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bmcgc1960

32 Cal
Joined
Mar 12, 2022
Messages
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Location
Georgia
I bought a Pietta 1851 Navy, .44, brass frame revolver this week. At least that's what Pietta calls it.

I go to the range every couple of months and shoot five different handguns. .22LR, .22WMR, 9mm, .380, .410/45LC.

I wanted to do something different so, I bought the Pietta. I may add a muzzleloader for my wife as well.

I owned a .50 muzzleloader that I used for deer hunting, but I sold that about 35 years ago and have not fired a BP gun since.

The Pietta manual says to use FFF, 12-15g. What type of powder would you recommend?

What is the most accurate way to measure the powder, 12-15g is a pretty small load.
 
Type of powder, black powder. The measure is not that critical so a empty casing like a 38 special will do.
 
I have a Pietta 1851 Navy, though steel frame. Watch where your fired caps end up, and clean the gun THOROUGHLY after every use (including the action). I'm now in the process of rebuilding mine (including a new cylinder and hand) because I was careless about this. If I get it working again I'll probably add a "cap rake" to it. I love the gun -- the balance and feel of it, and it's fun to shoot. But these Colt open frame revolvers have well known use and maintenance issues.
 
Your going to get lots of suggestions, here is just one. Liberally apply lube to the arbor right before shooting. I use bore butter for this. There are lots of choices for lube, just use non-petroleum lube. It’ll keep your cylinder rotating smoothly while shooting many many rounds.
And as far as the lighter loads, there has been a lot said here regarding fillers as an option.
 
I am in middle GA, Warner Robins area,
I clean all my handguns and spent casings in an ultrasonic cleaner.
I was hoping there is a quick and easy speed loader for revolvers. I prefer to shoot outdoors, and I don't want to be measuring/pouring powder when it's windy. We get a lot of wind in my locality.
 
I am in middle GA, Warner Robins area,
I clean all my handguns and spent casings in an ultrasonic cleaner.
I was hoping there is a quick and easy speed loader for revolvers. I prefer to shoot outdoors, and I don't want to be measuring/pouring powder when it's windy. We get a lot of wind in my locality.

paper cartridges
 
I am in middle GA, Warner Robins area,
I clean all my handguns and spent casings in an ultrasonic cleaner.
I was hoping there is a quick and easy speed loader for revolvers. I prefer to shoot outdoors, and I don't want to be measuring/pouring powder when it's windy. We get a lot of wind in my locality.
Extra cylinders.

What is the effect of that cleaner on a revolver's internal lubrication?
 
I clean all my handguns and spent casings in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Not sure what that will contribute to cleaning a BP revolver, or what the need for it there would be. But I haven't tried it.
bmcgc1960 said:
I was hoping there is a quick and easy speed loader for revolvers. I prefer to shoot outdoors, and I don't want to be measuring/pouring powder when it's windy. We get a lot of wind in my locality.
A "speed loader for a BP revolver"? Well, I guess I can imagine one. But any "speed" loading would seem to involve taking out the cylinder. In terms of throwing the charge. I just throw mine (for rifles and pistol) out of my brass powder flask with the appropriate spout. I DO check what a particular spout throws before I do this -- and have discovered some significant discrepancy with how some are labeled (like almost 5 gr difference!).

Otherwise, you're only dollars away: e.g., Traditions Revolver Loading stand
 
Thats the recommended amount from the gun manufacturer.
A gap between 10-15 grains of 3f powder and the round ball will probably not explode your gun. Conventional wisdom amongst black powder shooters is always having the projectile firmly pressed against the powder charge. In that gun, like most cap/ball revolvears, the rammer will not seat the ball properly with that small of a charge. Pietta should say that in their manual.
I shoot the same gun as yours with either 30gr fffg, a lubed wad and then the ball. Or 20 grains fffg, then 10 grains by volume of grits, then a wad and then ball. Both are very accurate in my gun.
Some will say 30 grains is too much for the brass frame guns. The stretching thing. For me, I have not seen any stretching shooting 30 grains.
You will probably also read about the importance of loading the ball as close to the top of the chamber as possible for better accuracy. But without any gap Between powder and ball.
 
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Thought a 44 was recommended at about 28 gr and 36 cal 18 gr?

Pretty much have to shoot those things outside by the way. If you figure out a speedier way than cartridges, let us all know please. Not even clost to a single action revolver speed load. You have a minimum of two steps, insert paper cartridge and cap the cylinder. Minimum twice as long as a revolver. More like 4x or more for me......
 
I shoot the same gun as yours with either 30gr fffg, a lubed wad and then the ball. Or 20 grains fffg, then 10 grains by volume of grits, then a wad and then ball. Both are very accurate in my gun.
I was shooting mine mostly with 20gr FFg, and no wad or filler. Crisco over the ball. I did shoot it with 30gr. and that was fine. But just for plinking, the 20gr. was fun. Depends on how serious you want to be. The sights are pretty much of a hoot in any event. Once I get the time to get it working again, I'll probably use the 20 gr. around here to frighten the squirrels, although they probably won't be frightened much.
 
About 20 years ago I started wearing bifocals and my ability to hit a softball and accurately aim a firearm went into the toilet.

So I drink beverages at softball games and cheer, and don't worry about competitive shooting.

Shooting is just a hobby. shooting, reloading, cleaning, all a part of the experience for me.
 
Before I had my "cataract" surgery (IOLs), I'd worn bifocals for about ... well ... over 30 years. Fairly early on, however, I decided that I needed three pairs of glasses to do what I wanted to: (1) Bifocals for "normal, everyday" wear, (2) single prescription lenses for "anything within arms reach" (which meant mostly computer work and playing music), and (3) "sports" glasses -- not special frames, but regular frames with single prescription lenses for doing things like tennis, kayaking, etc. Was that expensive? Well, yeah. But I didn't have to update/upgrade the single prescription pairs very frequently, and I got frames that lasted well. In general the "distance lenses" worked well for shooting. I couldn't manage to wear contact lenses (mostly a "dry eye") issue, and progressives were never an option for me because they just don't have the optical quality I desire, and I knew they'd drive me crazy anyway. :rolleyes:
 
Good idea. people who wear glasses because they have to wear glasses don't see the cost as an expense, they see thee coast as a necessity.
 

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