new to casting - looking for advice

[Big_Al]

You fellas have been really good about giving advice that kept me from really fouling stuff up since I've started this whole BP thing, so hopefully you can keep me from doing something dumb now that I want to start casting my own bullets.

My .54 Lyman Deerstalker seems to love the TC Maxi-Hunters, but 10$ a box was a little steep to be shooting them all the time. So I was able to snag a still-bilster carded TC Maxi-Hunter mold in .54 off E-bay, along with a set of Lyman Large handles from TOTW. I know I'll be needing to get a pot of some sort and a ladle, but other than that I'm good to go. I've also got 10# of pure lead on the way.

I've been reading up a lot about taking care of steel molds. Since this mold is brand new in the package, is there anything in particular I need to do to "break in" the mold? Since it's steel, I figured a good dose of aerosol brake cleaner would be in order to remove any grease. I'd say the brake cleaner will work good for cleaing up the mold afterward, and zipping it up in a foodsaver bag when I'm done should keep any worries of rust away.

What else can you fellas tell me? Do I need a hammer handle too to knock the sprue cutter around, or would something else work?

Thanks in advance!

 

[boar]

None of my TC molds are steel,aluminum with a brown finish. My Lymans are steel. When you start to cast make sure you heat the mold to get it warm, and leave first bullet in a little to also heat it up. A cheap pot is a piston cup out of a brake caliper, like out of a dodge truck. A small Lee dipper and you can start. I never used the brake cleaner, I would lean toward Alcohol. Good luck be careful. Dilly

 

[Bubba45]

Hot soapy water and an old tooth brush does a good clean up.Follow that with a rinse with hot tap water and dry with paper towel.Safety glasses are #1 for me . Dont let any water get in your molten lead as it will explode lead all over. Depending on your area you may need to lightly oil the mould for storage.

Do a little search a few pages back , a lot of good info was posted a few weeks back on casting :thumbsup:

 

[mazo kid]

+1 on the hot,soapy water and brush, unless it is heavily greased. Then you may want use the brake cleaner first, then the soapy water. If the mold is aluminum you may want to smoke the cavities before using. A small wooden mallet is used for gently tapping the sprue plate. NEVER use anything steel on a mold! Emery

 

[smokehouseman]

Save yourself a lot of grief and buy a casting furnace with a pour spout on the bottom, it's a lot safer, faster and more efficient all for under $50.

 

[boar]

I have one and used it one time. Went back to my old way. Small cast iron lade and can pour as fast as I can. I have bunch ladles but this one beats them all. I had it for years before I ever had a BP gun. I knew I would have use for it someday. Dilly

 

[Croppy Boy]

If you're buying a furnace, spend the few extra $ and get a large one. The small ones are fine but you're only getting going when you have to stop and refill it.

 

[MSW]

you want to do this outdoors, and you want to be upwind of the pot if there's even the slightest breeze. they're right- don't bang your mold with anything metal (i use a bit of firewood, being a congenital cheapskate). additionally, you should get a pit of soft towel or something similar to drop the ball out of the mold. it's a shame to cast a good ball and then dent it when it falls out of the mold.

good luck runnin' ball!

msw

 

[fw707]

I got a new pot a while back with a large capacity and adjustable heat. I can cast 300 .50 balls without refiling the pot.
The green cotton towel on the left is what I drop the bullets on. Don't use any synthetic cause it'll melt. I use an old hatchet handle to whack the sprue plate, and I clean the mold block with mineral spirits cause it's handy on the shelf beside the bench. Then I smoke the cavities with a candle.

 

[FPDoc]

I set my pot and accessories in a big 2" deep pizza pan that catches all the sprues and spoons and vise grips and candle stubs and soup cans and junk and etc. and when I'm done I just pick the whole thing up and slide it back onto the shelf.

 

[kevthebassman]

Maybe I'm different, but I just wear heavy leather gloves and move the sprue plate with my thumb while gripping the mold with the rest of my hand. Found it to be easier than picking up something to whack it with, no doubt it's easier on the mold too.



Works for me at least.....

 

[Big_Al]

You are right. A magnet will stick to the sprue cutter and other bolts, etc on the mold, but not to the mold body itself. Must be aluminum. Back to the drawing board!

 

[FPDoc]

Obviously brass or bronze mold blocks would not be attracted to a magnet either and both have been used for molds. Aluminum mold blocks are quite light compared to any other material commonly used in making bullet molds. "Not-magnetic" does not necessarily equal aluminum is my only point I guess. Have lots of fun casting.

"All my friends help me shoot what I cast but none of them seem to come and help cast them"..Hmmm