Notching lock bolts

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chawbeef

40 Cal.
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Wondering if anyone has had to file a notch in the forward lock bolt under the barrel?? My bolt just intrudes in my barrel channel by about 1/32 inch. Thank you for any and all responses..........Daniel
 
I've done it. I actually used a round file and made divot around the entire circumference of the bolt so I wouldn't have to get it back in the same exact position each time.
Will it weaken the bolt(?),, of course. But the bolt just holds the lock in the mortise it doesn't need to be gorilla tight, nor is it supposed to hold any structural tension.
Another option is a tapered ramrod.
 
Hi,
Yes. On about 25% of my guns the forward lock bolt breaks into the barrel channel. That is because I tend to make the web of wood between the barrel channel and ramrod hole very thin (about the thickness of a #8 bolt). Just file a shallow groove on the bottom flat of the barrel. Most barrels have plenty of excess wall thickness there.

dave
 
Chawbeef said:
My bolt just intrudes in my barrel channel by about 1/32 inch.

Never had one intrude into the barrel channel, but have one that intruded into the ramrod hole. I just chucked it up in the drill press and using a small half round file, took a little off in the middle like on a lathe (bolt shaft now looks like an hourglass).
 
necchi said:
Dave Person said:
Just file a shallow groove on the bottom flat of the barrel.
How does that change the bolt being present in the ramrod channel?
Considering the OP states the bolt is in the barrel channel, the ramrod channel should be unaffected....
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi Necchi,
Some of my bolts do intrude into the ramrod hole but I taper all my rods and the bolt actually puts a little pressure on the rod holding it in place. That way the rod can be small enough to never swell in the hole but still be held in place by the bolt. Works very well and is often found on original guns. One of the little tricks you never learn about in the books.

dave
 
I have a NWG that the front bolt is in the ram rod channelthe wood between the channel and the barrel grove is very narrow. I had a choice of one or the other when I drilled the hole. I chose the ramrod and then groves the screw.
 
I had to do this on my first (and only build, so far) and I thought I was doing something crude and unusual. Reading this thread I find out that it is pretty common. I do like the idea of notching the underside of the barrel to accommodate the bolt, and will use that idea the next time if I have to.
 
In recent years I have started to use a 6 x 32 bolt for my forward lock screw. It has greatly reduced the need to file a groove in the larger diameter bolt and is also P\C.

This also gives my 8\32 taps and drills a break, especially when I use a 10\32 for the barrel tang to trigger plate, an 8\32 for the rear lock bolt, and the 6\32 for the forward lock bolt. :grin:

This added confusion makes good for the true "mystery" of the gunsmithing arts! :rotf:
 
Hi Joel,
That is a good idea and I have seen it on some originals as well. However, I urge you to consider 6-40 or 6-48 threads. I have found 6-32 to be weak and prone to strip threads over time.

dave
 
Most all of my Bucks County LRs have a web thickness at the breech of 1/16" and w/ using a #6-32 front lock bolt and grooving the bbl, I stay away from the RR hole and grooving the front lock bolt. From my hunting experience, a 3/8" RR that's just a few .001s undersize stands up well "in the heat of battle", so to speak.

An important factor is that an accurate layout and drilling be made for the front lock bolt and the rearmost bbl lug pin hole {1/16 dia music wireis used} when dealing w/ a 1/16" web......Fred
 
Thanks so much to all that have responded. I feel much better now :grin: Won't be losing any more sleep. Honestly, I have been waking in the night and obsessing over what to do. :hatsoff: ...............Chawbeef (Daniel)
 
The lock bolt on my first build, I haven't needed to do the same on subsequent builds as I hit the web perfectly;

UFKf4AI.jpg
 
Danged if that doesn't look exactly like the forward lock bolt on my first build! I chucked it in a drill press and "power filed" to that shape.
 
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