• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Oil finish on a stock.....

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The finish is over aqua fortis, right?
The stain is walnut husk in water to raise the grain which doesn’t have much color but has tannins. Then aqua fortis with the standard blush. The resulting color has nice depth and sort of enhances the refraction of the curl that I don’t get with dyes.
 
Boiled Linseed Oil. The old rule says to rub it in once an hour for a day, once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year for the rest of your life. It think that's a pretty good procedure, but after a year or two, I apply Johnson's Paste Wax over the top and reapply it after each time I clean the gun.
This is the way I was taught by a gunsmith when I was doing stocks for those other things.
But--- the difference was to work the previous layer up with thousand girt paper dipped in the oil until it blends. Them wipe it off. Do not polish, just wipe. Wait till it's hardened then do it again, and again, and again. Once a day, if it has hardened, for a week. Once a week for a month. Once a year forever. If it is done right then you will get that "looking though a layer of slightly misty glass" look.
 
My first 2coats are a thinned tung oil, trying to get the finish in the wood fibers as opposed to on the wood. Followed by 3-5 coats of unthinned oil 48 hrs between coats…Minwax finishing wax twice on top of that.
ED66DFF4-23DA-41D4-BEEE-140B8A945F47.jpeg
 
I know this will raise some eyebrows. Have you ever heard of Tru-oil/amour-all finish?
I have. A buddy used that recipe to refinish an unmentionable. Looked OK, but no idea how it's aged, or held up to any weather.

As a painter, it makes no sense to me to intentionally mix silicone into a finish.
 
I’ve used BLO on many wood handled tools and axe handles with great results. Tung oil will get similar results but does tend to not get “sticky” per se but definitely “grippy”. It will pickup grime off dirty hands and stuff and kinda hold on if that makes any sense. It’s good for axes if you don’t mind that look for anti-slip, but a gun finish I’m not too sure that’s subjective. I just picked up a bottle of BirchWood Casey Genuine Oil that I want to try, it’s supposedly the natural satin substitute finish to their Tru-oil, could be up your alley. I’d also check out the Walrus Oil line, it’s become my go to for natural finishes on just about everything. Their Knife&Axe oil/wax or Butcher Block oil/wax is food grade safe as well.
 
I’ve used BLO on many wood handled tools and axe handles with great results. Tung oil will get similar results but does tend to not get “sticky” per se but definitely “grippy”. It will pickup grime off dirty hands and stuff and kinda hold on if that makes any sense. It’s good for axes if you don’t mind that look for anti-slip, but a gun finish I’m not too sure that’s subjective. I just picked up a bottle of BirchWood Casey Genuine Oil that I want to try, it’s supposedly the natural satin substitute finish to their Tru-oil, could be up your alley. I’d also check out the Walrus Oil line, it’s become my go to for natural finishes on just about everything. Their Knife&Axe oil/wax or Butcher Block oil/wax is food grade safe as well.
When you listed BC genuine oil, are you referring to BC Tru-oil gun stock finish?


I have used many bottles of BC Tru-Oil on stocks since the early 80's. I have no complaints on it whatsoever. It can be used in different capacities and in conjunction with wood grain filler or stain. I have found BC to be fairly durable as well. One great thing about it is, you can put whatever type top finish you want. From no sheen, to satin finish, gloss to high gloss.

This time around I was really looking into an oil finish but after reading all the replies in this thread, I may just go back with BC. But we shall see I reckon.
 
When you listed BC genuine oil, are you referring to BC Tru-oil gun stock finish?


I have used many bottles of BC Tru-Oil on stocks since the early 80's. I have no complaints on it whatsoever. It can be used in different capacities and in conjunction with wood grain filler or stain. I have found BC to be fairly durable as well. One great thing about it is, you can put whatever type top finish you want. From no sheen, to satin finish, gloss to high gloss.

This time around I was really looking into an oil finish but after reading all the replies in this thread, I may just go back with BC. But we shall see I reckon.
Nope I am referring to BC Genuine Oil. It’s not nearly as common, I picked mine up at the local hunting store one day to try. I find Tru-oil to be a little too glossy.
 

Attachments

  • 1A0F5B18-60CF-4161-8C1F-7BC835447B95.png
    1A0F5B18-60CF-4161-8C1F-7BC835447B95.png
    692.8 KB
I always use boiled linseed oil applied by hand and fingers. Apply a lot. Leave for an hour or so then wipe off the excess. I also massage the wet stock with 0000 steel wool.
 
Boiled Linseed Oil. The old rule says to rub it in once an hour for a day, once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year for the rest of your life. It think that's a pretty good procedure, but after a year or two, I apply Johnson's Paste Wax over the top and reapply it after each time I clean the gun.
did Torquemada make that rule? 🤠
 
Nope I am referring to BC Genuine Oil. It’s not nearly as common, I picked mine up at the local hunting store one day to try. I find Tru-oil to be a little too glossy.
Thanks. You can always tone down the sheen on the regular Tru oil with 00 or 000 steel wool. But I will look into some of the genuine oil.
 
I actually have heard of this. For some reason it causes the Tru-oil to cure very quickly. If I recall, you can get 4 or 5 coats on in a day. I have never tried it but did come across it on the Net. Looked it up, Here is a link

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/woodstocks-amazin-stock-finish-photos.331108/

the article says that he can put 24 to 36 coats on a day!
Yes, I've used that method on a new walnut stock. The Armor-All catalyzes the Tru-Oil, allowing it to dry in minutes. I rubbed in 14 coats in one day and let it hang overnight. The next day the finish was hard, I drilled for the buttplate and trigger guard screws and assembled the rifle. By 2 PM I was on the range shooting it. I can't speak to how weatherproof it is, it never goes out in the weather. It's a rimfire single-shot plinker that I play with now and again, but it's a nice looking finish!
 
Back
Top