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My advice would be to handle as many rifles that you can. A good fit will help accuracy. Reasonably, someone new to muzzloading and flintlocks in particular should consider 50 yards a good max. A longer barrel is helpful due to a longer sight radius. Many flinters can shoot to 100 yards but it takes a proven load and lots of practice. Limit your effective range to a distance where you can hit a 4 in circle consistently off hand. Also, while a flintlock is generally considered a round ball gun, RB's tend to lose energy quicker at distance. I shoot Maxi Balls because of their incredible knock down power and are very accurate in my 1:48 twist rifles. They carry more energy to my self-imposed 70-80 yard max shooting distance. These are my opinions based on 50 years experience. Some will disagree.
 
You should visit Dixon's Shop in Kempton. They are extremely knowledgeable and very helpful. They are only a half hour or so from you. Also, there is much good info and people on this site to help you. Lots of opinions, though, too. I think the key to this is consistency and practice. You have to spend the time and also do everything the same every time. If you like to shoot, you will love this.
I actually swung by there the other day after a couple local muzzleloader buddies told me to check it out. They definitely had a ton of stuff. Didn’t find anything that seemed like a decent deal though.

I do enjoy shooting however I never get to shoot as much as I’d like to. The three times I qualify a year for work normally matches the amount of time I personally get out a year to just shoot embarrassingly enough.
 
A rifle for deer hunting think 54 caliber if you are intending to shoot patch round balls (PRB). It is always best to punch the largest hole you can. Slow twist rifling for PRB’s and fast twist is for shooting conical bullets.
Let me be the first to warn you off Ballistol oil.
It’s mineral oil with a very strong bad smelling perfume added. The only good trick it can perform is that it will mix with water to form a liquid that looks like milk.
Any good synthetic gun oil will dofor lubrication and rust prevention. I prefer Lubegard Premium Universal Lubricant oil it’s a Jojoba based oil the mimics and exceeds the fine qualities of whale oil.
Dawn liquid dish detergent and the new Dawn Power wash spray are excellent patch lube/grease removers as is any modern gun nitro powder solvent for carbon removal, is carbon whether is a little amount removed from your Granddads 30-06 Springfield or a lot from your new black powder muzzle loader.
Muzzle loading is a very expensive hobby to start up in but casting your own projectiles does greatly lower costs.
Thank you for all that awesome information!
 
I agree with what NotDanielBoone and nit wit said, go to Dixons, even if it just to see what you may or may not like.

You may fall in love with something and make a purchase right there. Or you may get some very good ideas, and place a wanted ad here or purchase one for sale here.

Good luck and Merry Christmas.
Already swung through there. Didn’t fall in love with anything there unfortunately. I 100% want to place a wanted ad but as a new non paying member I have to wait 30 days to post in there. I’ll keep peeking around the classifieds, local gun shops and online auction sites.

Thank you! Merry Christmas to you too!
 
I hunt a farm in late season in Berks.

I would recommend you get the highest quality flintlock you can reasonably afford. If you go cheap, you may have trouble with quality and reliability which will make a frustrating experience for a new BP shooter. And if a cheaper gun does work well, and you find you like it, you may outgrow it pretty quickly -depending on how frequently you shoot and what you're using it for.

A used TC with a good bore is a good choice. 50 cal will give you the easiest access to all the accessories and ammo stuff you need -its the most commonly available. Classifieds here may have some good guns at a good price.

Best of luck and hope you get things sorted and we'll see you at an event this spring or summer and in the woods next October.
Thank you for the awesome information! Looking forward to getting into this!
 
I would never risk any 100 yards shot at Deer and half that would be my limit & I have shot them from the hip, But where I live most deer are shot about 30 yards in hilly native forests . The' From the hip 'was going up a steep narrow gully the Hinde fell wedged in the top , luckily as it might have bowled me over in that tight space
.Rifle was a 24 bore Belted ball two grouve .You wont them at Dixons! ( They stopped making them about 1860 ). I know nothing about machine disgorged factory guns which is all I seek to know about them, but others on these forums do know about such guns so your in the right place . We in NZ have No seasons Deer are classed as 'Noxious introduced animals '
. A considerate of the Deer, Rudyard
That had to be pretty wild! Luckily for me I’ve got some wide open fields I hunt. I want a flintlock that’s capable of 75-100, if I am unable to accomplish a grouping that I feel comfortable with at that distance, then I’ll find my own maximum effective range. I am jealous you get to hunt year round.
 
My advice would be to handle as many rifles that you can. A good fit will help accuracy. Reasonably, someone new to muzzloading and flintlocks in particular should consider 50 yards a good max. A longer barrel is helpful due to a longer sight radius. Many flinters can shoot to 100 yards but it takes a proven load and lots of practice. Limit your effective range to a distance where you can hit a 4 in circle consistently off hand. Also, while a flintlock is generally considered a round ball gun, RB's tend to lose energy quicker at distance. I shoot Maxi Balls because of their incredible knock down power and are very accurate in my 1:48 twist rifles. They carry more energy to my self-imposed 70-80 yard max shooting distance. These are my opinions based on 50 years experience. Some will disagree.
To explain myself a little bit better, I have zero intentions of buying a flintlock and running into the woods and taking shots at 100 yards. I plan on spending some significant time at a range figuring out what load I like, how far out I can get a consistent grouping that I feel comfortable with and go from there. My goal is for a flintlock that’s capable of 75-100 yards, that doesn’t mean I’m going to be capable of it ha ha. I do really appreciate all of your advice. I’m looking forward to getting into this.
 
My advice would be to handle as many rifles that you can. A good fit will help accuracy. Reasonably, someone new to muzzloading and flintlocks in particular should consider 50 yards a good max. A longer barrel is helpful due to a longer sight radius. Many flinters can shoot to 100 yards but it takes a proven load and lots of practice. Limit your effective range to a distance where you can hit a 4 in circle consistently off hand. Also, while a flintlock is generally considered a round ball gun, RB's tend to lose energy quicker at distance. I shoot Maxi Balls because of their incredible knock down power and are very accurate in my 1:48 twist rifles. They carry more energy to my self-imposed 70-80 yard max shooting distance. These are my opinions based on 50 years experience. Some will disagree.
Ide shorten the range if possible but agree the Maxi bullet improuved your chances ,Our chances . I once bowled a Stag on a steep slip, same old two grouve but had not a snag stopped it rolling down Ide have 'worn' the tumbling stag . Not first time such snap shots had such a hazards too them .Our native forests of podocarps is pretty think & snap shots are not unusual I was crawling up a little creek no room when a big wild pig meets Me face to face .I had a 'Turn off 'Flintlock Breach loader but piggy jack took off in a flash . Powerful idea but too slow to reload .
Never catch on this Breach loading caper . Regards Rudyard
 
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