New to muzzleloading. Lot's of questions.

[trevor.putbrese]

I recently purchased a contemporary flintlock longrifle in .58 caliber at auction. I purchased it for the explicit purchase of having a muzzleloading rifle I could take out to the range along with my modern firearms. I've never actually loaded/fired a muzzleloading rifle before, so naturally I have some questions. I do know the basics. Google has been helpful as well as YouTube. But I still have a few questions I was hoping people on this board could assist with.

1. For a .58 caliber rifle it looks like the diameter of the ball is generally .570. But I've seen a few other options ranging from .560 to .575. I just wanted to confirm .570 is the correct, or generally the most commonly used ball diameter with a .58 rifle.

2. In terms of powder/charge, how many grains powder should I be loading with? At this point, all I'm really looking to do is hit a steel target at 100 yards. have a adjustable measure that can go up to 120g. Is there a table some where that can provide guidance on this based on the grains of the ball?

3. Question about priming powder. I understand you need to use a different, finer powder for the frizzen pan. Where do I purchase that? When I search for "primer powder" on the sites that carry muzzleloading supplies I'm not finding it.

4. Finally, does anyone have any recommendations on a specific type of black powder to use?

Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Grenadier1758]

I recently purchased a contemporary flintlock longrifle in .58 caliber at auction. I purchased it for the explicit purchase of having a muzzleloading rifle I could take out to the range along with my modern firearms. I've never actually loaded/fired a muzzleloading rifle before, so naturally I have some questions. I do know the basics. Google has been helpful as well as YouTube. But I still have a few questions I was hoping people on this board could assist with.

1. For a .58 caliber rifle it looks like the diameter of the ball is generally .570. But I've seen a few other options ranging from .560 to .575. I just wanted to confirm .570 is the correct, or generally the most commonly used ball diameter with a .58 rifle.

2. In terms of powder/charge, how many grains powder should I be loading with? At this point, all I'm really looking to do is hit a steel target at 100 yards. have a adjustable measure that can go up to 120g. Is there a table some where that can provide guidance on this based on the grains of the ball?

3. Question about priming powder. I understand you need to use a different, finer powder for the frizzen pan. Where do I purchase that? When I search for "primer powder" on the sites that carry muzzleloading supplies I'm not finding it.

4. Finally, does anyone have any recommendations on a specific type of black powder to use?

Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

It might help to know the manufacturer and model of the flintlock that you bought. That way you can determine what the manufacturer recommends for the bore size.

1. For ball diameter, start by measuring the bore and subtracting 0.010 from the diameter of the bore. AS a blind guess, 0.570" is good enough for a start with patch thickness of 0.015".

2. When you start out shooting, your first loads should be a load to get familiar with your rifle and as a starting point on the process to get the best accuracy from your gun. Using your volume measure start at 60 grains or 65 if your measure is calibrated in 5 grain increments. While you didn't say what the size of your steel target is, 65 to 75 will make most steel targets ring very nicely. Describe your steel target.

3. You really don't need to use a finer grade of powder to prime. The powder you use for the main charge will work just fine. The finer priming powders such as 4fg are slightly faster, but most of us for casual shooting at a steel target will find only a little difference in performance between using 4fg in the pan or 2fg.

4. You have a 58 caliber gun generally considered large bore and to help maintain breech pressure, I would recommend that you use GOEX 2fg for you load and your prime.

You didn't ask about lubrication of your patches, but you can start using spit to lightly dampen the patch.

Enjoy.

 

[tenngun]

The ball size loaded must be smaller then the bore fitted in to a patch thick or thin. Bigger the ball the thinner the patch material. As you load you will find some combos load easier or harder then others. Some guns shoot best with a smaller ball and thick patch, the opposite for others. Buy a small amount of different sized balls and try them. You may find a .562 with an .18 patch works best, or a .575 with a .08 patch. A .570 will work to start. I had a .50 that took a .490 ball, and a . 50 that works best with a .498 ball, but loads easier with a .495. So that's what I use. You just have to experiment.
Powder charges can run 1/2 to 1/5 the weight of the ball. A .36 may shoot well with a 30 grain charge for about a 60 grain ball. A .50 may shoot well with 60 grains, 1/3 ball weight up to 90, 1/2 weight. A .58 look to 60 grain on the low side up to maybe 100. Your best load most likly be around 70-90 grains.
Shooting with a fine primer powder is a little faster, but when filmed with slo-mo photography it's not so fast humun senses can tell. Most of us prime from our regular powder horn. The important thing in priming isn't the powder but how you fill the pan. Your priming should lay under the bottom of the touch hole.
To work out your gun you just need to sit at a rest and shoot. Different loads and different ball size, even different lubes on your patch.
Be sure to clean and oil your gun well when done that same day. Don't put your gun up with an I'll get it tomorrow
Your in for so much fun.

 

[Larry Pletcher]

Welcome to the world of flintlocks. Here is one guys answers to your questions. Many others will give a bunch of help.

1. A .570 is a good place to start. The actual size will depend on the patch thickness to choose. A .022 patch might work well with a .570 ball. Some guys like a very tight patch/ball combination and use a short starter. In that case a .575 ball, .022 patch, and a short starter would be good.

If you want to load with no short starter and seat the ball with your thumb, then a smaller ball and thinner patch is called for. As you can see, this decision is partly based on what you are comfortable with.

2. I would start with a load 70 grains of ffg as a start. As you work up a load, you probably will increase the load. I could see you ending up around 90 gr ffg or so. Let your gun and the group it shoots guide you.

3. You can prime with any black powder; Rev War soldiers used the same powder as the barrel charge. Personally, I like fine priming powder. I use Swiss Null B, but Goex 4fg is a good choice. Many shooters use what ever is in their horn, rather than carry a priming horn. The discussion is that finer powder is faster, but by a small amount. To some the extra speed out weighs convenience - for others it does not.

4. This last question is the most important. Make sure you use real black powder. The most common are Goex and Swiss - both are fine. Other brands may be mentioned, and are fine --- as long as it is real black powder. DO NOT use BP substitutes in your flint. They do not ignite well in flintlocks. If you were shooting a percussion gun there are more options, but not in a flint.

You may realize that books are written on these questions. I tried to hit the high points. You will get a bunch of useful answers.

Regards,
Pletch

 

[azmntman]

Quite likely yer gonna be an addict very very soon so start saving for the next(s) guns! hehehe

All above excellent advise. WEAR SHOOTING GLASSES, flint shards in the eye can dampen even the best of days. One of the best bits of advise given above for the newbie was to clean after shooting. BP will start corroding the bore before the next day so just do it.

hotoSmile:

 

[Don Steele]

I see you're in Virginia. Rather than trying to provide a complete tutorial here, if you don't know someone already who has experience with blackpowder shooting in general, and especially flintlocks... I'm going to suggest that you contact the National Muzzleloading Rifle Association to determine where the closest club is to you, and/or the closest NMLRA Field Representative.
The best way to learn how to safely enjoy your new rifle is to spend time with someone who can provide face-to-face guidance.
You will get a LOT of help here...and that's all good, but NOT the best way to begin when you're starting from scratch.

 

[tenngun]

There are you tube videos , please don't watch them until you've learned your gun. Most are good, some are manure, few are dangerous and could kill you.
As you learn your gun there are a lot of good instructive vids. Lots of books are avalibale I would recommend Lyman's black powder ballistics with clear loading instructions.

 

[MSW]

welcome to the addictive world of flint shooting!

here's my two cents:

the advice above is good, and you should heed it. additionally, you may want to check out Sam Fadala's book (I think you can get it at Track of the Wolf) and you should get a copy of Dutch Schoultz' method. If you do what Mr. Schoultz tells you to do, your groups will shrink: he guarantees it. (it even worked for me, and I'm the consummate klutz) ...

here's a link
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

another think about Dutch's method is that if you read it over a few times, you will begin to develop an intuitive understanding of what happens after you pull the trigger.

Good Luck on you journey, and

Make Good Smoke! :thumbsup:

 

[jbwilliams3]

Where in Virginia are you?

 

[Khufu]

one thing I have noticed, having hunted the Rocky mountains where it gets REAL cold, the finer ffffg powder ignites better in the -20 deg range, where the ffg sometimes won't flash reliably, and windy weather the ffg stays in the pan better. but generally I use ffffg powder on my rifles, and ffg on my muskets

 

[trevor.putbrese]

Really appreciate all the great information and helpful responses everyone.

So, based on the feedback here, I've purchased .565, .570, and .575 diameter balls, along with some patches of varying widths, and will try a few different combinations to see which shoots best. Also, just picked up some Goex 2F powder as well, and will start out with about 70 grains.

In response to a couple questions:

1. I purchased the rifle at an auction in VA. It's inscribed R. Westgate. According to the CLA site there's a Ross Westgate, so I believe he is the maker, though I'm going to try to contact him to confirm.
2. I live in Northern Virginia, Ashburn specifically. About the only place I know to shoot a black powder rifle is the Cove in Gore, VA, so plan to take the rifle there first and shoot at some steel targets.

It's clear I have a bit more learning to do. Definitely going to pick up a copy of Lyman's book and will take a look at Schoultz's site as well. Thanks again everyone for the help.