New Neck Knife

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Wick,

Extraordinary workmanship! I love lookin' at, then reading about your knife posts. It's a treat to hear about the methods you use, to accomplish these projects.

I've always wanted to make one that incorporated a powder charger into the design. Two of my favorite guns use 60 grs of FFg and by combining my patch knife and measure, it would make one less tool to have to carry. :hmm:
 
Great proportion, and the vine file work kept in sync with the blade thickness really adds to the appeal.
 
That is a real beauty Wick! :thumbsup: I don't think you have ever done a piece that I have seen that I can't say I admire. Your workmanship is absolutely superb! :hatsoff:
 
Beautiful knife Wick! I really like the file work you've done. My personal favorite part of knifemaking. :thumbsup:
 
asbsolutely beautiful...i want to say as usual Wick, but sir..every knife i see you turn out is better than the last one..the mark of a true craftsman,,,

now..a question..what sheath will you use?...gotta be a fantastic one to keep up with the knife..

God Bless

Lee
 
It is a neck knife only because it will be in a neck sheath.
The Climbing Vine file work is easier to do than it may look. Basicly you cut half moons in the spine at a 45° angle, or somewhere near that, stopping them at, or just a tad more than half way across the spine. A new cut on the opposite side begins where the previous cut ends. Make your last cut, opposite of your first. Then useing a tri-corner file you cut the thorns/leaves beginning where you stopped cutting half moons near the point. Study what you're doing for a moment, and cut these thorns to point towards the grip. Some cut these to point towards the point. That is not correct from an artistic view, or a practical aspect. Plants grow from a stem, and the leaves stem upwards most often getting thicker the higher they go. From a practical aspect, if the thorn/leaves point toward the point, they can hinder penetration of the blade to a slight degree. You first cut a v that will form a triangular thorn. Then carefully file a rounding sweep away from it forming the body of the vine. For the half moons, you must choose a half round file, or sometimes a full round, depending on how large a half moon you want, and how large and thick the blade is. Here is a better photo of vine work. File work should be done before the blade is heat treated. The cuts can be polished if desired, but I rarely do. After heat treat the cuts are usually dark and give a good contrast, but if not they can be cold blued. I also sand the edges of the spine a little to dull the points of the thorn/leaves.

IMG_0333.jpg
 
Wick: I am always amazed at your work, and your photography.

THANK YOU very much for sharing in detail how this artwork is done. You make it sound easy, but we both know its not.

I can't imagine the amount of time you invested in the blade shown to finish this decoration, even after all the years of "practice" you have put in learning to do it efficiently. The vines really make this knife look outstanding. :bow: :bow: :hatsoff: :hatsoff:
 
In this case Paul, it really is easy. I had Lonehunter able to do it in one quick lesson, and 2 or 3 practice runs on brass. The climbing vine is cut without layout, or hash marks. Just a little attention and thought. Hourglass designs are best done with at least distance marks layed down.
 
Wow! I would at least put measuring marks on the edge to guide the centering of the half round cuts. But, then, I don't trust myself, yet, to do these kinds of things without guidelines. :thumbsup:
 
Just eyeball it, it will be fine! I tried laying one out, it was a little too symmetrical, did not look right. I think it looks a lot better if things are not quite perfect, looks more natural (if you will)
Of course mine look better than Wicks! That goes without saying :rotf: :rotf:
Just kidding! The man has a lot of talent! But you did not hear that from me!
He would not believe it anyway! :grin:
 
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