New to Blackpowder & Smoothbores

[Steve Tobler]

I am a Florida Seminole Indian re-enactor, circa 1817-1840 (First and Second Seminole Wars), with the Order of the Arrow, Boy Scouts of America and in developing my regalia, I wanted an Indian Trade Musket, or something similar.

I went to the pawn show looking for flintlocks and found one labeled "French 12ga. shotgun". Well it was obviously a smoothbore and not large enough to be 12ga., so I was pretty sure they didn't know what they had.

After quite a bit of online research, I finally identified my new acquisition. It is a Centermark Fusil-de-Chasse in 20 gauge, in really great shape and fantastic patina. Perfect for what I want.

I am new to blackpowder and smoothbores, so after reading a bit, my plan is to go with a .600 roundball with a .015 patch, over 90 FFg.

Comments, suggestions, advise and recommendations please ....

 

[Dausener]

You'll have to experiment some to see what works best in your gun. Congratulations by the way. It sounds like you found yourself a nice smoothbore. You will have to try different patches (thicknesses), amounts of powder, start at about 60-65gr and work your way up. Most likely somewhere in the 70-90gr range will work. with that load you could probably take any game in north america. A .600 ball will probably be alright but some prefer smaller depending on the bore size and patch thickness. As a matter of fact some shooters don't use any patch at all. Just powder, over powder card or wadding of some sort, bare ball, and some more wadding to hold the ball in place. Good luck Basset

 

[paulvallandigham]

Measure the bore of that barrel yourself- NEVER accept on FAITH what might be stamped on the barrel as to caliber or Gauge. Nominally, the bore should be .615" in diameter for a 20 gauge, or ".62 " caliber. But they can vary from .605 to .626" !! :shocked2:

That will determine ball diameter and patch thickness, or wad/card diameter for that particular barrel.

You don't need 90 grains of FFg or FFFg powder to kill anything with that, much less to punch holes in paper targets at a demonstration. CoyoteJoe has gotten very good accuracy using just 60 grains of FFg Goex powder in his gun.

You are pushing a small " Freight Car" towards your target when you shoot a RB out of that barrel. Once started, it gives amazing penetration on targets. The ball weighs 3/4 oz., and that is a lot of lead to hit a deer sized game target. Do NOT EXPECT to recover the ball if you shoot the animal broadside. It normally goes right on through both sides of the deer.

Welcome to the sport, Unless you have shot Flintlocks before, there will be a learning curve for you to climb to get used to shooting this kind of action. Expect it to take you awhile to learn, but we will help you all we can. :hatsoff:

 

[trent/OH]

hotoSmile:

Make us groan. How little did your "French 12 gauge" cost you?

 

[BigDogg]

Congratulations on your new Fusil! I have a centermark de Chasse too and I love it! I had good luck at my trail shoot with 60 gr of FFg, a .020 patch, and a .600 roundball. But I still need to do more experimenting with loads. You are gonna love your smoothbore! :thumbsup:

 

[Grenadier1758]

Congratulations on your new smoothbore.

I have just a few things to say.

1. Only use black powder. NO Substitutes!
2. Use good flints and learn to sharpen them.
3. Large amounts of powder with that 0.600 ball only serve to hurt and encourage flinching.
4. When you are done shooting, be sure to rigorously clean and oil your gun.

 

[spudnut]

Make sure the ball is ALL THE WAY DOWN on the charge,Otherwise you can do serious damage to the gun or yourself.

 

[Steve Tobler]

Lots of great comments and sage advise guys, I appreciate your time and effort to help a newbie out.

I appreciate there will be a learning curve, that's whey I'm here shooting into cyber-space first - ha, ha, ha.

I had already dug out my micrometer and mic'ed the barrel when I knew it wasn't 12-ga. It read exactly at .615, which is why I felt confident of going with the .600 RB & .015 patch.

New Plan - upon further contemplation, I will start my foray with a 65-gr. Goex FFg load and see how that goes first.

Will try and post some pictures up later today.

 

[Steve Tobler]

hotoSmile:

Well, here are the quick pic's I promised. You just can't get a nice close-up of the whole gun - LOL !!!
I will try to get some better shots later, when I can spend some more time.
Let me know what you think ....

 

[spudnut]

sweet,Youre gonna love smoothies I know I do :thumbsup:

 

[Many Klatch]

That is a pretty piece. Congratulations. Here is a quick class on shooting smoothbores.

I find that most smoothbores just need a thick enough patching to keep the ball from rattling on the way out. I use .010 and a .600 ball in my 20 gauge smoothbores. One gun likes 75 grains of 3f and the other likes 60 grains. You should be able to push the ball in with your finger and then ram it down the barrel without ever using a short starter. You should also be able to get 15 or 20 shots without cleaning. Some people like to make this difficult. I'd start with 60 grains until you have had a chance to shoot a couple of dozen shots then you can start messing with the load. I find it takes me about a year to get a new gun to do what I want it to do, so patience.

1) Use just one horn and prime out of the big horn. If you are reenacting there haven't been too many original priming horns found in original pouches. Besides, priming out of one horn is a lot faster.
2) Spit patch is not something you have to buy, you carry it with you all the time, it is handy and works well, the price is good too.
3) The secret to shooting a smoothbore is the gray stuff between your ears. Consistency means getting the same cheek weld every time and the same sight picture. Once you have that memorize you can concentrate on grouping.
4) Most smoothbores need to have the barrel bent a tad to shoot to point of aim. The barrel is a lot thicker at the back then the front so if you sight along the barrel you will shoot a lot higher than you want to.
5) Don't wipe between shots unless you can't get the ball down. Wiping between shots pushes crud to the bottom of the barrel which can cover the vent hole.
6) Clean with lots of hot soapy water. Steel wool or a green scrubby pad patch will clean the inside of the barrel wonderfully.
7) Always make sure that the ball is firmly tamped onto the powder charge.

Many Klatch

 

[wattlebuster]

Nice looking maple you got there :thumbsup:

 

[BigDogg]

Great looking Fusil! You're gonna love it! :thumbsup:

 

very nice. enjoy

 

[shortbow]

It just astonishes me that you could walk into a pawn shop and walk out with that, for a lot of reasons, but mostly because up here in Canukistan we have so much anti-gun paranoia that you'd be lucky if you could buy a pea shooter in a pawn shop. Congratulations, that's a gun I would be proud to own. Nice way to start out.

 

[satwel]

Congrats on an excellent find! You were lucky to find such a high quality weapon in a pawnshop.

I too started with a .600 ball but after a lot of experimentation, I have settled on .590 ball, .015 patch and 70 grains of 2F in my 20 gauge French tradegun for competition shooting. In a recent match, I put 3 out of 5 shots into one cloverleaf hole offhand at 25 yards. Once you find the perfect combination for your gun, smoothbores can be quite accurate within limits.

Experimenting with various combos of ball, patch and powder is all part of the fun with muzzleloaders. Remember to change only one variable at a time. Welcome to the club, be safe and have fun.

 

[hanshi]

Trying to make us jealous? What a fine looking gun...and that knife.

 

[Steve Tobler]

Use just one horn and prime out of the big horn. If you are reenacting there haven't been too many original priming horns found in original pouches. Besides, priming out of one horn is a lot faster.

This is an interesting topic for smoothbores.

I've been reading quite allot about loads and priming and there is no real consensus of what is best, other than to say "try everything and see what works best for your combination."

Sometimes a PRB works better with a different powder measure and/or granulation, than shot out of the same gun.

I can see using FFFg for both prime and charge, but if you are using FFg, do you also use that or maybe go with FFFFg since you need a second powder anyhow ?

:hmm:

 

[Supercracker]

I prime with FFG. No need for more than one powder

 

[spudnut]

Same here,I prime my smoothies with 2F,No problems