I use square patches and I don't lube the whole patch which would be unnecessary. I just stick the center in the lube and move it around to get the center lubed enough that it covers the ball, rake off excess lube and it's good. Many people cut patches at the muzzle and they end up coming out more square than round anyway. Not knocking anyones method, like stated round, square or even flower shaped they all shoot the same.
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Ok! Patch diameter..?
- Thread starter Licespray
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I can lube the entire patch because they are round and perfectly sized, no corners of excess and unneeded material to deal with. No fiddling or guess work.
Lube, load and shoot.
That is a function of the method of cutting. It bears no other relevance.
You make it sound like it's a laboring task.
Folks make it sound like it's easier to cut square patches than it is to cut round patches.
There's no difference, except that it's easier ( and faster) to make a round patch cutter than it is to make a scissors or a knife, and the final product is easier to manipulate.
I've tried every crazy idea that comes down the pipe, yet I keep gravitating back to round patches. I like simple, effective and efficient, for me that's a round patch.
None of what I say is meant to be a criticism, just passing along my experiences and enjoying reading and learning from everyone else's.
I use 1.5" square patches in my .50.
I use 1-3/8" wide torn strips and cut at the muzzle or loading block as needed for both my .50 and .54 so I can be assured they are always centered.
One less thing to worry about.
One less thing to worry about.
Crow-Feather
32 Cal.
I have noticed that with circle patches the groups are a nice round circle, but the square patches seem to be more angular or "boxy" in shape. Really !!
(chuckle)
(chuckle)
user 43911
45 Cal.
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some used a triangle patch
I do the same for my .45 and .50. I still need to make myself a loading block for the .45...note to self...
BTW: my shot patches are all pretty much round. I don't know how you would manage to make them come out square cutting at the muzzle. Not trying to be argumentative, just making an observation and posing a puzzle.
The creases when the patches are folded over to fit down the bore. Try doing it and then pick up your fired patches. They are not completely square of coarse but some what.
MrMackc
40 Cal
What is wrong with the rip, lick and snip or rip and slice? Rip a length of striped ticking and then lick the end, cover the end of the muzzle with the spit wet end of the ticking , place the ball over the patching start the ball, clip or slice the extra cloth even with the muzzle and ram it home. Has always worked for me...... I know some folks think it is dumb for a grown man walking around with a muzzleloading rifle with a strip of ticking hanging out of his mouth.
Being by nature wanting to do things the easy way I just buy the round ticking patches in the 100 pack. I lube them with the tow mink oil. After lubing I put them into one of the cci 100 rd plastic boxes with the sliding top. This fits into the 30 cal ammo can I use for a range box. I use the same patch for .45 cal and above. It's my system and works for me. I have used the square patches I've cut but see no difference in ease of loading or accuracy.
There really isn’t any wrong shape as long as it covers the ball, but it definitely has to be the right color to work right!
beardedhorse
Pilgrim
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Anybody try the pushing daisies shaped patches? They are stamped or cut with six to eight round "petals" by Idaho or Oregon ml company who also markets a bear tallow-beeswax patch lube. Are they actually more accurate or a fad or sales gimmick?
Interesting theory, but really no better than any other patch.
I never tried one, I don't do store bought patches but sounds like a marketing gimmick to me.
I was about to post that.
Fad. From the bottom of the ball up to its widest point forms a gasket to prevent blow by, and a tight fit to grab the rifleing and the ball. When the curve of the ball moves away from the rifleing the patch doesn’t do anything.
So square, daisy,triangular or any other shape is meaningless.
The only trouble on would run into is if extra bunch in front of the ball grabs the rod as you attempt to withdraw.
Cutting at the muzzle or using patches cut for the size of the gun prevents that grabbing, no matter the shape
I cut my patches at the muzzle.
When cut, the patch, ball and muzzle look like this.
The ball is perfectly centered with the patch nestled around the ball with the top visible.
I shot okay. See another entry where i use the old cataract excuse. Trigger control had a bit to do with the scattering. A loose front sight didn't help either.
The hole is a little over an inch and even though cut at the muzzle are not perfectly round.
When cut, the patch, ball and muzzle look like this.
The ball is perfectly centered with the patch nestled around the ball with the top visible.
I shot okay. See another entry where i use the old cataract excuse. Trigger control had a bit to do with the scattering. A loose front sight didn't help either.
The hole is a little over an inch and even though cut at the muzzle are not perfectly round.
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