Hey Guys I drew out a November elk hunt. I will be at 9000-12000 feet in elevation. It will be with a muzzleloader. This is my first ever muzzleloader hunt with a new muzzleloader so I'm sure I will have some growing pains. Anybody have any good ideas or suggestions for the hunt? I've elk hunted my whole life and have hunted elk a lot in November. I have actually killed 75% of the elk in my life in November. Just wondering if there are any tips for muzzleloader hunting.
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November Muzzleloader Hunt
- Thread starter MT_mulies
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Black Hand
Cannon
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Hunting with a muzzleloader really isn't much different than hunting with a centerfire. Make sure you have all necessary supplies to feed your gun and practice shooting so you can consistently put the ball in an 8" paper plate at 50-75 yards.
If hunting with a flinter, change to a new flint before starting the season and check your prime often while hunting (sometimes the frizzen doesn't mate well with the pan and the prime can leak out).
If hunting with a flinter, change to a new flint before starting the season and check your prime often while hunting (sometimes the frizzen doesn't mate well with the pan and the prime can leak out).
Get close shoot it in the vital chest areas.
Dead elk. I shot 2 moose the same way both were very tasty.
Dead elk. I shot 2 moose the same way both were very tasty.
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If you hunted center fire a bunch as I did. The 1st muzzle loader hunt I was setting up 150-200 yard shooting lanes with an 80 yard rifle :haha: took some adjustments. I now think of it as bow hunting with a bow that has GREAT range :idunno:
nwtradegun
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min. for elk 50 cal. better is a 54.
Ok thanks guys. Do you guys hike around with your gun in a soft case so that snow, moisture doesnt' get in it? Or do you hike with the muzzleloader just like you would if you were hunting with other weapons?
Also do you unload it every night or do you leave it loaded for the week?
I have read that some people put a rubber or plastic thing over the barrel so that moisture doesn't go down the barrel. I also read that someone puts one of those pencil erasers on the cap nipple to keep water out as well. Thoughts? I can shoot a 6 inch group at 100 yards, but want to practice more so that I can shoot 150 with that same accuracy. I'm using a T/C hawken .50 cal.
Also do you unload it every night or do you leave it loaded for the week?
I have read that some people put a rubber or plastic thing over the barrel so that moisture doesn't go down the barrel. I also read that someone puts one of those pencil erasers on the cap nipple to keep water out as well. Thoughts? I can shoot a 6 inch group at 100 yards, but want to practice more so that I can shoot 150 with that same accuracy. I'm using a T/C hawken .50 cal.
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Just throwing a basic round ball simulation at you.
.490 ball with a weight of 170 gr, leaving the muzzle at 1450fps
RANGE, VEL, ENERGY, RISE, DRIFT, TIME OF FLIGHT
075 977 375 3.5 0.0 0.196
100 902 320 0.0 0.0 0.276
125 837 275 -6.9 0.0 0.363
150 779 239 -17.7 0.0 0.455
175 723 206 -33.4 0.0 0.555
200 670 176 -54.9 0.0 0.663
225 618 150 -83.7 0.0 0.780
sighted in at 100 yards that's a 17.7" drop at 150 and well below 250 fp on energy (dropping nearly 1/3 of it's energy in just 50 yards.) Remember we are talking about elk.
What if it take a few steps between when you range find & fire? lets say it moves 10 yards at that range if it moves 10 yards you will need to change your point of aim something like 6 inches :shocked2: where as if you limit your shots to 100 yards and you are 10 yards off the change in impacted would be 2.5 inches.
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/rbballistics/web_apps/rb_ballistics.html
.490 ball with a weight of 170 gr, leaving the muzzle at 1450fps
RANGE, VEL, ENERGY, RISE, DRIFT, TIME OF FLIGHT
075 977 375 3.5 0.0 0.196
100 902 320 0.0 0.0 0.276
125 837 275 -6.9 0.0 0.363
150 779 239 -17.7 0.0 0.455
175 723 206 -33.4 0.0 0.555
200 670 176 -54.9 0.0 0.663
225 618 150 -83.7 0.0 0.780
sighted in at 100 yards that's a 17.7" drop at 150 and well below 250 fp on energy (dropping nearly 1/3 of it's energy in just 50 yards.) Remember we are talking about elk.
What if it take a few steps between when you range find & fire? lets say it moves 10 yards at that range if it moves 10 yards you will need to change your point of aim something like 6 inches :shocked2: where as if you limit your shots to 100 yards and you are 10 yards off the change in impacted would be 2.5 inches.
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/rbballistics/web_apps/rb_ballistics.html
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I plan on shooting Maxi Balls with 80 gr of powder behind it. Since that is what my gun likes. Do maxi balls fly similar to PRB with velocity and energy? I was under the impression that conicals are better at longer distances (generally speaking). I do a lot of archery hunting so I understand that a lot can happen between when you range find and actually pull the trigger. But I never shoot an arrow unless I know the yardage. I plan on doing the same with my muzzleloader. I have way to much respect for an animal to wound it if I can help it.
I didn't see where you said what caliber the rifle is so I will assume it is a .50.
The patched roundball with a 80 grain load of GOEX 3Fg can be expected to leave the muzzle somewhere around 1631 fps. At 100 yards it's velocity will have dropped to around 958 fps with 361 lb/ft of energy.
A 370 grain Maxi with a 80 grain load of GOEX 3Fg can be expected to leave the muzzle somewhere around 1346 fps, At 100 yards its velocity will have dropped to around 1037 fps with 889 lb/ft of energy.
After 100 yards, the roundball will rapidly lose velocity and energy generating a rather pronounced drop in its trajectory.
If it was zeroed at 100 yards it will drop 11.1 at 140 yards.
After 100 yards, the mini will not lose velocity as rapidly as the round ball so it will shoot with less drop.
If it was zeroed at 100 yards it will drop 5.2" at 140 yards.
The patched roundball with a 80 grain load of GOEX 3Fg can be expected to leave the muzzle somewhere around 1631 fps. At 100 yards it's velocity will have dropped to around 958 fps with 361 lb/ft of energy.
A 370 grain Maxi with a 80 grain load of GOEX 3Fg can be expected to leave the muzzle somewhere around 1346 fps, At 100 yards its velocity will have dropped to around 1037 fps with 889 lb/ft of energy.
After 100 yards, the roundball will rapidly lose velocity and energy generating a rather pronounced drop in its trajectory.
If it was zeroed at 100 yards it will drop 11.1 at 140 yards.
After 100 yards, the mini will not lose velocity as rapidly as the round ball so it will shoot with less drop.
If it was zeroed at 100 yards it will drop 5.2" at 140 yards.
Yer load will wallup a bull NP. Dont shoot over 100 yds, fire and clean every night (mis fires in bull season stay with you an looooooooooong time). Follow through! Dont jerk up to see after the shot. Take a camera.
Black Hand
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Not necessary....MT_mulies said:
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A muzzleloader is quite a bit different to shoot. First off, I have no clue what elevation effects our guns have. I do know our "zero" or relative correction adjustment for elevation drop is more than a rifle.
That said, the thinner air may have an effect a bit on a shot especially if you're looking at the 150 yard range of things. You're higher up, which means two other things. You're dealing with shots up and downhill and you're seeing more wind. Learn what your bullet does in the wind well....
You point of impact shooting up and down a decent grade will be significantly different. Practice those. Going uphill will shoot lower, going downhill will shoot higher. It matters little with a modern gun at moderate ranges, but our muzzleloaders will effect more.
Buy a cow's knee to keep things dry.
I fire a very well clean gun when hunting with a 54 cal flintlock with roundball. I use a touch of brake cleaner to clean the patent chamber and bore. I remove the touch hole and clean that with brake cleaner. I load the gun, then take a patch very very lightly sprayed with WD40. I do this to protect the barrel from the elements. some folk put masking tape on the bore I know of. I leave a feather in the touch hole with the pan empty. If I am hunting on foot, I have the pan filled and change it out every hour or so.
An avid percussion hunter I know uses wax around his nipple.
Frequently check the condition of your gun, if it's at half cock, if it has a nipple or powder in it. IF it still has a flint. If your cow's knee is still covered......
IF your hunting in one spot, glass the heck out of your shooting lanes to make sure there no surprise branches. I have a notepad to take notes. In low light, you can totally not see these things with a muzzleloader.
Get in the habit of doubling checking your equipment before a hunt, I have forgot caps, a spare load, priming horn, etc....
Not everyone hunts as safe as they should. These gun can go off accidentally easier than modern arms. Set triggers are safe, half cock is reliable, wedges stay in good, etc....
Put a bobby pin in your hunting tag pouch or on your clothes.
I always reload the gun after a shot, even if it sinks like a rock.... Bears love the smell of fresh meat.
If the gun get wet, make sure you got what you need to make it dry again, rags, a bit of alcohol, spare loads, etc....
I love lyman peep sights over scopes, if your gun has a peep sight, carry a spare aperture. Make sure you use a wider hunting aperture. I got a huge size one, around 1/8". I can shoot cloverleafs with that gun. There is no need for a small holes, they're horrible in low light.
Most muzzleloader elk hunts are during the rut, practice your calls and listening to them. although November seems late to me for that, but I'm a yankee from the catskills....
That said, the thinner air may have an effect a bit on a shot especially if you're looking at the 150 yard range of things. You're higher up, which means two other things. You're dealing with shots up and downhill and you're seeing more wind. Learn what your bullet does in the wind well....
You point of impact shooting up and down a decent grade will be significantly different. Practice those. Going uphill will shoot lower, going downhill will shoot higher. It matters little with a modern gun at moderate ranges, but our muzzleloaders will effect more.
Buy a cow's knee to keep things dry.
I fire a very well clean gun when hunting with a 54 cal flintlock with roundball. I use a touch of brake cleaner to clean the patent chamber and bore. I remove the touch hole and clean that with brake cleaner. I load the gun, then take a patch very very lightly sprayed with WD40. I do this to protect the barrel from the elements. some folk put masking tape on the bore I know of. I leave a feather in the touch hole with the pan empty. If I am hunting on foot, I have the pan filled and change it out every hour or so.
An avid percussion hunter I know uses wax around his nipple.
Frequently check the condition of your gun, if it's at half cock, if it has a nipple or powder in it. IF it still has a flint. If your cow's knee is still covered......
IF your hunting in one spot, glass the heck out of your shooting lanes to make sure there no surprise branches. I have a notepad to take notes. In low light, you can totally not see these things with a muzzleloader.
Get in the habit of doubling checking your equipment before a hunt, I have forgot caps, a spare load, priming horn, etc....
Not everyone hunts as safe as they should. These gun can go off accidentally easier than modern arms. Set triggers are safe, half cock is reliable, wedges stay in good, etc....
Put a bobby pin in your hunting tag pouch or on your clothes.
I always reload the gun after a shot, even if it sinks like a rock.... Bears love the smell of fresh meat.
If the gun get wet, make sure you got what you need to make it dry again, rags, a bit of alcohol, spare loads, etc....
I love lyman peep sights over scopes, if your gun has a peep sight, carry a spare aperture. Make sure you use a wider hunting aperture. I got a huge size one, around 1/8". I can shoot cloverleafs with that gun. There is no need for a small holes, they're horrible in low light.
Most muzzleloader elk hunts are during the rut, practice your calls and listening to them. although November seems late to me for that, but I'm a yankee from the catskills....
No.... it's not necessary. But since I have adapted this tedious and unnecessary habit I have yet to lose any game due to a mis or hang fire.
If you take the time to do it "my way" you start out with a gun that has been cleaned, FIRED, swabbed and reloaded and it has NEVER let me down, all grease and oil and what have you has been dealt with, powder is frsh and barrel/breach is dry. Prior to that I have let live too many critters that wondered what the noise (my cap) was? Other ways work as well. I wont do it any other way again. My very first Bull hunt was a good example. A huge 6 pt. I didnt do this and I "popped a cap at his arse" at 60 yds and he chewed the rest of his grass and grunted at his cows and went bye bye before I could re-cap and fire again (pretty jittery at this point and dropped the capper in 18" grass). If I see his great great grand son when I draw again HE'S GOING HOME WITH ME!
Oh yea...I do a FULL cleaning
He asked and I answered. Take it or leave it.
If you take the time to do it "my way" you start out with a gun that has been cleaned, FIRED, swabbed and reloaded and it has NEVER let me down, all grease and oil and what have you has been dealt with, powder is frsh and barrel/breach is dry. Prior to that I have let live too many critters that wondered what the noise (my cap) was? Other ways work as well. I wont do it any other way again. My very first Bull hunt was a good example. A huge 6 pt. I didnt do this and I "popped a cap at his arse" at 60 yds and he chewed the rest of his grass and grunted at his cows and went bye bye before I could re-cap and fire again (pretty jittery at this point and dropped the capper in 18" grass). If I see his great great grand son when I draw again HE'S GOING HOME WITH ME!
Oh yea...I do a FULL cleaning
He asked and I answered. Take it or leave it.
Sure, the easy way!
I recommend firing it EVERY morning before the hunt though, just use 30 grns. If it goes off, every bit of whatever goes with it and you can bet it'll go off again with no hang fire or worse (course than ya gotta clean it :blah: )
I recommend firing it EVERY morning before the hunt though, just use 30 grns. If it goes off, every bit of whatever goes with it and you can bet it'll go off again with no hang fire or worse (course than ya gotta clean it :blah: )
Mad Professor
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fools sulphur said:
It will shoot high up- or down-hill.
Back to OP.....
I have not done elk but lots of deer woods in cold rainy/snowy New England weather. I sight my gun for a clean barrel and load it squeaky clean then leave it loaded. I put a round patch of duct tape on the end of the barrel and wax in the base of the nipple with a candle. I leave the gun outside in shed or barn when finished at the end of the day to avoid any condensation. I won't fire it until I get a shot at game. Sometimes a day, sometimes a month.
If you are using a maxi make sure that it stays put over the charge and does not unseat itself from the charge. You might want to do some pre-hunt hunting and handle the gun a little roughly to check this. Mark your ramrod and check that the seating stays put.
I use a CO2 cartridge to blow out the load, especially if I have any concerns that the charge may have gotten damp. Much easier than pulling the ball. I have been hunting the Pioneer zone for the last 4 years in November. Some years it is almost to pleasant of weather, two years ago we were pushing over 18 inches of snow getting out so be prepared for anything.
PS Don't worry about the elevation, there aren't any elk much above 10,000 feet. :wink:
et
PS Don't worry about the elevation, there aren't any elk much above 10,000 feet. :wink:
et
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