Not exactly my favorite part......

[The Appalachian]

I've only done a couple of barrels. They were half stock rifles so, all 8 sides. Love the jig! I used a file with sandpaper wrapped around it.

Walt

It's just a heavy chunk of 1" plate steel I milled out 30 years ago and I can't really remember what for. I remember needing something heavy and much more rigid than a sanding block. I made it to hold strips of cloth backed belt sander belts. The Allen set screws draw the sanding belt tight down in those slits. I've found though that automotive sticky back paper works better and is quicker to change out. We've used that thing on everything, including truing up gasket surfaces and much more. Being heavy its easy to control in a straight line down a barrel flat.

 

[Rudall]

What was the point of the original post?

 

[Dutch7]

Build it how you want it to be, it’s yours and if you are like me you can pinpoint every little blemish that others would never see or care if they did.
Good on you Appalachian

 

[44-henry]

This is a learning community. You posted a job you were doing that you mentioned was unpleasant, another poster took the time to let you know many builders, with historical correctness on their side, did not expend time on the bottom three flats. Why was that so bad? Nothing wrong with what you are doing, but why jump all over someone for offering another valid approach. There are plenty of well known professional builders that leave those bottom flats untouched, and put the time into other parts of the rifle that do matter and have an impact on aesthetics and performance.

 

[Mtman725]

Like you sand block, good idea.

 

[nhmoose]

Like they had sandpaper in PC/HC times

 

[user 34300]

The OP's job look nice.

I use a Johnson brand 14" single cut mill ******* file. I bought a box of them at a good price. On a quality barrel it takes about two strokes per spot. I use a sharpie marker to cross hatch the flats and monitor progress. As I work I move the file over to get a clean spot for each stroke then flip the file and repeat. It is important to not get steel pinned in the file teeth. You should be making steel wool. Clean the file with a rag and a smashed brass cartrige case. A bronze brush is good too. Do not use a steel file card, it will dull your file. After filing I use burgundy scotchbrite pad to blend the finish. After browning no file or pad marks remain. Going too fine makes it harder to brown evenly with no observed improvement in the final finish.