new gun for me: Uberti 1851 Navy!

[smoothshooter]

Ok for my .36 I realize "not all the same" 17 Grains Pyrodex, Dry Wad (no lube) lube contaminates the powder. .375 round ball. Far as cleaning Hot to almost boiling water 1 quart water, 1/2 cup simple/mean green degreaser, brushes, patches once scrubbed clean WD-40 to assist in getting rid of water. Wipe off WD-40 then rem-oil. pretty simple.

A grease lubricated wad will not contaminate the powder. Ever.

 

[CVA Enthusiast]

A grease lubricated wad will not contaminate the powder. Ever.

Does and always will. Just FACTS

 

[Blackpowderart]

I had my remington 1858 loaded and capped for 2.5 years with 25gr black powder, factory lubed felt wonder wads and .457 roundball. Took it out couple weeks ago and all 6 went off as expected. If you were going to use it for self defense there is no need for lube for better peace of mind for some because 6 is all your gonna get in a gun fight. No need to worry about anything after that. If you have an extra cylinder you may get 12 shots but any gun can handle that.

 

[Blackpowderart]

I put some slixshot nipples on my new pocket police this week...gonna try it out tomorrow and see how well it fares. I fixed the short arbor and now my barrel/cylinder gap is .004 with the wedge tapped all the way in. I currently grease the arbor with crisco before I shoot but I do want something that won't melt as easily with heat from firing. I also opened the cap channel above and beveled It below to help with caps that may still be on the nipple to not grab the frame as it rotates.

 

[Packrat]

For best accuracy each cylinder should be the same diameter, Ream them all to fit your .380 balls

 

[Blue_Duck_97]

I put some slixshot nipples on my new pocket police this week...gonna try it out tomorrow and see how well it fares. I fixed the short arbor and now my barrel/cylinder gap is .004 with the wedge tapped all the way in. I currently grease the arbor with crisco before I shoot but I do want something that won't melt as easily with heat from firing. I also opened the cap channel above and beveled It below to help with caps that may still be on the nipple to not grab the frame as it rotates.

Of my three cap and ball revolvers, my pocket police is my favorite to shoot. It was bad about jamming with caps before I installed slixshot nipples. It runs fine now as long as I vigorously operate the action. Enjoy!

 

[smoothshooter]

Does and always will. Just FACTS

The “ facts “ as I know them come from years of personal experience.
No, I have not done any chronograph comparisons, but when I fire one or more shots from a percussion revolver after it has been loaded with greased wads for at least 3 months in hot weather, the point of impact, and recoil are the same as if the gun was loaded 5 minutes prior; that’s good enough for me.

 

[Pete453]

BPArt, those are some good looking cartridges, I need to get working on my pocket police, and some cartridges to go with it. What load are you running in yours?

 

[Blackpowderart]

15 to 17grn easy to shoot with pre made cartridge and ted cash strait line capper....I use the crossen cartridge former with arabic gum glue. The same glue colt originals were made with.


Cartridges in this photo are 44 and literally the first paper I have ever made in my life couple weeks ago

 

[Bad Karma]

15 to 17grn easy to shoot with pre made cartridge and ted cash strait line capper....I use the crossen cartridge former with arabic gum glue. The same glue colt originals were made with.


Cartridges in this photo are 44 and literally the first paper I have ever made in my life couple weeks ago

Nice looking catridges !

 

[smoothshooter]

Does and always will. Just FACTS

Contamination does not necessarily mean the affected granules will not ignite.
Does it matter?

 

[Gus Alexander]

First things first, I need to make and post some photos of the revolver!

I picked up a Cimarron imported Uberti 1851 Navy today. It is in .36 caliber. The finish of the revolver looks great. The fit of the wood grips is not so great (wood is proud of the frame in several places). The action is incredibly tight. I don't have feeler gauges, but I can barely see daylight between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone. Overall I'm happy with the looks of the revolver, but I will certainly work on the grips at some point.

Loading was a bit frustrating. I failed to order some slixshot nipples in time to have them on hand today. Initially, I used CCI 10 caps on the stock nipples (because my CCI 11 caps would simply fall off unless I pinched them). Some of the CCI 10 caps would not seat on the nipples (one even split as I tried to seat the cap). I went back to CCI 11 caps and pinched them a bit and had no further issues with caps fitting the stock nipples. After the nipple issue, I discovered my .375 round balls were a bit small for the cylinder. I wasn't getting a shaved ring when seating the .375 balls. And one cylinder would not hold the .375 round ball (it would come back out with the rammer). I swapped the round balls out with some of my .380 conical projectiles made from an Eras Gone bullet mould. I had no issues with the conical projectiles.

Firing the revolver produced some prodigious jams. It seems the action is so tight that any fouling along the face of the cylinder binds the action up. Add in an occasional cap fragment into the mix and the revolver would jam hard.

Lastly, the back of the cylinder only has three safety pins. My other Uberti revolvers (1860 Army and 1862 Pocket Police) all have six or five depending on the model.

With all the above said, I'm happy with the finish of the revolver. I'm hopeful the action will loosen up a bit with more shooting. I think the cap jams will improve with the slixshot nipples installed. I'm not too worried about the missing safety pins, but those missing pins make me wonder who was in charge of quality control when that cylinder came off the line.

Enjoy!

BD

After you shoot, tear it apart & look for scarring. Where parts slide or touch. 1 of mine, the pawl that rotates the cylinder touched the arbor & made it hard to ****. A little filing & it's fine. The area of the pawls slide in the frame. The slides side are round, parts sliding is square & needed a file too. The hammer at the fulcrum had scars from the screws threads & needed a file too.. too much lube on the arbor attracts fouling & that will slow it up some too.. become familiar with the parts by teating it down & buff up any scars with 220grit Emory or finer..

 

[Griff093]

Does and always will. Just FACTS

Your facts do not fit with my experience. Just how "wet" are your lubed wads? They don't have to running with oil to be effective. Mine are barely wetter than dry. No contamination whatsoever. Heck, I've even taken the cylinder out and started cleaning after a day's shooting, running water over the cylinder and begun swabbing out chambers and realized that I'd left one loaded. Reassembled the wet cylinder back in the gun, taken it outside, capped and fired off the loaded chamber... Wet is relative...

 

[Pete453]

Old thread come back to life!
Blue Duck, how are you and your navy getting along? I've decided to reline mine, probably late summer/early fall. I have a couple other shooting projects first.