I just received a rifle I won on Gunbroker's and in the process of cleaning it up I saw the clean out screw is a slotted vs. a hex screw. Has anyone seen this before? Is it aftermarket? I haven't been able to get it out yet but I'm soaking it in WD40 at this time. The SN on the barrel is 104351.
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New to me Lyman GPR .54
- Thread starter onthefarm
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On my .54 GPR some previous owner had taken the cleanout screw, and cut a slot in the backside, probably with a Dremel tool and cutoff disk, and then reversed it, so the slotted end shows. I think it looks a little better than the hex head.
The cleanout screw was stuck on mine also, after soaking with penetrating oil didn't work and breaking off a allen wrench in it I but a little heat to it with a propane torch and it came right out.
The cleanout screw was stuck on mine also, after soaking with penetrating oil didn't work and breaking off a allen wrench in it I but a little heat to it with a propane torch and it came right out.
The cleanout screw on the one I just bought has a allen screw, anyone know the thread on this screw ? I will look at it and maybe change mine.
I am waiting for the weekend to cast some roundball, then next week, I will go out and give it a try.
LeeRoy
I am waiting for the weekend to cast some roundball, then next week, I will go out and give it a try.
LeeRoy
I don't know how you are doing this but pull the nipple and drip the penatrant on the inside of the screw and let it soak. That is where most of the "stickage" likely is. I find the PB Blaster found at most auto parts stores is about the best for freeing rusty bolts. WD40 is not much for that purpose.
I like to take them out too. But the word these days is that cleanout screws never really needed to be there and if they're rusted in, it's better to leave them alone.
In the case of the GPR, this may not hold. The cleanout screw in my GPR butts up against the nipple threads and appears to act as a lock screw. If yours is locking the nipple threads, it should probably come out.
I recently acquired an older TC Hawken in good shape. It has a slotted head cleanout screw on the snail. When I went to remove it, half of the slotted head broke away with very little effort on my part. Trying to determine now whether it's worth the effort & risk to drill it out.
In the case of the GPR, this may not hold. The cleanout screw in my GPR butts up against the nipple threads and appears to act as a lock screw. If yours is locking the nipple threads, it should probably come out.
I recently acquired an older TC Hawken in good shape. It has a slotted head cleanout screw on the snail. When I went to remove it, half of the slotted head broke away with very little effort on my part. Trying to determine now whether it's worth the effort & risk to drill it out.
Newbe question.
Should this clean out screw be turned in so far as to engage with the nipple, or should it be left just clear of the bottom of the nipple threads?
In looking at my GPR, I think that I will keep the allen screw in place.
Keep your powder dry.
LeeRoy
Should this clean out screw be turned in so far as to engage with the nipple, or should it be left just clear of the bottom of the nipple threads?
In looking at my GPR, I think that I will keep the allen screw in place.
Keep your powder dry.
LeeRoy
I doubt it seriously. I never knew that screw was there much less was to come out for cleaning. I caught wind of it on here, researched it and discovered I'd been doing it "wrong" all these years :shocked2: . So in my typical fashion I panicked, pulled the screw to inspect the thing and discovered that my typical method of shooting rem oil in the nipple hole all these years (was CLP for a while but I have the Rem-oil now so that's what I use) has kept things shiny and new looking.. :bow: :v
Never taken mine out either, never saw a reason to. AND I don't hate to admit it.MikeF said:
Ken Rummer
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If the screw is long enough to extend into the space inside the snail the protruding threads have been encrusted with BP residue and in trying to remove the screw you are trying to pull the crud back through the threaded hole.
Try turning the screw in a little, just enough to get it to move. Then work it in and out with Liquid Wrench inside the snail. The oil will soften the crud and allow it to be scraped off by the in/out motion.
If this is the problen, it can be prevented by a shorter screw.
Try turning the screw in a little, just enough to get it to move. Then work it in and out with Liquid Wrench inside the snail. The oil will soften the crud and allow it to be scraped off by the in/out motion.
If this is the problen, it can be prevented by a shorter screw.
KV Rummer,
I can see the inside portion and it's not protruding much, and the screw wouldn't move forward or back. It's stuck. I'm going to leave it for now, shoot it a bit and decide if I want to mess with it. It seems from many of the replies that a lot of people just leave it as is. I guess I'll :surrender: . I don't want to keep :dead:
I can see the inside portion and it's not protruding much, and the screw wouldn't move forward or back. It's stuck. I'm going to leave it for now, shoot it a bit and decide if I want to mess with it. It seems from many of the replies that a lot of people just leave it as is. I guess I'll :surrender: . I don't want to keep :dead:
