber...
As far as "killing things with a stick", if you were to tie on a flint point using sinew, you will take a few steps closed towards our time in history.
I have made a firm decision to stick with a vent hole coned a bit on the inside (no liner) on future guns just to be a bit closer to the way the originals were.You could get a muzzleloader made to any P.C. standard, research all the hardware and have everything "JUST RIGHT" and it's still not truely P.C.
The use of modern steel is never going to allow this to happen, what you need to do is to have the barrel and hardware made to the smelting standards of the target date to get a truely P.C. firearm.
It would be a truely unique item, something no one else will have, outside of an original.
I guess modern wood will have to do, unless you have a supply of 250+ year old timber. Wait a second, the USS Constitution (Old Iron Sides) has a supply of P.C. timber...
As far as "killing things with a stick", if you were to tie on a flint point using sinew, you will take a few steps closed towards our time in history.
I guess PC for me is only using real blackpowder,
black english flints...and TC Hawkens at least attempt to conjure up a rough image of a rifle back then, otherwise my basics are pretty much like this:
TC Hawkens (from the "last century")
Goex blackpowder
Black english flints
Hornady round balls
Natural Lube 1000
Prelubed wonderwads
Prelubed pillow ticking patches
Brass and/or stainless ramrods
Pocket priming horns w/3grn dispenser tip
Silva compass
Schrade skinning knives
Case / Remington pocket knives
Maglight flashlights
Synthetic long johns
Thinsulate hunting coats, cap, gloves
GoreTex raingear
Danner field boots
LaCrosse rubber boots
etc, etc...
Not sue what "persona" you'd label that with TG,
but if you ever locate Thinsulate / GoreTex buckskins, by golly I'll wear them !! (vbg)
black english flints...and TC Hawkens at least attempt to conjure up a rough image of a rifle back then, otherwise my basics are pretty much like this:
TC Hawkens (from the "last century")
Goex blackpowder
Black english flints
Hornady round balls
Natural Lube 1000
Prelubed wonderwads
Prelubed pillow ticking patches
Brass and/or stainless ramrods
Pocket priming horns w/3grn dispenser tip
Silva compass
Schrade skinning knives
Case / Remington pocket knives
Maglight flashlights
Synthetic long johns
Thinsulate hunting coats, cap, gloves
GoreTex raingear
Danner field boots
LaCrosse rubber boots
etc, etc...
Not sue what "persona" you'd label that with TG,
but if you ever locate Thinsulate / GoreTex buckskins, by golly I'll wear them !! (vbg)
Personas can be pretty elusive to nail down at times, I feel to each his own as long as false info is not being put forth as fact, I did skin a pair of "Gores" and made a nice pair of moc liners out of them, I can go all day in the rain and my feet are dry as toast.
KB,
My rifle is a Pedersoli Frontier in 50 cal. flint. Same gun as the Cabela Blue Ridge.
Did a lot of research before I bought and there is alot of manure out there.
I resently shot four rounds at about 70-75 yards. Stiched all three shots touching each other, the last shot was 1/2 inch to the right. This is four shots within one and three quarter inches. Good enough for me.
My rifle is a Pedersoli Frontier in 50 cal. flint. Same gun as the Cabela Blue Ridge.
Did a lot of research before I bought and there is alot of manure out there.
I resently shot four rounds at about 70-75 yards. Stiched all three shots touching each other, the last shot was 1/2 inch to the right. This is four shots within one and three quarter inches. Good enough for me.
If your budget is limited I would get the GPR with the 1 in 60 twist. This is a good looking rifle, accurate right out of the box and it can be much improved with a little work and time.
Weasel is right. The lock stinks, but so do most of the other foreign made production guns. L&R makes a replacement lock for the righthand models of the GPR. You definitely need to add this when money permits.
They don't make one for the Left hand models so I had to tune my own. I now have a lock that is friction free with a regular trigger pull almost as light as my set trigger, perfect for hunting with gloves on. You can go to the Lyman website and order replacement parts on line. So if you mess up a tumbler or sear you are not dead in the water.
I also tuned the trigger that came from Lyman. I have since replaced it with a drop in trigger from the R E Davis co.
Both the trigger and lock have burrs and toolmarks which add friction. Because of the labor involved most all production guns will have the same problems.
The stock will need to be sealed to stop swelling when it absorbs moisture.
The vent liner needs replacing or modifying to get consistant ignition. Lyman has not learned this lesson yet. You can buy a better liner from October Country if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself.
The bore either needs lapping or shooting about 200 or so shots to remove the sharp spots.
It can be a very accurate gun that will shoot with some of the high end ones. And it looks real close to real plains rifle.
I have been hunting with my GPR Flintlock for over 5 years now. After doing the formentioned mods, I find it to be a very accurate and pleasant shooting gun. The 32' barrel is just about perfect for deer hunting.
The crescent buttplate is not designed to be shot off the shoulder, it should be held on the upper arm. Don't put your face down hard and low on the cheekpiece. Instead place about your upper jaw on it and keep your head straight up. Get used to doing this and the recoil is less with heavy loads and you can get a quick sight picture.
The sights look more period correct than TC's but I don't like them as much as I do my TC. They seem to have an angle and a little concave radius that refracts light and makes them hard for me to see well, in any condition. So I replaced mine.
For the money the GPR is hard to beat.
Weasel is right. The lock stinks, but so do most of the other foreign made production guns. L&R makes a replacement lock for the righthand models of the GPR. You definitely need to add this when money permits.
They don't make one for the Left hand models so I had to tune my own. I now have a lock that is friction free with a regular trigger pull almost as light as my set trigger, perfect for hunting with gloves on. You can go to the Lyman website and order replacement parts on line. So if you mess up a tumbler or sear you are not dead in the water.
I also tuned the trigger that came from Lyman. I have since replaced it with a drop in trigger from the R E Davis co.
Both the trigger and lock have burrs and toolmarks which add friction. Because of the labor involved most all production guns will have the same problems.
The stock will need to be sealed to stop swelling when it absorbs moisture.
The vent liner needs replacing or modifying to get consistant ignition. Lyman has not learned this lesson yet. You can buy a better liner from October Country if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself.
The bore either needs lapping or shooting about 200 or so shots to remove the sharp spots.
It can be a very accurate gun that will shoot with some of the high end ones. And it looks real close to real plains rifle.
I have been hunting with my GPR Flintlock for over 5 years now. After doing the formentioned mods, I find it to be a very accurate and pleasant shooting gun. The 32' barrel is just about perfect for deer hunting.
The crescent buttplate is not designed to be shot off the shoulder, it should be held on the upper arm. Don't put your face down hard and low on the cheekpiece. Instead place about your upper jaw on it and keep your head straight up. Get used to doing this and the recoil is less with heavy loads and you can get a quick sight picture.
The sights look more period correct than TC's but I don't like them as much as I do my TC. They seem to have an angle and a little concave radius that refracts light and makes them hard for me to see well, in any condition. So I replaced mine.
For the money the GPR is hard to beat.
Jeff Zitzman
Pilgrim
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2003
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
A in 48 twist was designed to accommodate a conical (long bullet) and a round ball. Optimum twist for a round ball would be in the range of 1 in 60 to 1 and 66. Optimum twist for conical bullets would be 1 in 22. As you can see the 48 barrel is a trade off. Both bullets will work but exceptional accuracy will suffer. If you opt for the 48 I would lower my powder charge for round balls and work up a load for long bullets if you have the need.
