Nipple Shields

[deanscamaro]

Okay, need some opinions (more than one, because I know how opinions are like a______s, everyone has one). I'm the newbie, just starting to shoot my Pennsylvania Carbine Scout 50 caliber. It came with a nipple shield. I acquired a straight Tedd Cash capper and suddenly discovered yesterday, while out shooting with my grandson that it is almost as cumbersome to reach down into that shield and put a cap on with that capper as it is to do it by hand. Are those shields really that needed and would I be just as safe without it?

:hmm:

 

[mazo kid]

The shields will HELP to keep cap fragments out of your face. I made a couple for my percussion guns (which I seldom shoot anymore). You could file or grind a depression toward the front/right side just deep enough to enable you to recap. That way, any fragments would still be directed away from you. My 2 cents worth.

 

[jtmattison]

I tried them a couple times. I had the same capping problem so I tossed them.
Your hammer face should have a depression in it and maybe a notch cut out of the front to direct cap fragments away from you.
The flash cup is made to keep your stock from getting messed up.
I don't like them and find them unnecessary.

HD

 

[silverfox]

I think you got good answers. The only shields I have tried gave me the same problems you got. They do keep the blase away from your stock wood other than that they are a pain. I took mine off. My hammers do have a slot cut in the front of the nose to direct blast forward and also help split the cap for removal from the nipple. Problem was worse when I tried one on and underhammer.
Fox :hatsoff:

 

[deanscamaro]

Thanks Mazo Kid and everyone else. I am going to try your idea of filing (already did it) and keep the shield on for awhile (should have thought of that myself). If I have any more problems (besides already having one getting the nipple threaded straight with the shield there) I am going to junk it. Filing gave the capper access, so I am going from here. Thanks to all!!

:v :v

 

[DVanVorous]

Been my experience that iffen the hammer is built right (reasonably deep pocket with room for the cap to expand), one really doesnt need a shield except mebee to protect the stock some (if that).

My T/C does "OK" with the caps during detonation but my homebuilt Hawken with an L&R seems to do a fine job keeping stuff where it belongs as it more than covers the nipple and the cap.

Keep yer powder dry,

D.

 

[huntman58]

I use one and on three other rifle do not. I have no trouble capping with it using my in line capper for #11 caps. I do know I wondered the same thing tell I rebuild my rifle. When doing the rebuild I found the wood burnt not just scorched between the nipple and the wood above the lock. It had burned some even away. Nothing that was to bad but enough for me to see a good reason to also use one. I do not shoot like I used to. Back in the day I was out shooting at lest every other weekend year round and that was only for competition. There was a lot of shooting for fun and target work between the shoots. So with a lot and I do mean a lot of shooting I would say they could be useful with normal shooting I would say you could get away with out one. I would modify mine before I just did away with it but that’s just what you asked for a personal opinion and like you said every one has one and I know I do LOL.

 

[CoyoteJoe]

If you look at old original percussion guns you will nearly always find the wood burned away from the cap blast and left handed shooters with right handed guns will often get burned on the inside of the right wrist. That is where the cap guards really help. The deep cup style is not needed nor desirable, they sometimes redirect the blast back toward the shooters face. The wide shallow dish style work better, although some modification to fit the gun is nearly always needed.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Once of the reasons the cups are made from brass is that they are easier to file! Take a file to it to modify it to your gun, and what you need to do. You have received very good advice already from members here about how it should perform, and be modified. I put the cups under the nipples on a shotgun, but found that they interfered too much with operating the gun. I removed them, but still have them. I have not fiddled with modifying them as the flash has not charred or burned wood on the shotgun. Now, when I was shooting a percussion rifle, the flash did burn the wood, and on that gun, I did modify a flashcup to protect the wood.

Another club member made a rawhide strap he sewed wet to the stock with a hole in it to fit over the nipple. That protected his wood, until the rawhide burned through. Then he made another strap. Using rawhide, the leather strank up tight to the wood. I admired his " homemade cure", but didn't like the idea that it prevented the removal of the sidelock for ordinary cleaning and maintenance.Until its removed, its anyone's guess what its doing to the wood finish or the finish on the lockplate.

 

[Jerry Coffee]

Toss the nipple shield and use the cheap plastic safety glasses that are available at any tool and hardware store. I keep those glasses in my shooting box but I don't use them as often as I should.

 

[deanscamaro]

Thanks, everyone for your input. I have filed the shield (I wasn't thinking or should have known that) and may remove it if I have anymore problems with it. I already wear glasses when shooting so that is covered. If it does protect the wood, maybe that is one good reason for keeping it.

:v :grin:

 

[paulvallandigham]

I don't think that plastic glasses do much to protect the wood of the stock around the nipple from burning, Nor does it keep bits of cap from hitting your wrist, on occasion.( more often if you are LHed, and shooting a RHed percussion lock gun. You RHed shooters ought to try shooting a LHed percussion lock sometime, without a flash cup( nipple shield) to experience this novel pain!)

 

[huntman58]

I don't think that plastic glasses do much to protect the wood of the stock around the nipple from burning, Nor does it keep bits of cap from hitting your wrist, on occasion.( more often if you are LHed, and shooting a RHed percussion lock gun. You RHed shooters ought to try shooting a LHed percussion lock sometime, without a flash cup( nipple shield) to experience this novel pain!)

:nono: been there done that did some :cursing: then :surrender: and went back to my gun.

 

[Jerry Coffee]

I have not worn safety glasses on my wrist yet, but I will give anything a try if it helps.
I don't give a damn about scorching the wood or pieces of percussion caps hitting my wrist. You should worry more about losing your eyesight than scorching the stock.

Safety glasses are designed where they are large enough to be worn over regular prescription eye glasses because regular prescription eye glasses are not enough eye protection from flying pieces of percussion caps.

 

[Rancocas]

Okay, I read this thread yesterday and was able to resist. I can't resist again.

"Nipple shield" - that's what Bouncing Betty wears while working at the Bikini Club. Her's have little tassels that she can make spin like airplane propellers.

Now, if you mean flash shields, they protect the stock wood and also the shooter's eyes. However, I myself don't use them.

I'm just joshing, boys. :grin:

 

[deanscamaro]

You can sure tell where your mind is.
:nono: :shake: :nono: :shake:

 

[renovato]

Looks like they are a love 'em or hate 'em thing. I use them and haven't had any major problems capping, but I usually cap with my fingers anyway.

The first muzzleloader I ever got, a .44 double barrel pistol, has the wood burned away badly near both nipples. I wish I had known of flash guards back then, if they even made them (mid '70's). I'd suggest using them if you can make them work for you. They keep the gun looking good a lot longer.

 

[grant]

I have a shield and mine is angled. I got it from TotW. I turn the "high" side in towards the barrel which allows me to cap from the side with my capper.

 

[Coot]

Once of the reasons the cups are made from brass is that they are easier to file! Take a file to it to modify it to your gun, and what you need to do. You have received very good advice already from members here about how it should perform, and be modified. I put the cups under the nipples on a shotgun, but found that they interfered too much with operating the gun. I removed them, but still have them. I have not fiddled with modifying them as the flash has not charred or burned wood on the shotgun. Now, when I was shooting a percussion rifle, the flash did burn the wood, and on that gun, I did modify a flashcup to protect the wood.

Another club member made a rawhide strap he sewed wet to the stock with a hole in it to fit over the nipple. That protected his wood, until the rawhide burned through. Then he made another strap. Using rawhide, the leather strank up tight to the wood. I admired his " homemade cure", but didn't like the idea that it prevented the removal of the sidelock for ordinary cleaning and maintenance.Until its removed, its anyone's guess what its doing to the wood finish or the finish on the lockplate.

Picking up on the leather protector Paul described, when I was shooting a cap lock squirrel rifle I was starting to get a bit of char in the stock by the nipple. I made a protector by using a piece of leather (not rawhide) a bit under 1/8" thick with a pair of thin leather straps tied to it. I punched a nipple sized hole in the leather & tied it in place covering the wood by the nipple. No more charred wood and just untie to clean the gun. I think that I got the idea from an old Dixie Gun Works catalog.

 

[horsesoldier03]

You might want to try loosening the nipple a bit and then turn the shield so that it allows you better access. When I first got mine, I had a hard time trying to put caps on the nipple. However once I turned it a bit, I have no issues any more, and I like how it protects the wood from the flash and powder residue.