I used BC tru-oil on my first traditions KY kit when I was 12. I thought it was good, but I was 12 and had just been bitten! I like a medium stock myself and sneaking up on it would seem the best way to get just the right tint!
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New guy question
- Thread starter Dandyfunk
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I like a dark or medium dark stain for gunstocks. Something even with a redish tint. Not light stains but sometimes a light stain does look good if it looks aged.
Billnpatti
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The particular screw that you asked about is called a clean out screw. The part into which both it and the nipple screw is called the bolster.
The term Mountain Rifle refers to a style of rifle. One of the best example of a mountain rifle is a Hawken (real Hawken) rifle. They were shorter than the Kentucky rifle, have a heavier barrel of a larger caliber and usually, but not always, have a half stock. There are a number of full stock mountain rifles but they are less common than the half stock rifles. They are generally referred to as mountain rifles simply because they were made to meet the needs of the men who were going into the mountians to trap furs. Some were made as flintlocks but the vast majority of the mountain rifles made by the Hawken brothers were caplock rifles. Most, but not all, were made with removable barrels held into the stock with wedge pins. This design feature made them easier to clean.
The term Mountain Rifle refers to a style of rifle. One of the best example of a mountain rifle is a Hawken (real Hawken) rifle. They were shorter than the Kentucky rifle, have a heavier barrel of a larger caliber and usually, but not always, have a half stock. There are a number of full stock mountain rifles but they are less common than the half stock rifles. They are generally referred to as mountain rifles simply because they were made to meet the needs of the men who were going into the mountians to trap furs. Some were made as flintlocks but the vast majority of the mountain rifles made by the Hawken brothers were caplock rifles. Most, but not all, were made with removable barrels held into the stock with wedge pins. This design feature made them easier to clean.
Billnpatti
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Leather dye gives a nice color. It goes on very dark but you just buff it back as light as you want with 4 ought steel wool. Leather dye really gives a nice color to the wood. You can also buy some Aqua Fortis from some of the muzzleloading suppliers. You put it on and heat the wood with a hair drier to set the color. Then you neutralize it according to the directions. This will give you an authentic stain. I like to finish with 10 to 12 coats of Tru Oil.
Just take the stock out into the bright sunlight and lightly wet the wood with water.Dandyfunk said:
While the wood is wet, what you see is what you'll get if only a finishing oil is applied.
I suggest this because when any oil is applied to the wood, it sinks in. Light sanding won't remove all of it and if any oil remains it will interfere with any stain you may want to apply.
If you use the water method of seeing what the wood would look like, when it drys there will be nothing to hamper the staining.
+1 :thumbsup: I learned the hard way about this. Now that is the way I do it.
Well I have it all back together again. There are quite a few things that could be done better, but I was tired of the gun being in pieces and a non shooter. The screws on the patch box are too small, waiting for my local hardware shop to get the right size in. also the angle of the stock topside is not correct, but it will have to do. Remember that this is my first bp and I am in it for $150. Its a good shooter and will be my rondy gun till something new comes along. Here are some pics. Df
P.S brown splotch between the patch box and the trigger guard is where the P.O. dripped some stain, I sanded forever and realized that it was not gonna leave without affecting the shape of the stock, so I left it. Df
P.S brown splotch between the patch box and the trigger guard is where the P.O. dripped some stain, I sanded forever and realized that it was not gonna leave without affecting the shape of the stock, so I left it. Df
OMG thats ugly. Send it to me and I'll hide it for ya! :rotf:
VERY nice looker. I have uglier and like em just fine. You did very well indeed :thumbsup: . Now post us some target pics....PRONTO!
VERY nice looker. I have uglier and like em just fine. You did very well indeed :thumbsup: . Now post us some target pics....PRONTO!
Dandy;
One question/suggestion...
Can you take the wood down a little farther at the top front of the lock so they are even without impacting the color/finish easily enough? A few strokes with a small plane would probably take that right down to about where it should be and make enough of a difference where the eye is naturally drawn that I'd say it's worth the effort.
One question/suggestion...
Can you take the wood down a little farther at the top front of the lock so they are even without impacting the color/finish easily enough? A few strokes with a small plane would probably take that right down to about where it should be and make enough of a difference where the eye is naturally drawn that I'd say it's worth the effort.
Treestalker
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The brown sploch is about where the nickle silver turtle inlay goes to ward off reumatism and ague. Ha! By the way my late brother Tiny won a first place ribbon at a local shoot with a CVA Hawken, But he had been in the Marine Corps and could outshoot me, :shocked2: Dangit! Try the aquafortis stain it looks good on any maple, just be sure to neutralize it. Treestalker.
