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Newbie Question

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TXnorton

32 Cal.
Joined
May 16, 2009
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Hello all:

I have gradually worked my way backwards in time from smokeless to BP Cartridges, then to percussion cap rifles and pistols, and now I have a brand new Cabela's Blue Ridge/Pedersoli Frontier Flintlock in .54 caliber.

I have a newbie (to flintlocks) question that has to do with cleaning the rifle after a shoot.

I use one of those brass adaptor/plastic tube rigs on my percussion Hawken where I remove the nipple and screw in the tube adaptor and put the tube end in a very hot water/balistol mixture and swab up and down the bore with a wet patch.

This really cleans up the bore in short order on the Hawken. I always thorougly dry the barrel and then swab it liberally with bore butter afterwards.

Now on the flintlock the vent hole is right at level of the pan, so getting to the vent hole screw would require removing the barrel from the stock.

My question is can I remove the sidelock to facilitate cleaning by simply removing the retaining bolt/nut from the other side of the rifle and lifting the entire lock plate assembly off? I have never played with removing a sidelock action from this type of firearm, so I am a bit leery of doing this without some experienced advice first.

Thanks in advance,

TXnorton
 
Yes, most of the "modern" flintlocks have only one lock bolt/screw. Take that out and your gun's lock should be free. If it doesn't want to budge, start the screw back in and then tap on the head of the screw with a wooden screwdriver handle or some like that. Tapping on the screwhead should loosen the lock. Many of the more authentic flintlocks have two lock screws. If your gun has two screws, be sure to remove them both.
 
Another thing to think about if it has two screws is the forward screw might be grooved because it passes through the ramrod channel. So for the first time at least remove the ramrod before you take that screw out. If it doesn't have a groove you don't have to worry about it.

However, I'm pretty sure that the Blue Ridge only has one screw. My buddy's first front stuffer was a Blue Ridge. However I think that screw does pass through the tang so don't try to take the barrel off with out removing that screw.
 
the lock (like they said) will come right out,, you're not planning on removing the touch hole for cleanin the barrel, are ya? having not ever used the plug adapter barrel cleaner ain'tsure if that'll work on a flinter... :confused:
 
TX,
You make me jealous :cursing: . I wanted to get one of those .54 Blue Ridge flinters when they first came out. That is about the same time pedersoli jacked up their prices, so I passed. I do have a .45 Blue Ridge flinter that is a great shooter. You should remove the lock to clean everytime you clean your rifle. Besides the lock bolt there is a small wood screw in front of the frizzen spring that needs to be removed. Afterwards, the lock comes out easily. Even though some say not to, I remove the barrel for cleaning. Just have to be carefull when you replace those small screws under the barrel so you don't cross thread them. I've had my Blue Ridge for over 15 years and never had a problem. I did replace the front sight with a thin silver blade. It gives me a better sight picture. You are going to enjoy that rifle....you lucky dog :wink: :thumbsup:
 
I just bought a Blue Ridge in .50 cal. It has two sideplate screws. The one main one that you remove from the left side of the gun, then there is a small secondary one at the very front of the lock. This one is a short wood screw.
 
The easiest way to clean a flintlock is to remove the lock and plug the vent with a toothpick. Then just pour some hot water down the barrel and dump it out 2-3 times. Run some patches down the barrel to dry it then an oil patch. Good as new. This can usually be done with one beer!
 
You might have got away with not removing your lock on a percussion gun after a range session, but it's a must when shooting a flintlock. BP residue will find it's way to the inside of the lock plate after a range session. Plus, you'll want to clean-out and relubricate the tumbler and sear for fastest lock times.
 
Forgot they didn't use barrel pins on those guns. I remember now that those barrel screws were a royal PITA, better to leave em alone then to booger em up.

Edited to add: Well one was, the other wasn't bad. But the first time we took the barrel out a screw did get a little chewed up. It was in there very very tight.
 
I always remove the lock on my flintlocks when cleaning. It is easier to clean the lock up and get to the gunk on the side of the barrel. On my rifles without hooked breeches I just run soapy patches down the barrel until it is clean. Four or five will clean up the barrel nicely. I tie a shop towel or paper towel around the touch hole when I clean. It catches the barrel cleaning stuff that would run out.

Pedersolis have a small ignition chamber on their patent breeches. You should get down into this with a .22 brush with a patch wrapped around it to clean it out. If you don't do it the rifle will start to have trouble going off as the chamber gunks up.
 
You mentioned that you use a nipple adapter and plastic tube for cleaning your caplock(s).
There's something like that available for flinters, too; you take the lock off, and there's a C-clamp-like affair that fits around the barrel, with a rubber gasket that you tighten on over the touch hole, with the tubing attatched to it.
Look for it in the muzzleloading catalogs.
 
Track sells them. Works great on octagon barrels and with a little patience I can sometimes use it to clean my bess.
 
Thank you all for the helpful responses. I am going to buy one of the "clamp-on" type tube/adaptor cleaning rigs for this rifle. But now knowing that I can easily remove the lockplate asembly (and I see that I actually should remove it for a good cleaning) makes the prospect of cleaning this rifle a whole lot better. I hope to shoot it for the first time this week-end.
 
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