Newbie question: How do I sharpen the flint?

[Legionnaire]

Second time out with my flintlock yesterday ... a Lyman Trade Rifle in .50 caliber. It was great fun, and plenty accurate at 50 yards. However, it eventually stopped sparking. Once I reversed the flint, I had great spark and the lock time seemed noticeably faster. So evidently a dull flint was the problem.

So how does one sharpen a flint? Any/all help appreciated!

 

Sounds like you might be using some of those sawed agate flints. You might try some black English, or Rich Pierce flints. Though the agate works, I'm not a fan, as they don't work very long, and are hard to sharpen, as they don't knap well. A regular flint is knapped by flaking with a small metal object, preferably not ferris by pushing or striking against the edge to be sharpened.

Bill

 

[ebiggs1]

You probably are using a cut agate "flint" because natural flints usually are not reversible. Get some hand knapped flints and it will open a whole new world in flintlock shooting.

 

[Rifleman1776]

To answer the question: you can 'knap' the edge by tapping on it with a metal object. It takes practice but is normal procedure when shooting flint. Have several extra flints on hand at all times. If you are knapping while the flint is on the gun, be very sure you do not have a charge in the barrel or be pointed downrange safely. Support the hammer so you don't strain the sear while whacking on the flint. You are going through the labor pain stage of becoming a flint shooter.
And, BTW, I have used sawn agate flints for decades and find they last a long-long time. And, they can be knapped to be used as a regular flint. Some people have diamond wheels used to resharpen them. I never did that.

 

[Zonie]

I'm going out on a limb here and assuming that you might not know how to tell a "cut agate" from a real flint so I'll just say if it looks like a rock with fairly uneven surfaces on it, it is a flint. If it has smooth sides that look like they were machined it is either ceramic or a "cut agate".

Real flints are pretty easy to knap (form or sharpen).
Because of their nature applying pressure to a fairly thin area will cause a small flake to break off leaving a razor sharp edge.

This small flake can be made by just applying some firm pressure in a very small zone pushing towards a flat side.
It can also be done by using a metal object and tapping on the dull edge of the flint.
Either way, the force should be perpendicular to the surface you want to keep and applied right at the edge.

The ceramic or cut agate's are much more difficult to try to knap. They don't have the same weak faults built into them that a real piece of flint has. In fact with ceramic, trying to knap it will usually end up in just breaking it into several pieces.

The ease of resharpening a real flint is one of the reasons they have always been popular both for use in firearms and, when used with a "steel" for starting fires.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Here is a little over-view on sharpening a flint.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showpost.php?post/1012087/

 

[Valley Forge]

I'm no expert. I have a Lyman GPR, and have fired about 100 shots and that's the sum total of my flintlock experience. So, as you can see, I'm no expert.

I am still using the same cut agate flint that came with the rifle when I got it in January. 100 shots. I have found it generally works best bevel down, but when that got dull, I turned it bevel up and went on shooting. Then when that got dull, I turned the whole flint around, bevel down and fired some more shots. then when that got dull, turned it bevel up, etc. Have turned it around again and am approaching the end of this flint's usefulness, slowly, very slowly. 100 shots fired, still with the first flint, and a cut agate one at that! And, that 100 shot count doesn't even take into account a dozen or more flash in the pans from before I drilled out the touch hole to 5/64. Not bad for a flint that is not supposed to work well or for very long.

 

[Legionnaire]

Yes, this is no doubt cut agate. I'll pick up some "real" flints next opportunity I get. Thinking I might go at this one with my Dremel and diamond cutting wheel to see if I can get a bit more life out of it. I do have a couple more of the agate flints to use in the meantime. Thanks!

 

[Rifleman1776]

You probably are using a cut agate "flint" because natural flints usually are not reversible

Please give an example of an un-natural flint. :idunno:
Flints, cut and knapped are made single edge and double edge. Both can be mounted bevel up or bevel down.

 

[Rifleman1776]

The ceramic or cut agate's are much more difficult to try to knap. They don't have the same weak faults built into them that a real piece of flint has

Except for ceramic, cut and knapped flints are made from the same kinds of materials. Sharpening cut flints by knapping is no different than any other kind of flint (except ceramic).

 

[sniper68]

Except for ceramic, cut and knapped flints are made from the same kinds of materials. Sharpening cut flints by knapping is no different than any other kind of flint (except ceramic).

Right on. :thumbsup:
Here's a pic of cut ceramic, knaped flint and cut flint.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Note on grinding a flint with a Dremel, diamond or Mizzy Wheel. There a disease called silicosis (Potter's Rot) that is caused by inhaling such dust. Make sure to wear a mask or, like I do, exhale on the cuts and mind the exit path of the dust.

I work my "humpies" flat with a Mizzy wheel in my Dremel. Never tried dressing the edge that way.

 

[Mickc01]

In addition to keeping to keeping it sharp, one thing that hasn't been mentioned is wiping the flint. The underside of the flint tends to get fowled really quickly and needs claeaning often. I've made it a habit to wipe the edge of the flint with nearly every shoot just before prming. you can use your finger tips or better, a spare patch, just be careful not to cut yourself.

 

[Rifleman1776]

In addition to keeping to keeping it sharp, one thing that hasn't been mentioned is wiping the flint. The underside of the flint tends to get fowled really quickly and needs claeaning often. I've made it a habit to wipe the edge of the flint with nearly every shoot just before prming. you can use your finger tips or better, a spare patch, just be careful not to cut yourself.

You forgot to mention that, then, you have to lick your fingers to keep them clean. :wink:
Tastes awful. DAMHIK :redface:

 

[ebiggs1]

Please give an example of an nu-natural flint.

Boy folks are certainly critical on this forum! :hmm: The word “natural” in this sense refers to nature. Therefore the word “un-natural (sp)” is not an antonym. An example of this usage is:

Gray hair is one of the natural consequences of getting older.

Natural flints are knapped along natural fault lines already occurring in nature. Cut agate is further refined and sawed to shape them.

”¦ made single edge and double edge.

I don't have any “double edge” flints so I don't know what this is.

Both can be mounted bevel up or bevel down

Never disputed this.

 

[ebiggs1]

... 100 shots fired, still with the first flint, and a cut agate one at that! ...

100 shots on an agate is not only a rare accomplishment, it is a miracle. :hatsoff:

 

[Rifleman1776]

Please give an example of an nu-natural flint.

Boy folks are certainly critical on this forum! :hmm: The word “natural” in this sense refers to nature. Therefore the word “un-natural (sp)” is not an antonym. An example of this usage is:

Gray hair is one of the natural consequences of getting older.

Natural flints are knapped along natural fault lines already occurring in nature. Cut agate is further refined and sawed to shape them.

”¦ made single edge and double edge.

I don't have any “double edge” flints so I don't know what this is.

Both can be mounted bevel up or bevel down

Never disputed this.

Your personal definition of "natural" and "un-natural" flints is in error. The same "natural" materials can be either sawn or knapped.
This pic is of two styles of double-edged flints. I have had knapped flints done similarly. But, these days well knapped flints are extremly scarce and I haven't seen any for sale for a while.
BTW, your comment about sawn flints not giving many shots is grossly opposite my experience. I have used Gunter Stifter sawn flints for more than 30 years and love them both for good sparking and very-very long life.
While on the subject, I will acknowledge flint performance is highly variable among different guns, actually locks. The geometry of the lock, the hardness of the frizzen face and even the quality of the steel in the frizzen affects flint performance of both knapped and sawn gun flints. The lock I most used them in was a large Siler.

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[tg]

I would agree with getting some nice English flints and staying away from the modern cut stuff, just as well do it like it was in the past, often more satisfcation is gained if one learns the old ways, lots of methods for sharpening with pressure or percussuion and the end result is the same you will have to see which method works best for you, the main thing in my opinion to remember is that a little is better than a lot most of the time, very often one justs needs to even up the edge with a few taps here and there, there are several inexpensive publications on the topic as well as on-line tutorials as I recall, it will come quite quickly, after all people not to far removed from our vine swinging ancestors did it over 50,000 tears ago, do use caution and gloves & eye protection as there are few things on this earth sharper than flint and obsidian, good luck and enjoy the journey. PS If you find the info on making "spalls" which is a less refined style of gunflint you may try these they are easier to make and often you may have three working edges on a single flint, these are basically a thin edged "flake" that fits in the jaws of a particular gun, kinda oblongish in shape and may need some minor shape tuning before use.many times yopu have to sacrifivce an edge of two to get the right size for the lock, and one can use less "perfect" sized/shaped raw material for this type than the English style

 

[Legionnaire]

Thanks, all; this is all very informative and helpful ... not to mention fun to read!

 

[Rifleman1776]

modern cut stuff

If that is a reference to sawn flints, researchers will find they have been used for centuries. Granted, they were probably only found in fine presentation grade firearms but they were made and used 'back then'. The current supplier I use has been in business for 40+ years. Unlikely he would still be at it if the product was unsatisfactory.