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New shooter w/ a new gun

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ryan1376

32 Cal.
Joined
Mar 2, 2015
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Hi folks,

Happy to be hear with other people who have a love of the smoke pole guns. I just purchase my first (probably of many) muzzleloaders at a local gun show. It is a used Dixie gun works Tennessee 50 caliber rifle. It is a left hand model which works for me since I shoot left handed, :wink: The rifle does have a few small issues. The one that concerns me is the hammer will not stay at half cock. I have taken apart the trigger and lock and got a good feel of how all of these parts work together. The problem appears to be that the "groove" or "step that the sear catches on for the half cock has been partially chipped away. it will hold without the trigger install, but barely. It is very noticeable difference in the amount of pressure need to disengage it compared to full cock. I have found a replacement part at Dixie and the tool to compress the spring and disassemble the lock. Still a few more cold months up here in the northeast before I get to give my new friend some range time so I have time to get her all fixed up.

I didn't intend to give myself a project by buying this gun, but I am up to the challenge.
 
Welcome :hatsoff: And it sounds like you are off to a good start.

If you run into any difficulty, just sound off, and there'll be folks to jump in and give you a hand.
 
Hi and welcome to the forum and addiction to blackpowder shooting. Reading the forum is the best way to get acquainted with your new endeavor. Some of my favorite guns are/were project guns. I figure that you have already checked to see if the gun is loaded, amazing how many I've found were.
 
My southern rifle is basicly based on the DGW Tennessee. Your repair is not too hard and it will make it your gun. A ton of fun in your future to come.
 
Welcome to the Forum. :)
Most likely, the reason the half cock notch in the tumbler is broken is the last owner(s) had the hammer set at half cock and then cocked and released the set trigger.

The rear set trigger, when released, gives the sear arm a real stout whack and if the sear is engaged with the half cock notch it often will either brake off the nose of the sear or break the half cock notch.

For future reference, the set triggers can be cocked and released "'till the cows come home" without damaging anything IF the hammer is in the fired position without damaging anything.


If you have problems or questions about the best way to take apart or put together your lock, post them in "The Gunbuilder's Bench" area of the forum.
 
Hellooooo Ryan. Long way from cant rap Texas to Maine so had to shout.

I have one of the Dixie PoorBoys. Good shooter.

Your half cock notch could BR due to prev owner loosing the fly from the lock. Those tiny pieces of steel are there to keep the sear from catching when fired with set triggers.

You can use small vice grips to remove the main spring for disassembly. Even with a main spring vise I take the hammer to full cock, put the clamp of choice on lightly then let the hammer down.

Enjoy the journey
TC
 
Than you for the warm welcome. I will post the progress with this rifle and how it preforms as soon as I can. I already plan to build my next gun due to a lack of lefty rifles on the market and I want it to be truly mine.

Thank you for the insight on how this might have happened with the prior owner. Hopefully I don't repeat his mistakes.

40 Flint, thanx for the insight on getting the lock apart, that will really be helpful once I get the parts.
 
Ryan...

All three of my .50 caliber rifles (1 flintlock Long Rifle + 2 older CVA percussion cap Hawkens) are very accurate using 47 grains of FFFg Swiss black powder behind a Hornady swaged round, patched ball.

Last year, I just began checking out the same load using Goex rather than Swiss due to the difference in cost.

So far, at 25 yards, I haven't noticed any REAL "difference" in accuracy, but I haven't check it out at 50 yards yet.

Jus' thought I'd mention this in case you're looking for a "target load" in your .50 caliber rifle. This one works for me! :wink:


Strength & Honor...

Ron T.
 
Most likely, the reason the half cock notch in the tumbler is broken is the last owner(s) had the hammer set at half cock and then cocked and released the set trigger.

The rear set trigger, when released, gives the sear arm a real stout whack and if the sear is engaged with the half cock notch it often will either brake off the nose of the sear or break the half cock notch.

:doh: Now that is new news to me. :shocked2:
I have done that countless thousands of times with various rifles and no damage. I advise new shooters to do that for dry fire practice and never got negative feedback.
Not saying you are wrong but I have never experienced or heard this practice could damage a lock. I know you wouldn't say this without good reason but tis a puzzlement.
 
Can't you dry fire practice, with the hammer all way down, instead of having it at half cock? I would think there would be a lot of force exerted on the half cock notch. What am I missing here?
 
I have been shopping around for different ammo options. Hornady balls seem to be the norm here, powder is where it is getting tricky. Most shops here only stock powder when it is close to muzzleloading season for deer. I did pick up some RS pyrodex (it is the only thing I hve found so far). There are still a few shops to check, but I am not real hopeful. I will have to look for that powder. There seams to be a split of what grade to use in a 50 cal rifle, some list FFg and others say FFFg. Guess I will have to try both.
 
I use Pyrodex RS or pistol (PS) when I use Pyrodex. I like triple 7 better but lately been using Goex 3f, will be trying 2f in a few guns this spring.
 
Ryan, I used to live in Monmouth Me. and there is a great club in Maine called the Ancient Ones. Hook up with them and there is a wealth of info available. One of the members posts on this site under the handle Nitwit, his name is Ray Hamilton and he is one of the most knowledgeable muzzleloaders in Maine. Do a search on the site and you should be able to find his contact info.
 
hadden west said:
Can't you dry fire practice, with the hammer all way down, instead of having it at half cock? I would think there would be a lot of force exerted on the half cock notch. What am I missing here?

Do it, have done it both ways. Never a problem. However, the words of some here are worth heeding. The potential problem is certainly logical. I'll make a point of doing my sett trigger dry fire with cock down from now on.

Edit: I'm thinking the original poster had a problem with breakage was, in part, due to his not having a high quality lock to start with.
 

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