New to flints

[Celt5494]

just because I am tired of fighting snow, frozen pipes, cars that won't start, and sore feet, I guess i will toss my two drachma's in.
all of the previous advice is good. even the grinch's.
one thing when you do start shooting the gun, if you start getting flash in the pans, try putting a pick in the vent before you drop your powder. leave it there through the entire loading sequence. my GPR with the .54 barrel on likes this method. with the .50 on it never FIP's.
next is get in the habit of wiping the flint and frizzen between shots. i neglected this last year and it cost me a grand bear. klatch is a four letter word for me. three klatches in a row turns me into a sailor.
handy wipes are great for wiping the flint and frissen.

I never thought of using Handy Wipes for the flint and frizzen, genius.

 

[Grenadier1758]

With a flint lock firearm, success is all about the lock. Now the cheap locks can be tuned, often by a professional locksmith, but as Mike's (@Comfortably_Numb) has gained by all his experience, those cheap locks will eventually fail to generate sparks. @Mtman725 needs to find that locksmith that can tune his new lock. The affordable flintlocks can't afford the manufacturing time to properly tune a lock through the polishing, aligning, hardening, tempering and lubricating with the proper tools that most new to flint locks don't have. Sure, a new gun should be ready to shoot right out of the box, but that just ain't so. The original owner needs to perform all those steps to get that new rifle from an assemblage of new parts all slathered in protective grease to become a reliable firearm. That can be done and we are obligated to help.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

That's kinda blunt. We all had to start somewhere. My first ml rifle was a CVA 'sorta kentucky' flinter. Real hunka junka but it taught me to go for better. I used to be a TC not-really-a-hawken-hawken snob. But, fact is that rifle probably made the ml avocation what it is today. Give the guy a chance.

My first gun was a TC it was obsolete and I moved on to my first cobbled together custom with a siler flint in less than a year. The TC was a total waste of time and money fir me.

 

[kyron4]

That's kinda blunt. We all had to start somewhere. My first ml rifle was a CVA 'sorta kentucky' flinter. Real hunka junka but it taught me to go for better. I used to be a TC not-really-a-hawken-hawken snob. But, fact is that rifle probably made the ml avocation what it is today. Give the guy a chance.

Yep, I didn't learn to drive with a new Corvette, but rather a bet up '66 GMC rattle trap rust bucket of a truck. Had to start somewhere.

My Traditions flintlock works for my purposes ; backyard woods walks, informal target shooting , and deer hunting. I'm not shooting a thousand balls a year or competing at Friendship , so for me it's the right gun at the right price. Haven't really had any issues other than a fouled patent breech after several shots in muggy weather. If I had listened to all the trash talk about CVA and Traditions I'd never had gotten into muzzleloading. Probably would took up pottery or knitting.

 

[ETipp]

So, if the lock on a production rifle can be tuned to work reliably, as some have stated in this thread, then what’s the problem?

I’ve been kicking around the idea of getting a flint lock some day but I do not have over 1K to spend on one.

 

[Mtman725]

Thanks guys for all the input, looks like a lock turn will be in order, I can't offered 1,2,3 K flint, So I am starting here and it will shine. As I've seen over 70 years of hunting and shooting, its not the equipment its the men behind the gun.
Shoot Straight

 

[Rum River]

Thanks guys for all the input, looks like a lock turn will be in order, I can't offered 1,2,3 K flint, So I am starting here and it will shine. As I've seen over 70 years of hunting and shooting, its not the equipment its the men behind the gun.
Shoot Straight

I have no idea what other shooters here have had to put up with when they tried a production flintlock rifle.

I can say that my first flintlock is a Lyman GPR in .50 caliber - that I haven't had a bit of trouble with and shoots consistent three to four inch round ball groups at 100 yards. Over the years I have managed two three-shot cloverleafs at 100 yards.

Give your rifle a try and see what it does.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

if the lock on a production rifle can be tuned to work reliably, as some have stated in this thread, then what’s the problem?

The rest of the rifle falls a part. Thats what happened to mine.

A killer lock smith made my 1803 HF run like it never had before. It still had a heavy hammer drop, but fired every time. (After a $150 tune up and spring grind).

The woman and I shot it so much that the brass hardware broke, one after another. So I had to make The Rifle Shoppe's hardware fit.
*********************************************************************************************
To the OP. One thing not covered is using leather to hold the flint. The flints would turn sideways after a few shots.
So I started using lead strips to hold it in place. Worked great on that rifle. So when I built mine I used it to.
I got a screw stuck in my Chamber's lock so I sent it to Jim, with a flint in it.
got my donkey chewed and was told it voids the warranty. So I gave the rest of the lead to a bud who shoots production guns.

Moral of the story is to nap the top of the flints flat so they dont move in the jaws.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Learn how to pressure flake or knap flint. Buy some band-aids while you're at it.

 

[Salty Cracker]

With a flint lock firearm, success is all about the lock. Now the cheap locks can be tuned, often by a professional locksmith, but as Mike's (@Comfortably_Numb) has gained by all his experience, those cheap locks will eventually fail to generate sparks. @Mtman725 needs to find that locksmith that can tune his new lock. The affordable flintlocks can't afford the manufacturing time to properly tune a lock through the polishing, aligning, hardening, tempering and lubricating with the proper tools that most new to flint locks don't have. Sure, a new gun should be ready to shoot right out of the box, but that just ain't so. The original owner needs to perform all those steps to get that new rifle from an assemblage of new parts all slathered in protective grease to become a reliable firearm. That can be done and we are obligated to help.

I wonder how many folks wanted to get into the hobby only to be soured by their first purchase. Putting down the rifle after little to no success convinced flintlocks are slow and unreliable like everyone told them they would be. Not knowing a new gun out of the box needed to be worked on or that there were better options to be had. I can understand most folks don't want to or can't afford to spend a thousand dollars plus to try a new hobby but it's really the reality of it. Everything is expensive today. I personally think Jim Kiblers kits are a great value to a newcomer. Take the time and assemble it properly and you will have a gun that will last your lifetime and retain its value. I've seen fellas time and again buy and sell flintlock rifles chasing that good one. Sometimes these things aren't worth more than the sum of their parts. Every month they have a new gun and lost money on the last one. Could have saved and invested in a custom from a good builder and really had something. Human nature I suppose. I'm sure you all know one of those fellas.

 

[ETipp]

So, if the lock on a production rifle can be tuned to work reliably, as some have stated in this thread, then what’s the problem?

I’ve been kicking around the idea of getting a flint lock some day but I do not have over 1K to spend on one.

Anybody?

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Anybody?

Kibler kit when they are on sale. You'll never regret it.

 

[mojo8672]

Find a friend that will sell you some black powder. The retail prices are crazy and if buying online, there are added shipping fees that jack the price up(unless buying in bulk).

 

[Mad L]

Thanks guys for all the input, looks like a lock turn will be in order, I can't offered 1,2,3 K flint, So I am starting here and it will shine. As I've seen over 70 years of hunting and shooting, its not the equipment its the men behind the gun.
Shoot Straight

Don't sweat what some here are telling you; my first flinter was India made from Loyalist Arms and after 15+ years it only now is having minor issues but I got a gunsmith that don't snob them and he's fixing her up for another 15 or so years.
My second I shelled out a few more $$ and went Pedersoli, which also gets the same snide responses you got on Lyman, and she is still shooting great after 10+ years. I don't do competition but I can still a face into Pumpkin and I usually out score most in our club with their "better" this that and other models.....and mine worked right out of the box.

Now are there Lemons? I guess so.
Are there better then your Lyman and my Pedersoli? They say there is.
Go I someone day hope to own a 2-3K flinter? Heck ya!

Just get yours, learn with it, let the bull go in one ear and out the other, hold onto the useful info, and most of all: Be Safe and Have Fun.

...just wait until you have to ask "How do I get Stuck Ball Out?"
Or what is the best way to clean it?
OR, Heaven to Betsy; "What's the best lube to use?"
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hint: TOW Mink Oil mixed with Bear Oil

 

[Grenadier1758]

Well, that's one good tip for lube. Prepare for several hundred more good tips.

 

[Mad L]

Well, that's one good tip for lube. Prepare for several hundred more good tips.

100s??
Are we losing members??????

 

[Grenadier1758]

I didn't want to say thousands and scare @Mtman725 off.

 

[morehops52]

Don't get discouraged. I've had good days at the range and days where I was ready to trash can my rifle. I have several Lymans and found that the deer are just as dead whether the lead is delivered with a production gun or a 2K dollar Lancaster rifle. I'll add another thing to your list and that is to run some patches with metal polish or bore paste up and down for about a 100 strokes. This will really clean the barrel and polish the bore making loading easier, eliminate cut patches and get you to smaller groups sooner.

 

[Mulebrain]

Look up "Bob's Black Powder Notebook" great info on getting you up and running in flint

 

[Johnny Tremain]

So, if the lock on a production rifle can be tuned to work reliably, as some have stated in this thread, then what’s the problem?

Some can,, some dont. It s pig in the poke buy. Taking a chance with your hard earned money.
DO you feel lucky? Well do ya

Like I said above, the lock got fixed, and the rest of the gun fell a part.