This is all good advice. Especially increasing the charge toward 75 gr. I've played with the red dodge idea and it haas merit. But takes practice.
Beautiful rifleFirst off, let me apologize for the fact that this is another “zeroing” thread. I realize the subject has been written about ad nauseam, and I have reviewed a number of threads on this forum and others… only to find myself more confused than ever.
I recently picked up this .50 cal Richard “****” Miller rifle, my second from this builder. I’d really like to make this my primary flintlock for rendezvous and club shoots. It currently appears to be dead nuts on at approximately 25 yards in terms of both windage and elevation with a .490 ball and .020 patch, using roughly 55 grains of FFG Swiss. I made the mistake of taking the rifle to the club shoot this past Sunday, and was feeling quite confident after spending a little time with it at the range the day before. My confidence quickly diminished as I struggled to score hits on target after target. I believe I got nine out of forty, which just isn’t like me… I took second place at last month’s shoot (using a different rifle), just a couple points away from the gentleman who is regularly “top dog”.
Most of my shooting with this rifle will be trail walk events. Our club moves to the range during the hotter months due to fire danger, and we shoot steel animal silhouettes at 25, 50, 75, and 100 yards. I’m looking for the zero that would give me the least POI deviation from one distance to another. I kind of gleaned through my reading that this might be a POA/POI zero at 100 yards. Is that correct? I don’t want to have to mess around with holdover stuff and utilize Kentucky windage. The targets are typically large enough that one has at least a few inches in any direction in terms of margin of error.
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