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New to ML, have a question (1st post)

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hoosier daddy

32 Cal.
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Hi all. I recently purchased a CVA Colorado MusketMag. Had to move quickly on the deal, think I came out good, but have not had much luck with finding any info on this particular model. I know that it was made to use powder pellets and saboted bullets, but not much else. It is a sidelock with a synthetic stock. Anyone ever shoot one, or even hear of it? Thanks in advance all.

Jason
 
Welcome. All I can dig up about it is that it was designed to use a musket cap rather than a #11.

And I found this:
http://hoffmanandwright.com/

"...I was having a devil of a time finding the right bullet for my new CVA Colorado Musket Mag. It's extremely tight and deep grooved barrel at 1:32 twist doesn't like sabots and most conicals were sprinkling left of the round ball groupings. Your ACCU-CHECK bullets hit smack dab on the mark and bone crushing ability made it possible for me to harvest that management buck with a frontal shoulder hit."

- Erv - Columa, Wisconsin


Ewwww. I looked at a conical site. I have to go wash my eyes. :haha:
 
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I've got no information on your rifle. Just wanted to say hi to a fellow Hoosier! I grew up in Jasper County...went to KV High. Welcome to the forum!
 
Trench said:
I've got no information on your rifle. Just wanted to say hi to a fellow Hoosier! I grew up in Jasper County...went to KV High. Welcome to the forum!

greetings, i graduated from north newton in '94.
 
Hello from another Hoosier. Can you post a Pic of your M/L? Sounds a lot like a CVA Bobcat with a faster twist.
 
I think you may have stumped the panel, Hoosier. Not an easy thing to do here. :hatsoff: Never heard of that gun, myself, either. :hmm:

By the way, I'm not a hoosier, but I've had Canadian friends call me a "hoser." Is that close enough? :haha: :blah:
 
here are a couple quick pics.

gun001.jpg


gun3.jpg


have found more info on similar looking cva models (bobcat, greywolf, etc.), but not much on this one. bought it online from a forum site, guy's wife won it in a raffle a few years back, was collecting dust. for $75, seemed like a reasonable start into ml. thanks again for everyone's help.
 
Like the rest, I don't know anything about it except I found the barrel twist and caliber on the web.

Based on the twist I would say I agree that it is intended for bullets or sabots.
I also saw some stuff about it using Musket caps but from the picture you posted it looks like that nipple is for a standard #11 cap.

I can say with great assurance that if this rifle will shoot the pelleted powders, it will shoot loose powder even better.
Because the pelleted powders are synthetic black powder they all are harder to ignite than real black powder so I can also say that of all of the loose powders, real black powder fires best with the least delay.
Black powder is not more difficult to clean than the other powders, soap and water being all that is required.

Because of the fast twist I'm betting the rifling grooves are quite shallow. If so, that may make shooting patched roundballs an iffie proposition.
IMO, they would shoot best with a very tight ball/patch combination like a .495 diameter pure lead roundball and a .018-.020 thick cotton patch.

I mention round balls not just because they are the traditional projectile but because shooting them is quite inexpensive.
For 100 .490 or .495 diameter roundballs expect to pay about $10-$12.
You can make your own patches from some fairly thick 100 percent pure cotton cloth and $4 worth of it will easily make well over 100 patches.
If you decide to try this, look for the blue and white or red and white striped material called "Pillow ticking". It's great stuff for patches.

The roundball throughout history has been proven over and over to be an excellent hunting round if the range is kept to about 120 yards max.

If this gun is like some of the kind we don't talk about on this forum (In-Lines), it will be made to withstand powder charges up to about 120 grains. It might even take a 150 grain powder charge but ever muzzleloader I've seen (which includes some of the modern ones) will shoot much more accurately with smaller powder charges.

As for the power of smaller powder charges used with bullets one only has to think of the Military cartridge that was used for about 25 years, the venerable .45-70. That cartridge used 70 grains of powder and was more than respectable.

Speaking of powder charges I would recommend that you start with a powder load of about 50 grains.
Take a few shots, switch targets and up the load to 60 grains. Repeat this, noting the accuracy.
At some point the groups will start opening up.
When they do, keep increasing the powder load and shooting. Sometimes the groups will improve and sometimes they will get worse but you will only know by trying them.

Again, welcome aboard and post often. :)
 
Zonie said:
I mention round balls not just because they are the traditional projectile but because shooting them is quite inexpensive.
For 100 .490 or .495 diameter roundballs expect to pay about $10-$12.
You can make your own patches from some fairly thick 100 percent pure cotton cloth and $4 worth of it will easily make well over 100 patches.
If you decide to try this, look for the blue and white or red and white striped material called "Pillow ticking". It's great stuff for patches.

You can also use denim from an old pair of blue jeans, it works great and cost nothing, all you need is a pair of scissors and the owner of the jeans to be away from their room for five minutes or so. :wink: :haha:
 
I owned one for a while (sold it 2 mo ago) Handy and light rifle. I had by far the best success with ffg Goex black. Poor ignition with Pyrodex or 777. I think my best loads were 80-90 gr ffg Goex with a 275 gr T/C Maxi Hunter or a 295 gr powerbelt. May print off a manual here: http://www.cva.com/pdfs/Side.pdf I think CVA made that model for one year. Have fun :v
 
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The more I think about it....I remember that 70 grains of 2f black powder was also a very accurate load with these two bullets. I also remember that 100 grains was the absolute maximum. This was a cheap rifle and NOT made for over 100 grains. I'd probably try these bullets at 70 grains of black powder first.
 
thanks for all the tips guys. i do have the original manual, but it is written for all of their sidelocks. it does recommend a max of 100 grains of powder. i have plenty of time to go to the range and experiment before next year, will just have to keep the wife from realizing how many varialbes i can test. :yakyak:
 
Yep varibles and more varibles, Bullets/balls patches /sabots/lubes/ swabing/not swabing between shots/ powder charges/ black / replacement powders loose/ pellets. In fact the more you read about this stuff the more you wonder how we can hit anything.Reminds me of about fifteen years back a close friends son-in-law started shooting black powder after years of competative bench shooting. He could not believe we just dumped powder down the barrel and stuffed a patched round ball down and shot. He insisted you had to weigh each charge from a previously tested lot of powder,use a drop tube, weigh and mic each ball, and mic each piece of patching, etc. We finally convinced him that we were happy with two inch groupings at 100 yds. Not needing to overlap the balls at two hundred yds.
Your gun isn't a fancy custom made high dollar item, but I have seen many local shoots won with CVA's beating high dollar guns. Enjoy what you have and start breathing the black powder smoke. WARNING! it will become addictive.Then after you are addicted you can start to dream about one of those high dollar guns and check out the price of divorce lawyers unless you can get your wife hooked on the smell.
 

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