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I measured from the back of the clinder wall to the interior tip of the ramrod on my Walker.

For me, a load of 30gr FFFG, a Wonder Wad and a .454 ball is the minimum thickness necessary for the ball to be seated at all given the length of the loading lever.

If I want to shoot less than 30 for some reason, I need filler or I'm leaving air space in there.
 
If you want to use a lighter load, just seat the ball with the rammer as usual. Then place a .36 caliber ball over the seated ball and ram again.
I generally use 55 grains of GOEX fffg in my Walkers and never bother with light loads. For light loads I use my '60 Armies. None of my Walkers drops its lever with the 55 grain load.
 
I am working a Walker kit right now. I am not trying for absolute historical accuracy, but I just heard that the original cylinders were left white. Is this accurate? All the original Walkers I've seen (yeah, all three) didn't have enough of anthing left on them to judge this. I think it would be a nice contrast to the case hardening and charc blue.
 
Yep-one of my Colt history books states that Walkers had blued barrels, case hardened frames and cylinders left in the white. So I pulled some swimming pool acid off of the shelf, cut it 50% with water, and dunked the cylinder. 4 or 5 minutes later, it was was removed, rinsed REALLY well, oiled back up and put back into the pistol.

I do like the looks of it! :thumbsup:

By the way, a period repair for the rammer drop is a figure 8 cut from thin leather. Big loop over the barrel, little loop over the end of the rammer.
 
Doc Arroyo said:
cylinders left in the white. So I pulled some swimming pool acid off of the shelf, cut it 50% with water, and dunked the cylinder. 4 or 5 minutes later, it was was removed, rinsed REALLY well, oiled back up and put back into the pistol.

By the way, a period repair for the rammer drop is a figure 8 cut from thin leather. Big loop over the barrel, little loop over the end of the rammer.

Your procedure brought up a good "safety issue" that while I am not 'totally' 100% sure about--I did get this from a trustworthy reliable source.

Always neutralise that acid bath completely, as a chemical engineer friend of mine told me that there is something called "hydrogen embrittlement" that can occur from too long an exposure to Hydrochloric Acid (a.k.a. Muriatic Acid or Concrete Etching Solution). It could cause tiny fissures in the metal which would turn to cracking of the metal and possibilities for some really nasty blow-ups.

You said that you rinsed it REALLY well, so hopefully that took care of the potential for later problems. So this isn't necessarily something that is meant as a *** at you, but more of a safety issue.

BTW, I REALLY liked the leather/rawhide figure-eight retainer fixfor the Walker ram/lever. That is a slick fix and it would look right too. I had read that somewhere (Can't Remember Stuff anymore--suffering from CRS), and forgot about it-- after I didn't have my Walker any longer!

Now that I'm saving to get a Walker (hopefully an Uberti Kit), I will have to try that little tricky fix out and leave my cylinder in the white.

Thanks for the info about the bare metal cylinders and the leather loops. I appreciate the knowledge exchange here very much! It's great to find these things out BEFORE we run into problems.

Regards, and Shoot Safely!
WV_Hillbilly
 
I guess that I sometimes forget to spell out all the steps...cuz I hate to type! :)

It only takes few minutes to cut the blueing. Then I rinse, and rinse again. Soak in baking soda paste, scrub and then rinse again. Then I soaked it in oil.

If I get a chance I will post a picture tonight.
 
One of these days I'm gonna feel really strong and shoot a CAS match with these! :thumbsup:
Walkers_small.jpg
 
Yes, Doc, very nice. Doesn't change the visual proportions of the parts at all. I am thinking of making a squeeze clip out of spring steel if my rammer starts to fall under fire, kind of like a lever action barrel/magazine band.
 
:grin: Just for the record; I have a four number Walker made a long time back by Replica Arms El Paso Texas. Bought it in 1960 and it is still unfired. Hows thay for will power. I figure that it will be a prime collectable soon, I hope!!!
 
lonesomebob: Don't go spending all of your money before you get it.

I hate to be the one to say it, but, there aren't very many collectors of old reproduction guns.
Your Walker is worth more than the amount you paid for it but not by very much (even if it is unfired).

Prices vary with location but you would be doing good to get $280 for it here in Arizona.
 
Just shot a new Uberti Walker for the first time and have some preliminary results
Since the image posting feature is disabled here, here's a link:[url] http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=168811[/url]
 
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