No forcing cone on Cabelas .44 Navy

[sundog]

I bought one of the Cabelas .44 Navy's. I was going to take it to the range today but whyle doing a good cleaning of the shipping oil I noticed the barrel had NO Forcing cone.

There is a slight chamfer on the chambers in the cylinder and that chamfer is more than there is on the barrel. Where there should be a visable forcing cone there is simply a slight chamfer.

Im thinkin that I ought to put in a 60 deg cone about 1/8th deep.
Any one have any thoughts on this or have a similar issue ?

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

I guess that the best thing would be to have a photo of what you're talking about. And then have one of the other guys who bought the same model that you did talk about shooting theirs.

I'm still trying to get it into my head exactly what you're seeing where the forcing cone should be. Are you missing any metal parts or is the end of the barrel completely straight?

Dave

 

[nkbj]

Hopefully you bought it from Cabelas and can send it back to them.
I made the big mistake of buying a new in the box never been fired still full of Italian grease Cabelas 1851 .36 from someone. The revolver is total complete trash from the factory. You cannot even pull the cylinder due to the force the factory used to make the reject non-aligning parts go together. Because I am not the original purchaser Cabelas WILL NOT STAND BEHIND THE REVOLVER THAT BEARS THEIR NAME.
Be advised. Be warned.

 

[Zonie]

A 60 degree forcing cone 1/8 deep will enlarge the bore at the rear of the barrel .144 inches (.072 per side).

That, IMO, is more than is needed.

If you use a 60 degree coned grinding wheel (powered by your fingers, not a power tool) if you remove the material a little more than 1/16 of an inch deep it will enlarge the bore entrance about .040 per side which should be more than enough to compensate for any chamber/bore misalignment.

GoodCheer: There is no way they can put a Colt replica together so tightly that one cannot take it apart.

Yes, the factory does seem to get carried away with the force they use to install the barrel wedge but if an equal force is used to drive it back out of the slot is used it will come out.

It is removed from the right side of the gun and make sure the side of the guns barrel is supported by something solid like two blocks of wood. These must be high enough so the wedge can move out of the barrel.

Using something like a thick piece of brass (but thinner than the wedge) is best but aluminum or soft mild steel will also work.
If the end of the wedge gets dinged up a bit a quick touch-up with a cold bluing solution will cover the damage.

 

[sundog]

Thank You Zonie. I will do as you suggest and I will polish the cone to mirror smooth.
The gun feels so good in my hand compaired to my 1858 Remington I know I am going to enjoy shooting it.

 

[fredrader]

I havent shot either of my 1851's but I took em apart and took some pics of the breech end of both
they have a slight cone but not nearly as much of a cone the 1858 has..

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

Your revolvers' forcing cones look fine from the pictures...no rough areas or missing metal!

Should be fine to load 'er up and shoot!

Truck'em safe!

Dave

 

[fredrader]

I bought one of the Cabelas .44 Navy's. I was going to take it to the range today but whyle doing a good cleaning of the shipping oil I noticed the barrel had NO Forcing cone.

There is a slight chamfer on the chambers in the cylinder and that chamfer is more than there is on the barrel. Where there should be a visable forcing cone there is simply a slight chamfer.

Im thinkin that I ought to put in a 60 deg cone about 1/8th deep.
Any one have any thoughts on this or have a similar issue ?

I posted pics of mine so you could compare them to yours..Smokin.50 said mine is normal so if yours looks like mine you are good to go..The Bison I just picked up has a funnel compaired to the 51's forcing cone..

 

[mazo kid]

A 60 degree cone seems quite extreme to me. Maybe someone who is more knowledgeable can tell us. I know that modern revolvers use an 11 degree coning tool and that is commonly available.

 

[sundog]

Thanks for posting the pics. Your guns have way more of a forcing cone than mine does.
When I compare my .44 navy to an old 1970s .36 Navy there is a dramatic difference.
My old 70s .36 is a great shooter so I am basing my forcing cone ideas around that.
Thanks all for your help. I will let you know how it works out.

 

[Rebel]

Might be Best to shoot it some first before doing any mods to it. It may shoot just fine now.

 

[Dphar]

I bought one of the Cabelas .44 Navy's. I was going to take it to the range today but whyle doing a good cleaning of the shipping oil I noticed the barrel had NO Forcing cone.

There is a slight chamfer on the chambers in the cylinder and that chamfer is more than there is on the barrel. Where there should be a visable forcing cone there is simply a slight chamfer.

Im thinkin that I ought to put in a 60 deg cone about 1/8th deep.
Any one have any thoughts on this or have a similar issue ?

Most gunsmiths have tools to cut forcing cones.
Brownell's sells them. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26161/Product/11_deg___38__45_INTERMEDIATE_CHAMFERING_KIT
Takes just a few minutes to do. It a hand tool and requires no lathe etc.

Dan

 

[Dphar]

I bought one of the Cabelas .44 Navy's. I was going to take it to the range today but whyle doing a good cleaning of the shipping oil I noticed the barrel had NO Forcing cone.

There is a slight chamfer on the chambers in the cylinder and that chamfer is more than there is on the barrel. Where there should be a visable forcing cone there is simply a slight chamfer.

Im thinkin that I ought to put in a 60 deg cone about 1/8th deep.
Any one have any thoughts on this or have a similar issue ?

DO NOT use a 60 degree. Its too steep. Most accurate revolvers have a far shallower angle, like 11 degrees.
In revolver accurizing cutting the existing cone to 11 degrees usually greatly improves accuracy.

Dan

 

[Dphar]

I bought one of the Cabelas .44 Navy's. I was going to take it to the range today but whyle doing a good cleaning of the shipping oil I noticed the barrel had NO Forcing cone.

There is a slight chamfer on the chambers in the cylinder and that chamfer is more than there is on the barrel. Where there should be a visable forcing cone there is simply a slight chamfer.

Im thinkin that I ought to put in a 60 deg cone about 1/8th deep.
Any one have any thoughts on this or have a similar issue ?

I posted pics of mine so you could compare them to yours..Smokin.50 said mine is normal so if yours looks like mine you are good to go..The Bison I just picked up has a funnel compaired to the 51's forcing cone..

They look normal for a Italian repro. I you go to the gun store and look at a new S&W you will get a better idea of what the current standard is.
Those pictured here look like original Colt types some of which were practically non existent.
If I had one this steep I would recut it as a matter of course. But I have the tools.
Steeper angles are harder on the bullets and increase the likelyhood of leading.

HOWEVER, with the RB you don't want them as deep (as far down the bore) as for a bullet.
Have I contradicted myself yet :grin:
I would still recut steep cones for the RB but I would use care and not cut nearly as deep as I would for a 45 colt or 44 mag etc. Hard to explain without having pictures.

Dan