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LRB

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Well, I needed a break from the regular grind so to speak, and made an easy knife with a little decoration. 4" blade of 01 tool steel, 3/32" thick, and 7/8" wide. The ferrule is a sterling silver band, silver brazed together, and to a file decorated silver front plate. Had a nice piece of small crowned antler from a spike deer, and carved a face into the butt end. Hope you enjoy a look. If there are any questions, feel free to ask.

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Bravo! I really like that. :bow: The silver band with rope braid is a very nice touch.
 
mighty spiffy knife, Wick. What did you finish the antler with?

I'm a big fan of O-1....very field-usable.

Grant
 
The antler was just sanded, buffed a little, and lightly stained with Fiebings medium brown leather dye.
Yeah, I'm a hard fan of 01. I seldom use anything else. IMO, it's a great steel for edge holding and fine grain.
 
Terrific looking knife, Wick! :thumbsup: Can you tell us the length of the handle so I can get a perspective on its size?
 
Wick

its the tungsten in O-1 that tells the tale, edge-wise. I use A-2 for my skinners, as it offers a slight advantage when dealing with boar hair. But O-1 is a fave for nearly all others, including razors

Do you forge, or grind? I forge from O-1 drill-rod, usually 5/8" or 3/4" Waht adhesive do you use to attach the antler? Have you found deer antler durable enough?

I use O-1 in my classes as well...it just offers more in a blade than the 10-series IMO.

You silver work is nice! Do you buy the silver bits from a particular supplier?
 
deer antler is one of the best grips, IMO. It is very strong for it's weight and size. The blade was ground from bar stock. The antler was drilled out for the tang then attached with epoxy. I have a precious metals supplier about 45 minutes away, but used scrap pieces I already had on this one. As long as one has the means to heat treat the 01, it is a fine steel, and can be used for choppers, to skinners, depending on the temper. I have been heat treating A2 for Lonehunter, and it seems very good also. We started off with a forced air quench, went to plate quenching, then back to the forced air. The plate quenching was more trouble to do than it was worth, and did not seem to help much, if at all.
 
Thank you Wick..keep the pictures coming..love the detail. This site has opened my eyes to some great work!
 
Wick: Thanks for that information. :wink: :thumbsup: I really love the proportions of the knife. :bow: But, that is a very short handle compared to the width of my big hands. I am sure I could use such a knife with that short handle safely, but all my radar would be up and running to keep from cutting myself. If only used as a Patch knife, It would be wonderful size knife to have.

I also love that carving on the butt of the handle. Very creative use of space that is often ignored by knife makers. Great work! :bow: :v :hatsoff: :hatsoff:
 
Wonderfully designed and superbly executed! The overall proportion, filework,carving and fit and finish are just to my liking. The owner will sure be proud of that one. Top notch Wick!
 
Wick:

I have found the forced air (compressor nozzle w/moisture separator)the most effective.

A2 also quenches nicely in oil, with some hardness added, but you musy use honest-to-goodness quenching oil for this.

A2 is also much more expensive volume to volume than O1. I probably forge 10 O1s for every A2

Do you harvest your own deer antler, or buy outside?
 

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