Number 3!

[ebiggs1]

Here goes number 3. I guess I am a glutton for punishment but hopefully I can apply what I have learned from the first two, less than award winning builds. It took me two hours to inlett this tang. But it fits pretty well. I have found a Fostner bit and a drill press are your best friends. :grin: A very precise control of depth can be maintained with there use. That and a few sharp chisels.

The barrel channel is almost done and most of the lock is inletting is done. It kinda helps me get things lined up better if I do them more or less together. We'll see. The Davis trigger is next.

 

[wattlebuster]

Keep at it you'll get there. :thumbsup:

 

[MSW]

really nice finish on the tang ... how do you do that?

 

[ohio ramrod]

I see you are a religious man. Those crosses on the screws tell me that! :idunno: :idunno:

 

[hoochiepapa]

Nice work!!

 

[ebiggs1]

They will be replaced by the more traditional slotted screws when complete. I just use anything available when I am constructing. There were just in arms reach.

 

[ebiggs1]

It came that way from Track.

 

[ebiggs1]

You know I am a reasonably talented guy. I have spent a lifetime either building kitchen cabinets or tool and die making. But for some reason gun building is not my forte. The discipline is not transferable I guess.

 

[Birddog6]

On something you will take out may times, the Phillips Head screw will work better than the slotted ones. More surface area on the scew (torque on 4 edges rather than 2) & you don't bugger up the slot in the screw you will end up using in the end.
Only thing you must watch is the the dia. of the Phillips screw shaft should be smaller than the one you will use at final assembly & countersink hole needs to match final screw head.

I use Phillips head screws lots of times on patchboxes, toeplates, etc. when building & I know I will have it on & off many times. You can buy the Phillips head screws cheaper & local hardware & save the round head ones for the final assembly.

I will caution you on using brass Phillips head screws, as they are mass produced, usually smaller dia. shaft, & will shear off easily.......

Keith Lisle

 

[ohio ramrod]

Ebiggs , I also have spent over 45 years in tool room work and almost 40 years custom building futniture and cabinets. ( I prefered to work two jobs and have the wife home with the kids rather than have her work and the kids running wild). And it is a simple fact our machining and cabinet building depends on how well we use the machines. Gun building depends on that as well as hand to eye coordination.And I for one tend to be a klutz! So I don't do a lot of gun building. But I do find myelf doing a lot of repair work for people who don't understanding cleaning black powder!. :idunno:

 

[MSW]

ebiggs, you're way too modest!

 

[akapennypincher]

I am envious of those who have the GUTS to build a Muzzleloader from a Parts Kit. If I was to take on a project like this, I would turn a 500 BUCK KIT into 10 BUCKS worth of Scrap Metal & Tooth Picks!

 

[ebiggs1]

We must be soul mates. I can do that, too! :grin:

 

[Jason Lewis]

soo... whatcha buildin'?

 

[ebiggs1]

Got the back end done. Got a free day yesterday so I got to work on it for a long time. One nice thing about building your own is you can put the LOP where ever you like. This one is 14 3/8th.

One thing for sure, iron is harder to work on than brass!

There was a lot of casting left that was not part of the butt plate, so it had to go. The Dewalt angle grinder made short work of it. The Davis trigger is here, so................

 

[ebiggs1]

The ram rod hole was supposed to be drilled but we cam take care of that here. :shocked2:

That is, if you have a long enough drill bit. :grin:

Got the nose cap made. And I modified one of TOTW's entry pipes to fit my needs.

These have the first cold blueing applied and I will do it twice more.

 

[ebiggs1]

It's done. And it is a beauty. I am so pleased with it, I am thinking there may be hope for me yet.
What do ya think?

 

[Erzulis boat]

The light wood and the dark furniture really look sharp! :thumbsup:

 

[ebiggs1]

Here is the run down:

A Pecatonica River Maple stock blank in grade 3 $100 bucks
L&R lock $102 bucks
Davis set trigger $44 bucks
Old 50 cal barrel I had lying around $00 bucks
TOTW iron hardware $30 bucks
TC trigger guard from a Renegade $20 bucks
New set of black oval head wood screws (that haven't arrived yet) $7 bucks
Satin is left from an old cabinet project $00
Minwax Tung oil $5 bucks

Not too bad for just a little over $300 dollars! I am finding out general wood working tools do not lend themselves to gun stock making. I need to invest in some true gun stock tools if I am to go on.

The finish is sorta interesting. I put a coat of Ace Cherry wood stain on, than a coat of Minwax Ebony and another coat of the Cherry. After that it got three coats of Minwax Tung oil with rub downs between coats with 0000 steel wool.

Now to shoot it.

Number two and three together. Number one does not exist any more.

 

[silly goose]

Wow, you do nice work. Let us know how she shoots. I like the wood on #3.