Nipple rusted in place.

[BEP]

Here's my problem - I bought a M1816 Harpers Ferry musket that has been converted to percussion using the Belgium/cone in barrel method. Try as I might, I cannot get that nipple out. I've been using mild heat and aerokroil applied two or three times a day for eleven days now and it won't budge. The shoulders of the nipple are worn so a regular nipple wrench slips. I've been using a small pair of vise grips that grasp that nipple very well but it still won't move.

So to the question - I need a penetrating solution to stand the breech of the musket in - one that I could just leave it in for a couple of weeks or so. I realize that Kroil would be ideal but it is not sold locally, and I've read of other homemade mixtures that are reported to work almost as well. But I can't recall the ingredients. Acetone and automatic transmission fluid come to mind but I'm not sure if those were the ingredients and I have no idea on proportions if those are correct.

So help would be appreciated. As I said, I would like to stand the barrel up past the nipple in the solution in a metal coffee can or a tall glass jar, seal the top with a makeshift seal, maybe using aluminum foil and duct tape or something and just let it work for a week or two. Any ideas?

 

[ZUG]

I think the ratio of acetone to automatic transmission fluid is 50/50 and I have a rubbermaid bread container (approx 4"X 4"X 16") that I sometimes use to immerse my Hawken barrel in to soak the breach give it a try may work for you :thumbsup: .

 

[theoldredneck]

It is 50/50 mix. I buy a quart of each and mix in a gallon jug. It wants to separate so shake it, let it sit and shake again a few times. I keep some in a small spray bottle and some in a coffee can. I would soak it and tap it with a small hammer.rust can literally fuse metal together. I have learned that being patient often saves threads. When it breaks loose work it back and forth a little at a time. Then chase the threads with a bottom tap.

 

[don hepler]

Also, in addition to all of the mentioned, a sharp rap with a piece of metal and hammer, will sometimes break the threads loose. However, it would be a two person job, and dangerous, safety glasses and caution would be highly recommended.

 

[Va.Manuf.06]

Drill it out.

 

[BEP]

Drill it out.

The problem with drilling it out is that the metal is so darned hard. I bought an easy-out and the corresponding drill bit; the bit is "black oxide" which the manufacturer claims to be better than high speed steel bits. It won't touch that nipple, just spins against it in my drill press.

 

[sleeperNY]

It could be a left turn drill bit if it was made for easy outs.

Jim

 

[BEP]

It could be a left turn drill bit if it was made for easy outs.

Jim

Jim - It's a right-turn bit to drill the hole that the left-turn easy-out gets inserted into. It just doesn't want to drill that nipple.

 

[Terry Fairchild]

Sneezy,
If you can access an oxy/acetylene toch with a small welding tip, try to heat the round part of the nipple to about an orange color and try to screw it out. By heating the end of the nipple with a concentrated heat (small welding tip) the barrel won't get too hot. If it won't screw out while hot, let it cool and try. After heating the nipple orange and slow cooling, it should be annealed enough to allow drilling as a last resort.

 

[Va.Manuf.06]

Interesting. I have drilled a fair number of US military nipples out in the past and have never had a problem but there is always an exception.

You might try Mr. T's suggestion but heat the seat (bolster). No need to heat to red or even orange, just get it hot, then let it cool. Once cool enough to touch try to remove it. And I have to add - be absolutely sure that the gun is not loaded before applying heat to anything, bolster or cone. But, of course, you already knew that.... :wink:

 

[sleeperNY]

I just thought I would mention that because I have a set of easy outs and they all have a left turn drill bit with them. It sometimes even removes the bolt or what ever you are trying to get with just the drill bit. I hope you get it with out any damage.

Jim

 

[AZbpBurner]

Freeze the nipple/breech in a mix of chunks of dry ice and alcohol. Cooling the metal makes it contract - tap the nipple to break it loose.

 

[BEP]

Thanks to all for some fine suggestions. Here's what I've done; the breech well past the nipple is standing in an acetone/ATF mixture. It's in an olive jar - tall and narrow - so it was easy to seal the gap between the top of the jar and the barrel. I marked a line with a felt marker where the liquid level is so I can keep an eye on it to make sure that not too much acetone evaporates over time because I'm going to let it stand in the mixture for one month. I'll shake the jar daily because that mixture does seem to want to separate. If at the end of that month the nipple still won't budge I'll go the annealing and drilling out route.

Thanks again for all of the help. This forum is a great resource. I post seldom but visit here every day and have learned a lot over the years.

 

[jerrywh]

First- make darn sure it isn't loaded. I know you already did Right? Even a 1300° down at the muzzle will not hurt a barrel. Heat the nipple red hot for at least three or four minutes. The idea is to get the threads red hot or make them expand. Don't try and remove it when it is hot . It will probably twist off. Just let it get completely cold without quenching it. Then freeze it if you can. Then let it get to room temp and try to remover it With penetrating oil on it. 90% of the time this works great but if it doesn't it will at least anneal I to the point that it can be drilled out. If you have to drill it use the left hand drill trick the other guy told us about .

 

[M. De Land]

I wonder if it has been solder/sweated in place? This is done on occasion when threads are sloppy to make things tight and provide a seal. MD

 

[kaintuck]

aahhhh....poot!
I thought this thread was about Paris getting old....... :stir:

 

[Stonevievneilson]

If the soaking doesn't work, and you are sure it isn't loaded then heat is a good idea. I would heat he area around he nipple to a heat that doesn't change the colour. Then spray locktite freeze lubricant down thought the nipple. He idea being that the heat will expand the female part of the thread and the freeze spray will shrink the male thread. Then give a sharp blow with a small hammer. Then grip with vice grips and gently work back and forth. Good luck.

 

[eaglesnester]

get yurself some Kroil. I live in Canada and it is almost impossible to find in this country. Had to do an internet search and had to order it off the net. Kroil will get into spaces as small as 1 millionth of an inch or so they say.

 

[BEP]

Just to clarify; I did check the musket when it arrived to see if it was loaded and guess what - it was! Using a ball puller and an auger-style home rigged tool I removed buckshot (about 00 size) felt wadding and some somewhat degraded powder. I emailed the seller (GunBroker) to let them know and they thanked me for the heads-up. This is the third Civil War era musket that I've purchased in the last few years that arrived loaded. Always check.

 

[newtewsmoke]

Just to clarify; I did check the musket when it arrived to see if it was loaded and guess what - it was! I emailed the seller (GunBroker) to let them know and they thanked me for the heads-up.

wow, they thanked YOU for the heads up?, nice. :hmm: