Do any of you guys add oil to your stock with the gun assembled? I never have but have heard some references to it. I’m assuming they are referring to the last coat or two? You’d think it would make your parts stick to the stock making disassembly difficult.
Oiling stock with gun assembled?
- Thread starter Texcl2
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
don't pour it on, just drops and rub. Gun fully assembled.
No problem, just hand rub it in and wipe extra close where the stock meets the metal.
so maybe for maintenance but no advantages during assembly?
I oil the stock after assembly. If you oil the stock first it is common that your inlets won't fit anymore and you have to open them up a bit. Oil is going to swell up the wood slightly. If you oil with it assembled those small inletting gaps turn into a perfect fit. Use masking tape!
On a related note, I got a perfect fit on the ramrod for my current build. Just a nice slick fit, not too loose or not too tight, just right. Then I put it into a piece of PVC pipe full of half linseed and half turpentine and let it set for 6 or 8 weeks. When I took it out and tried it today it turns out I'm going to have to sand the d%&n thing down to get it to fit. Oh well, at least I know it soaked up some finish.
I have the linseed oil/pine oil mix from track, their original oil finish I think is what they call it. Smells and feels like the old Waukegan bay tru-oil.
I dip it on my fingers and rub in moving around the metal
I dip it on my fingers and rub in moving around the metal
I was wondering if some folks were adding oil afterwards to fill gaps or perhaps seal seems in the butt plate ect… interesting thought
bldtrailer
Pilgrim
the only oil to add to a stock is boiled linseed oil ( if used as a sealer)
the metal parts gets a wipe with kriol on a patch and light motor oil on lock moving parts small drops
I wax the other stocks( some suppliers call sealers oil, chambers oil used after stain)
chambers oil( sealer w red tint & hardener over stain) wax after
the metal parts gets a wipe with kriol on a patch and light motor oil on lock moving parts small drops
Last edited:
Used to use bore butter after cleaning my muzzleloader, put on hands and rub into warm barrel and metal parts then any residuals got hand rubbed into the stock. Never had any issues.
Hatchet-Jack
54 Cal.
On my last build I tried oiling the stock with very very thin coats with all the parts installed except the barrel. It worked out very well and as @billraby said above it kept the oil out of the inlets, avoided any swelling and filled in any gaps. I didn't have any issues removing the parts afterwards.
I personally wouldn't apply any stock finish to any area of the stock near the metal. If on an area of the forearm or butt stock, away from any metal, then maybe for touch-ups. There's always the chance of some finish getting in between the wood and metal and making it hard to get apart later. It will build up over time. Then, when you go to pop a wedge key inlay, side plate, or ram rod/under lug pin out of the wood and it drags a large wood chip with it, you'll wish you hadn't!
I built my GPR from a kit somewhere back in the late 1970's or early 1980's. I probably used GB Linspeed and 0000 steel wool (I know better now) to remove the finish down to the surface of the wood after each coat. When I stopped applying finish and after the last rub-down, the wood surface had kind of a dull sheen to it. After shooting and cleaning the gun I'd wipe down the metal with a lightly oiled cloth. While I was at it I just used the same oily cloth to wipe down the stock too. This left the thinnest of possible oil coating on the surface of the stock each time. The wood looked great after the first time I did that, but soon dulled up a bit again. After many such sessions, the stock has taken on a soft luster that does not go away, and IMHO looks very 'rich' and satisfying. I like my stock finish 'in' the wood, not on it.
I built my GPR from a kit somewhere back in the late 1970's or early 1980's. I probably used GB Linspeed and 0000 steel wool (I know better now) to remove the finish down to the surface of the wood after each coat. When I stopped applying finish and after the last rub-down, the wood surface had kind of a dull sheen to it. After shooting and cleaning the gun I'd wipe down the metal with a lightly oiled cloth. While I was at it I just used the same oily cloth to wipe down the stock too. This left the thinnest of possible oil coating on the surface of the stock each time. The wood looked great after the first time I did that, but soon dulled up a bit again. After many such sessions, the stock has taken on a soft luster that does not go away, and IMHO looks very 'rich' and satisfying. I like my stock finish 'in' the wood, not on it.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2010
- Messages
- 846
- Reaction score
- 585
I rub on a thin coat of oil about every other year purely for maintenance reasons.
My GPR that I refinish in the 70's probably has over 100 coats of BLO hand rubbed into it. All but the first 3 were after all hardware was installed.
I try to avoid getting gun oil on the stock. I was taught that it softens wood finishes.
Getting a little bore butter, Ballistol or other non-petroleum based lubes on wood stocks probably doesn't hurt. I do apply a coat of plain old Johnson's Paste Wax on stocks once or twice a year and it does a pretty good job of shedding off rain or snow.
Getting a little bore butter, Ballistol or other non-petroleum based lubes on wood stocks probably doesn't hurt. I do apply a coat of plain old Johnson's Paste Wax on stocks once or twice a year and it does a pretty good job of shedding off rain or snow.
Harry Marinakis
40 Cal
After cleaning my rifle, I wipe down the entire rifle with Fluid Film. Ramrod, stock, barrel, lock, bore, everything.
