New to Flintlocks

[BlueDuck]

Folks,
Over the weekend I shot my new Lyman Custom Deerstalker Flintlock. I bought this rifle several months ago, but I just got the opportunity to shoot the rifle. I used a mix of Arkansas flints, English flints, and some old broken arrow heads that I've picked up around east TN (hey...I was getting frustrated). The Arkansas flints seemed to dull really quick (maybe three shots and it quit sparking). This was most disappointing as I was expecting to get 250 shots from one flint. The broken arrow heads worked very well, but I did not have any means to resharpen/reshape them. I only tried the English flints for a couple of shots. Can any of you guys recommend a good primer for me to read to get the hang of making me smart enough to make my rifle reliable enough to hunt with? Thanks much.

 

[freeonthree]

My deerstalker likes cut agates.
If you drill out the vent to 1/16 it will help.

Tom

 

[longfowler]

I have an older lyman trade rifle, and it has a cut agate flint in it with almost 70 shots on it.

 

[bingo1952]

I am assuming you are using cut rather than knapped flints. You may want to try them bevel up as well as bevel down. I would also suggest opening your touch hole With a #50 or #51 drill. As far as something to read just google flintlock and you'll get enough hits to keep you busy for a lifetime.

 

[hornetk4]

Blueduck welcome to the flintlock group , don't be discuraged at first it takes a little tinkering with your lock to get consistant ignition. I'm by far no expert at the flintlocks yet but all of mine do shoot well, I've tried to follow most of the great advise that I've gotten here on this site.Some of the basics that I've found is that in reference to your flints that your using, first you'll need a flint that is sharp across the front. it should be mounted in the hammer so that the sharp edge is about to touch the top portion of the frizzen when hammer is at half cock for starters. Then when you pull the hammer back to fire you want the sharp edge to scrape down most of the frizzen until it comes to the end of it's stroke . At this point the sharp edge should be just over the center of the pan so that the sparks fall right into the prime powder then BANG.That is basically how my guns are set up , there are a lot more knowledgable folks here that will explain in better detail .In fact there is a very good tutorial on lock tuning here on this site I'm sure the gentalman that wrote it will hop in to help with your request and you'll be up and shooting great in no time good luck and be carefull.

 

[Toomuch_36]

Hey Blueduck, welcome to the addiction:
In my opinion you will have your best time experience with the natural flints (black englist or french amber) as they are much more easily re-sharpened and far less distructive to your frizzen. The cut agate are way too hard a composition and usually tend to gouge your frizzen rather than scrape it, and it is more cost effective to replace a flint than it is a frizzen.
To resharpen a natural flint (or arrow head) simply strike it on the edge, in a downward motion with the brass end of your short starter to chip off a fresh edge and reposition in the cock jaw if necessary. The edge of the flint should be all but touching the frizzen face about 3/4 up when in the half cock position with the pan closed.

Toomuch
...........
Shoot Flint

 

[blacksmithman64]

might want to look up Rich Pierce on this forum, he sells some white missouri flints that are the best sparkers I have ever used.

 

[Swampman]

They are excellent flints.

 

[Birddog6]

The lock is made for a 3/4 x 3/4 square flint. You can get them at TOW or you can buy a std. 3/4" flint (3/4 x 7/8 long) & knapp about about 1/8" off the length. On a Lyman lock I always cut a notch in the back of my jaw leather & push the flint all the way back to the jaw screw.. Use Tom Fuller Black English Flints in that lock & you will get 25 to 40 shots per flint.

Take the vent liner out & wrap it in a piece of leather & snug it in the vice, Cone the outside of it slightly with a #2 center drill & this will also open the vent to a 5/64 dia hole, turn it over & lightly cone the inside as well. Put a lil Antisieze on it & just snug it in (NOT Tight) and you will see a Immediate improvement in the ignition.

If ya don't want to buy the centerdrills, mail me a vent liner & I will mod it for you & mail it back. You can buy the vent liners at most ML venders, just tell them it is for a GPR or GPH as it is a metric liner. Email me at [email protected]

:thumbsup:

 

[BlueDuck]

Guys,
Thanks much for all the great feedback. I’m going to read up on several articles on this site. I never thought to try to reshape my flints using the lock or the bullet starter. I'm back in south AL so it will be another week before I get to get back out to the range. On a side note, as long as I had a sharp flint, the rifle was shooting accurately and reliably. I can't wait to take it hog hunting.
BlueDuck

 

[BenCoogle]

If you're in the Ariton/Enterprise/Elba/Jack area you need to look up the WhiteWater Longhunters. Ben
http://www.thebeardog.com/WWLH.htm should get you there.

 

[gordy]

If you find a flint that gives 250 shots let me know. The most I've been able to get is 50 or so.

 

[Zoar]

Blue---Yes, just like any new sport or hobby, you have to expect some learning curve.

The big question is: DID YOU HAVE FUN YOUR FIRST TIME OUT WITH YOUR FLINTLOCK!?

3 strikes does sound very low. Did you use leather or lead to wrap your flint before you put it in the JAW? The wrap you used may not have gotten the flint tight enough, or you may have the flint at a bad angle or too far forward... That will crush the flint in no time and is usually the cause of very short flint life, which is what seems to be happening for you.

Someone else typed that when in half cock position the flint should be just about touching 3/4 of the way up the frizzen. Good advice.

4F black powder is what I hope you are using in the pan (primer powder). If not, then get some. Sure makes it MO FUN!

 

[mazo kid]

Hi and welcome to the fine sport of flint lock shooting. Don't be frustrated; you will find the right combination and start having LOTS of fun! One thing that should be mentioned is that the flint needs to be held TIGHTLY in the jaws of the lock. If your top jaw screw doesn't have a small hole through it, I would see about drilling one. My top jaw screws have been modified if they already didn't have that hole. It makes it much easier to get the screw tight and you won't booger the screw slot. I just use a small antler tip (wood dowel would work), drill a hole for a nail or some other metal that will fit and epoxy the nail/rod/Allen wrench, etc. in. Try it, you'll like it!

 

[Zoar]

Yes, Mazo is spot on. Flint needs to be TIGHT. It is amazing the difference.

 

[roberthamilton]

might want to look up Rich Pierce on this forum, he sells some white missouri flints that are the best sparkers I have ever used.

Rich's flints spark awesome in my GPR.

 

[tg]

I will toss in another OK to Riches flints, they are very good, keep at it, get some reading material on flints/flintlocks and bone up on the info and in no time it will fall into place, have fun and enjoy the journey :v

 

[Kentuckywindage]

arkansas flints! BLAAAH! those are the biggest pieces of craps ive ever mounted between the jaws of my flinter.

I strictly use Tom Fuller flints.

 

[Onojutta]

I strictly use Tom Fuller flints.

Same here!

 

[CZMark]

arkansas flints! BLAAAH! those are the biggest pieces of craps ive ever mounted between the jaws of my flinter.

I strictly use Tom Fuller flints.

You must be kidding. They work great in my locks.