• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

"New" Jackie Brown Fowler just arrived

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The muzzle is the most critical area of a gun, smoothie, or rifled. Its the last time the barrel has to affect the flight of any projectile(s) fired out of it.

Its not done often today, but if you look at very old shotguns, particularly double barrels, you will see obvious evidence that the barrels have been FILED to REGULATE the patterns. With Doubles, its not uncommon to find the two barrels shooting patterns that are separated by some feet out at 40 yards. This is caused by the two metal tubes vibrating away from each other. At Friendship, I have seen many of these old guns with muzzles filed in a "U" shape, taking more metal off in the center of the two barrels, than from the sides.

I have talked to the dealers about this over the years. The Older guys( when I was first visiting the NMLRA as a kid in the early 60s) told me why this was done. These were heavy "duckblind" guns- way too heavy to swing at upland game--- where tighter patterns, and patterns that shot to the SAME POINT OF AIM were essential. ( The Terms I have used here came from these older, much more knowledgeable men- not me.) The guns were loaded Heavy, and were used for "Pass-shooting", ie., to shoot birds that were called into the blind, and shot as they were flying, or "passing", overhead. The barrels' weight was not a limiting factor on leading the birds, and the added weight helped to deal with the added recoil of the loads they used.

I tried to find out what a " Heavy load" was, but none of the dealers could tell me. The guns they were selling were old when they were boys! :idunno: :shocked2: :rotf: :surrender: :hmm:

Any rough spot, or sharp edge on the INSIDE of the crown can tear or cut a patch, or cut through part of the patch. A burr sticking out can catch on a patch, or wad, or card, and cause the load of shot to Tilt as its leaving the barrel, and ruin any idea of a pattern.

I have seen at least one shotgun where someone hit the muzzle of one barrel with something very hard, and caused a Nick in the metal that extended across the diameter of the barrel, raising a burr on the inside of the muzzle. The burr was sufficiently large, in that case, that the shooter had trouble loading his wads into the barrel, and sought help from our club's resident gunsmith.

We ended up filing the crown flat again, to remove the NICK, and then reshaped the crown, checking to make sure that the muzzle was still square to the bore. I think the barrel ended up being shortened by maybe .020". The filing involved was time consuming, because we didn't want to file one side more than another, and we really didn't have the right equipment to measure the depth of that NICK. So, we filed, and kept an eye on the nick to see when we finally removed it. Even after years of doing filing, it still takes conscious discipline to Not put pressure on the file, and simply let the file teeth do the cutting.

The owner picked up his gun that evening, and managed to sneak out and shoot it within a couple of days. He told the gunsmith that he thought the gun now shot better patterns than before the muzzle was damaged! He said the crown we put on the muzzle made it easier for him to load his wads down the muzzle. :hmm: ( The Gunsmith was a personal friend, and drafted me to help him with the work one evening. He wanted to use some tools I had that he didn't.)

I am glad that you found and fixed that roughness, with improved patterns(perhaps) as a result. The different result in hunting success may be nothing more than a change in clothing that made the LOP fit you better one time than the other. Or, you may just have had a bad day shooting, to account for the lack of success. BTDT. :rotf: :idunno:
 
"1)How often should I take the lock off?? "

I remove and clean the lock after every outing unless I shoot only once or twice then I wipe it down with alch. same for the flint/leather, you will lke this gun, the style comes to the shoulder and eye very fast and true, at times I regret(almost) selling mine but another gun was calling, have fun, there are many options for ball and shot, there are some past threads with a lot of detail on the various methods different shooters use.
 
Thanks Paul!

We did not run a patch down between shots . . . maybe we should have?

I know he went out yesterday afternoon to scare some jackrabbits! :grin:

I wondered what had happened to the sunshine! :grin: Must have been that cloud of smoke! :wink:
 
I did get out yesterday. Learned a few things...1st; one should not rest one finger under the frizzen when firing. OUCH! Lesson learned. 2; I really like shooting shot out this gun. 3; you might be a fantastic shot with a modern gun, BUT this does not instantly transfer (and may be a sight impediment) to shooting a fliter accurately. 4; I need a shooting bag. Taking the backpack off everythime was a bit teadious. 5; My canoe works very well as clean up bench.

I love my little fowler!

Jckrabbit
 
Since you live and hunt where the relative humidity is so LOW, I encourage you to run a damp patch down the barrel after each shot, to soften and remove the fouling. Then follow with at least ONE dry cleaning patch, to get your spit, or water OUT of the barrel completely.

In below freezing temperatures( Arizona seems to be seeing more of this in recent years) use Isopropyl Alcohol on your patch instead of water, as the alcohol will evaporate easily in the dry, cold air, and take the moisture with it.

Oh, I have also found that greasing the bore with a greased cleaning patch AFTER loading the powder wads and shot down the barrel, softens the residue very well, and allows you to reload, in some conditions, without the need to wipe the bore first with a dampened cleaning patch, and then a dry cleaning patch. This process does NOT work as well in really cold dry conditions, however.

Maybe, if the grease is mixed with alcohol, it might work better, but I simply have not worked with a combination of lube and alcohol enough to be sure. I am always thinking of ways to solve these bothersome problems. Unfortunately, I live in a " middle zone" as to climate, and while it may get down below zero a couple of days a Year at NIGHT, it rarely remains that cold during the daytime. So, I actually read closely posts by members who live and hunt in Canada, and Alaska to find "solutions" that I might adapt down here in Central Illinois. I do try things out if the weather permits me to get out to the range, but around here, the weather can be affected by a NW Alberta Clipper, one day, and by the Gulf of Mexico SW winds the next.

The best advice I can give you is to be prepared to adjust your loading and cleaning routine to changes in Temperature, and relative Humidity, not only seasonally, and daily, but hourly. You will learn what to change, and how or when to change it by reading posts here, asking for advice, as you have done here, and through practice. :thumbsup:
 
I just made a deal with Jackie for an early virginaia style 62 smooth rifle he had listed on another forum....and it will be here this weekend!!!! I am seriously psyched!! My only smoothbore experience has been with the renegade and I am so looking forward to figuring out what this girl likes. He also has a 75 jaeger already madefor sale...check out the ad on historical trekking.com
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Jckrabbit said:
I did get out yesterday. Learned a few things... 5; My canoe works very well as clean up bench.

I love my little fowler!

Jckrabbit

What did you do fill up the canoe, and then give "Jackie" a bath! :grin: :rotf: :blah:

I know where you can get more shot . . . but it ain't cheap! Rotometals has it about the best price $89 shipped for 50 pounds . . . I got some #4 if you wanna give that a try, before you buy a bunch . . .
 
Thanks Paul!

Some more good ideas as always!

Lately we have been having high 30's in the morning (43 this am!) and low 70's in afternoons . . . (78 yesterday I even took off my longjohns!) Spring has sprung! But it is dryer than most places, in the summer our humidity will go all the way up to about 65% . . .
 
Thanks to one and all for the help.

123DB the canoe was upside down. I used it for a work bench. Living in the desert that's about its good for!

I have been thinking that since I can't hit anything with it right now I might just drop down to 50 grains of powder and 3/4 oz of shot.At least until I can develope some follow thru. Any thoughts?

Have a blessed day,
Jckrabbit
 
How about we get some paper from church, and see where it is going . . . how much shot were you putting in?

Maybe Thurs evening, or Fri . . . I have printing on Sat for awhile.

You really need to pattern it . . . I got some new 12ga I loaded up that I need to pattern too . . . :grin:
 
Here are some comments on difference shooting BP in dry and humid conditions.

1. BP does NOT Burn as efficiently( completely) in dry areas( cold, or arid) as it will in humid conditions. Humidity actually helps the BP burn more completely!

2. In dry conditions, the fouling STICKS to the barrel quicker, and becomes very dry, and HARD. In humid conditions, the fouling is softer, and more slimey, or greasy feeling. It will contaminate the next powder charge faster than when the same gun is loaded in dryer conditions. The Wet residue is easier to remove, but its also easier to shove down into your powder chamber( if your gun has one) or into the flash channel.

I make a point NOT to run my cleaning jag all the way down the barrel on my percussion shotgun in the summer time when humidity is high, here. I stop one inch short of the breech, remove the greasy cleaning patch , and then use a New patch to run down the barrel and get the rest of the wet residue from the breech. Then I use one or two DRY cleaning patches down the barrel to thoroughly dry the barrel before pouring down the next powder charge. I let the patching TELL me when the barrel is DRY, and reasonably clean.

3. With the same gun, you will find that in Dry( Low humidity) conditions, you need to use a wetter cleaning patch to get the residue out of the barrel. In DAMP (high humidity) conditions, You can sometimes get away without dampening the patch at all, before removing the residue.

I dampen my cleaning patches by wiping them over my tongue, and then folding the patch in half and rubbing the spit into the cotton fabric.

I hope this helps folks who live in areas where the relative humidity varies widely, either daily, or seasonally. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks Paul and congrats on the new fowler!
So far things seem to be going alright in the cleaning department. my wife was at a church ladies meeting last night so me and the boy recleaned the fowler on the kitchen table. I was surprised to see how little powder fowling there was inside the lock. I just used several blasts of Rem oil then a toothbrush and a couple more blasts to clean it. I wiped most of the oil off before putting it back together. I also removed the flint and cleaned the jaws really well. It was surpising simple. Once again this little gun has proven to be pleasure to own.

Jckrabbit
 
Keep making smoke . . . the fun has only just begun!

When we both have time, I'd like to come up and try it again with you sometime!
 
Back
Top