New owner question: Should I go ahead and buy Slix Shot nipples?

[bwayne65]

Just bought my first percussion revolver (Pietta Navy 1851 in .36).

I'm starting to build my shooting kit but I've seen a number of videos claiming how great Slix Shot nipples are. I'm curious should I first try the nipples that came with the gun to see if there are issues or should I just "bite the bullet" and buy some Slix Shot when they are back in stock?

Thoughts?

 

[SDSmlf]

Just bought my first percussion revolver (Pietta Navy 1851 in .36).

I'm starting to build my shooting kit but I've seen a number of videos claiming how great Slix Shot nipples are. I'm curious should I first try the nipples that came with the gun to see if there are issues or should I just "bite the bullet" and buy some Slix Shot when they are back in stock?

Thoughts?

I would try shooting with what you have. Untold numbers of rounds were fired in these guns without issue before someone came up with the Six Shot nipple. Sounds like you are looking for a solution to a non existent problem.

 

[bang]

My oldest is near 50 years old and still shoots with the original nipples. Granted probably wouldn't hurt to get new ones but if I did I would get standard ones because they work just fine.

 

[Justin.44]

I agree about trying the original nipples first. I don't have them on any of my revolvers and I have very little problems with cap jams or misfires, though I know many do.

Give 'em a try and see how they do before you spend the money. If you do have any problems I'm sure the slix shots would fix it, I've heard good things.

If you do decide you want them before they get stocked back up online you might try posting a wanted ad on this forum.

 

[Bad Karma]

Just bought my first percussion revolver (Pietta Navy 1851 in .36).

I'm starting to build my shooting kit but I've seen a number of videos claiming how great Slix Shot nipples are. I'm curious should I first try the nipples that came with the gun to see if there are issues or should I just "bite the bullet" and buy some Slix Shot when they are back in stock?

Thoughts?

Shoot what you have first. No sense spending money just because...

 

[.36Rooster]

I only bought a set of 6 spare #10's, which I change out during extended shooting sessions when the old ones start getting a bit too fouled to clean by hand. Or if I don't have time to do a full clean when running out the door, I will put clean ones on and save the dirties for later.

I have not really had much trouble with misfires because I seat caps on with a dowel. BUT, after a couple cylinders you should floss your nipples to remove external fouling. That will start causing misfires and spoil your fun enough that you'll stop and floss.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Just bought my first percussion revolver (Pietta Navy 1851 in .36).

I'm starting to build my shooting kit but I've seen a number of videos claiming how great Slix Shot nipples are. I'm curious should I first try the nipples that came with the gun to see if there are issues or should I just "bite the bullet" and buy some Slix Shot when they are back in stock?

Thoughts?

You haven't told us how prepared you are to go to the range. So Forgive me if I ramble a bit. And I have no financial interest in Deer Creek, I just like the measure they have since it is graduated in 2 grain increments.

My thoughts are to determine first the size of percussion caps you need. If this is a new Pietta Navy, the nipples should be sized for a #10 cap. Even so there can be slight differences in the production nipple sizes. I use a digital Vernier caliper to measure the tips of the nipple cone. The #10 cap will measure approximately 0.155" at the top of the cone. The #11 nipple will measure 0.165" at the tip of the cone.

I heartily recommend that you get a quality nipple wrench for your pistol and as part of your preparation for your first visit to the range, clean all the oils out of the pistol. Remove the nipples. Factory installation often overtightens the nipples and they can be very difficult to remove. Revolver Nipple Wrench - A410 (deercreekproducts.net) or

Properly fitting screw drivers are needed when you take the revolver apart for cleaning. Most of the screws are fairly soft and easy to burr the screw slots.

Measure the cylinder mouth and the barrel groove to groove diameter. Ideally the cylinder mouth and the groove to groove diameter will be equal. Use the diameter of the cylinder mouth to determine the size of the ball you will need. I use a ball 0.005" oversize. Upon loading a ring of lead should be shaved off for a good seal. I use 0.380" balls in my revolvers.

Get a volumetric powder measure for revolver. I like this one from Deer Creek. Revolver Powder Measure - A1260 (deercreekproducts.net)

Might as well have the necessary cleaning supplies on hand too. Revolver Cleaning Sets - A15331-A15334-A15336 (deercreekproducts.net) and a rod .45 Caliber Pistol Cleaning Kit - (deercreekproducts.net) . You won't need the 45 caliber brush and jag, but its half the price of the pistol cleaning rod.

I do recommend that you use 3fg GOEX (real black powder) but Triple Seven may work. Get a can funnel to transfer powder from your can to the measure.

 

[BeoBill]

I've used Pyrodex powder and pellets for a decade with no problems. These days it's probably wise to shoot what you can get.

 

[bwayne65]

Thanks everyone for the great info! Sounds like I should try the originals first and see how they do. Watched a Duelist vid on Youtube and he was recommending Remington #10 for the vanilla Pietta Navy nipples.

 

[snuffy19608]

Yeah, the only problem is FINDING them. I bought Treso nipples for my 1861 Navy and have a set of Slixshot nipples on back order. Both are for #11 nipples, that's all I seem to find around here or online.

Duelist has a point, if the originals work why switch? I believe one of the reasons he likes Slixshot products is they help prevent cap sucking, thereby keeping the gun from binding. Good luck finding the #10's, maybe they're available where you are.

 

[LST-1185]

Go ahead and try the stock nipples. If you like the way they perform that's great. As for myself I like Treso nipples. When I go out I'll shoot 150 to 200 rounds and with all the fouling on these nipples I don't have any problems with cap fit, misfires or cap jams.

 

[CVA Enthusiast]

I have a Pietta .36 with the slix shots, are they all the claims make them, SEE Blackie Thomas Shamans Forge percussion revolver series. But eh they do help solve some cap jams nothing 100%. And there are low cost just as effective measures you can perform with factory nipples that will save ya $50.

 

[Smokerr]

I would try shooting with what you have. Untold numbers of rounds were fired in these guns without issue before someone came up with the Six Shot nipple. Sounds like you are looking for a solution to a non existent problem.

I like to experiment with things and was not happy with the caps I could get and results. So I did buy the Slix Springs. No better, no worse. I look on it as entertainments costs.

So go with what you got for now, see how it works out.

As for Caps, I take what I can get. The RS1075 I have fit well. I have cap jams at times and I have them drop into the action. Just part of the aspect of BP shooting for me. There are some possible fixes out there for some of that but its only target shooting for me so I have the time to deal with it.

 

[D Yager]

New nipples are not gonna cure cap jams. My thoughts are to run the ones you have. I would go with nipples that fit the most common caps you can find in your area, where I am it's CCI # 11s. The cap jam issues can be solved to nearly 100% by installing a cap post and action shield. A revolver that sucks caps is a true PITA. That little slot in the hammer nose for the safety pins is the culprit. The cap tends to form its self into the slot and the hammer pulls it off and it drops into the slot under the hammer. A cap post solves this problem by pulling the spent cap off the hammer. An action shield keeps anything that the gets past the cap post from falling into the innards. It also deflects a lot of powder fouling away from the internals as well. As to shaving lead from the ball I feel its an old wives tale. Those little rings of lead can and will jam up the cylinder on a properly set up revolver. I set them up for an ideal barrel/cylinder gap of .002. That ridiculous ring can get caught between the cylinder and forcing cone and bring everything to a screeching halt. I chamfer the chamber mouths so the ball is compressed in rather than cutting any lead off it. Another thought about lead shaving is it changes the weight and CG of the ball and can have an effect on accuracy.