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Surely the "BP Only" stamping is because the makers want to cover their backs in any court case where the firer loaded with 777 or Pyrodex or whatever. The ambulance-chasing lawyers are everywhere these days ;-(((((
how would 777 or pyrodex blow up a pistol? what they mean by BP only is not to use smokeless powder
This is correct; the warning does not refer to pure black powder, it’s an abbreviation for “black powder and black powder substitutes” which is what is said in the manuals, wherein loading and volume instructions are given—so let’s at least be thankful they didn’t go fully in the vein of pop-tart instruction diagrams, and spell it out to that degree!

All modern c&b cylinders, as far as I know, are proofed well within withstanding a non-compacted, maximum-charge 777 load. If this is not the case, someone PLEASE correct me.
 
In response to this;
The stamping is cosmetic, while the short arbor is functional (accuracy and how easily the action works). Depends on if you are getting a gun to look at, or a gun to shoot.
That old ‘what just happened’ look as you try to explain how you missed?

Have a recent Uberti Walker that before ‘fixing’ the arbor could be made to shoot over a foot high or low at 50 yards depending on how the wedge was inserted.

The problem with the short arbor is the tendency to drive the wedge in too far, closing the cylinder gap (moving the POI) and jamming the gun. You had to check and make sure the cylinder was moving freely and adjust the wedge before capping. May not seem like a big deal, but when on the clock (SASS for example)…. Not a good deal. Some guns would seem to hang up with just firm thumb pressure. With the arbor the correct length, you could not close up that cylinder gap with a mallet. A quick bump with the pummel of your knife handle and you were good to go.

Checked two different vintage Colts (both with all matching serial numbers) and found both to put .003”/.005” pre-load on the bottom of the frame. To confirm we used shims (.002” to .006”) in the hole in the barrel assembly to find when the barrel and frame made contact. Do not know if that is how the guns left the factory, but that is how the were found 150 plus years later. The most recent Ubertis I have checked had arbors nearly an 1/8” short.
It’s plain untruthful to intimate an Uberti is not a gun to shoot.

Timing and lockwork issues—resulting in peened cylinders, off-center hammer strikes, off-center chamber ignition caused by insufficient cylinder lock up, and, yes, endshake variation—along with loose arbor-seats and poor barrel-cylinder diameter tolerances, are significant to the shootist’s pursuit, some much more so than the arbor issue.
We’ve not even gone into grip shape or ergonomics, and you best count your lucky stars we’re not on that account, too.

Fixing any of these is vastly more of a pain in the rear than dropping in an arbor spacer, no matter how painstakingly and lovingly crafted that spacer may be.

Ubertis, even those made before cnc like mine, are not known to exhibit these problems to anywhere near the degree pre-cnc Piettas had them. I know new Ubertis have only improved upon that.

I lack experience with modern Piettas, so I will refrain to comment, but have heard very good things.

The OP asked about currently manufactured brands, not guns, and used guns are common, competitively priced, and statistically, more likely hand-machined than not.
They also asked which takes the least adjustment to get shooting well out of the box; I would be so bold as to say for both questions, my answer is any Uberti of any age is up to the task with some tinkering, whereas the lion’s share of Pietta guns, especially older ones, will require more tinkering and to wit, are aesthetically worse.
 
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In response to this;


It’s plain untruthful to intimate an Uberti is not a gun to shoot.

Timing and lockwork issues—resulting in peened cylinders, off-center hammer strikes, off-center chamber ignition caused by insufficient cylinder lock up, and, yes, endshake variation—along with loose arbor-seats and poor barrel-cylinder diameter tolerances, are significant to the shootist’s pursuit, some much more so than the arbor issue.
We’ve not even gone into grip shape or ergonomics, and you best count your lucky stars we’re not on that account, too.

Fixing any of these is vastly more of a pain in the rear than dropping in an arbor spacer, no matter how painstakingly and lovingly crafted that spacer may be.

Ubertis, even those made before cnc like mine, are not known to exhibit these problems to anywhere near the degree pre-cnc Piettas had them. I know new Ubertis have only improved upon that.

I lack experience with modern Piettas, so I will refrain to comment, but have heard very good things.

The OP asked about currently manufactured brands, not guns, and used guns are common, competitively priced, and statistically, more likely hand-machined than not.
They also asked which takes the least adjustment to get shooting well out of the box; I would be so bold as to say for both questions, my answer is any Uberti of any age is up to the task with some tinkering, whereas the lion’s share of Pietta guns, especially older ones, will require more tinkering and to wit, are aesthetically worse.
Unfortunately, I am not the only one to have experienced shooting reliability issues with recently manufactured Ubertis new out of the box. Sad, but true. Difficult to recommend after multiple problems with multiple guns over last couple of years. Hopefully things improve.

As an example, check out this post.
Uberti vs Pietta, Not the same old, same old.....This could be news.
 
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None of the the new Ubertis Ive bought in the last few years have short arbors.

Of course!!! You've got to know what your looking for so you'll know when you've found it!!

I just finished up two ( new in the box) personal 1860 Uberti's from 2019 . . . they're just as short arbored as all those before or since . . . just as the two unmentionable Uberti's for a customer. Short arbors are just a part of the Uberti experience.
Mike
 
Unfortunately, I am not the only one to have experienced shooting reliability issues with recently manufactured Ubertis new out of the box. Sad, but true. Difficult to recommend after multiple problems with multiple guns over last couple of years. Hopefully things improve.

As an example, check out this post.
Uberti vs Pietta, Not the same old, same old.....This could be news.
well instead of spending $269 on an Italian pistol you can spend $1100 on a Colt and still have problems
 
Yep, although at the price point of the Italian pistols, the Pietta seem to be doing much better than Uberti offerings. And who has new Colt manufactured open tops for $1100?
Guns International has a lot of them from $899-$9599
 
Guns International has a lot of them from $899-$9599
New in the box open tops? I have seen plenty of vintage used ones, but never noticed any ‘new’ ones. Remember OP was asking about new guns out of the box. If Ruger was still make their version of a cap and ball gun, that would be my suggestion.
 
Just a week ago I had my first NIB, new stock (proofed 2021) Uberti 1862 pocket navy delivered to my door. Out of the box it was ok, but as I’ve done with all of my used revolvers and two other new ones that I bought a few years ago, I deburred and polished all the internal parts and ensured that the bolt won’t peen or leave a ring on the cylinder. The timing was already perfect and now the action is smooth enough for my purposes. The short arbor I have yet to address but dropping a couple of brass washers into the arbor hole just isn’t a big deal. That said…

I also have a Pietta 1860 that I bought about 18 months ago (proofed 2020). Out of the box the action was smooth without the usual work I do to the internal parts. But, my newer Ubertis are a little better, again after I do my thing. As others have noted l really hate Pietta’s name, BP warning and proof marks so deeply stamped into the barrel and in the most visible places. Sooooo, even though I have to spend a little time to work over an Uberti, that’s all I’ll buy now.

And that Pietta will be for sale as soon as I can find an Uberti to replace it.
 
I ha
well instead of spending $269 on an Italian pistol you can spend $1100 on a Colt and still have problems
I have 3 2nd Gen Colts all recently purchased without the factory box, paid $500 for two and $550 for the other. Two purchased off this forum, the 1860 and Pocket Police were unfired, the 1851 beautifully used and looking nicely aged. Good deals are out there, just be patient. I hate all the crap warnings rolled on the barrel, Colts don't have it :thumb:.
 
I ha

I have 3 2nd Gen Colts all recently purchased without the factory box, paid $500 for two and $550 for the other. Two purchased off this forum, the 1860 and Pocket Police were unfired, the 1851 beautifully used and looking nicely aged. Good deals are out there, just be patient. I hate all the crap warnings rolled on the barrel, Colts don't have it :thumb:.
sure as the turning of the earth I knew some one would come on and said they paid less then half of their worth. well at least you did not say you got them all in a garage sale for $15
 
sure as the turning of the earth I knew some one would come on and said they paid less then half of their worth. well at least you did not say you got them all in a garage sale for $15
The lack of a boxes brought them down to a reasonable price. Patience Grasshopper and you won't have to pay for the boxes. YMMV
 
The lack of a boxes brought them down to a reasonable price. Patience Grasshopper and you won't have to pay for the boxes. YMMV
I kept the box on one of the Butterfield commemoratives because it and the pistol were in near perfect condition. The other boxes are not and may be up in the attic somewhere. Someday the kids will find them.
 
I learned to save the original boxes of anything that could possibly become collectible. My family thinks I’m nuts but when they find out that some of the boxes are worth more than what was in them they’ll thank me.
 
This is correct; the warning does not refer to pure black powder, it’s an abbreviation for “black powder and black powder substitutes” which is what is said in the manuals, wherein loading and volume instructions are given—so let’s at least be thankful they didn’t go fully in the vein of pop-tart instruction diagrams, and spell it out to that degree!

All modern c&b cylinders, as far as I know, are proofed well within withstanding a non-compacted, maximum-charge 777 load. If this is not the case, someone PLEASE correct me.
Nope, you're correct. The warning is about black vs smokeless, not black versus subs. If a chamber full of 777 was going to blow one up, we wouldn't have a new Kirst conversion to .45ACP, which runs at 21,000psi. Subs are not an issue, as far as pressure anyway.
 
Nope, you're correct. The warning is about black vs smokeless, not black versus subs. If a chamber full of 777 was going to blow one up, we wouldn't have a new Kirst conversion to .45ACP, which runs at 21,000psi. Subs are not an issue, as far as pressure anyway.
45 acp you say...
I have two 80’s open tops I believe asm ? And a Ruger . I would use the konverter in the Ruger
 
The lack of a boxes brought them down to a reasonable price. Patience Grasshopper and you won't have to pay for the boxes. YMMV
a lot of guys here are in their 70's not much time to sit around and wait for a deal :ghostly:
I kept the box on one of the Butterfield commemoratives because it and the pistol were in near perfect condition. The other boxes are not and may be up in the attic somewhere. Someday the kids will find them.
so the boxes are worth 2-3 times what the actual pistols are worth?
 
a lot of guys here are in their 70's not much time to sit around and wait for a deal :ghostly:

so the boxes are worth 2-3 times what the actual pistols are worth?
Not in the case of the Butterfield revolvers. The gun is usually sold for 5-600 without the box. (Actually a book containing the revolver, and a spare cylinder.) The last one I’m aware of sold for 900 plus the various fees, so probably about 1100.

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