Old New in Box CVA Price?
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daniel collums
45 Cal.
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it sounds right if both of you are happy. i saw one sale not to long ago for 140. +shipping, cva kits need lots of personal want to on the builders half to make into a nice rifle. just be very careful when making screw holes and taking off wood. i got one when i was about 13 or 14 and tried putting it together in a hour and never sanded a thing. weeks later i started working it down and got it almost to where it fit together. after i got the wood the way i wanted it and stained i blued the barrel and went on a quest for powder,patches,balls,caps and such. after shooting a few dozen balls through it i learned i had to aim high and to the left to hit a tin can at 25 yards. first deer i ever killed with it jumped up out of a big gully and ran up the hill and stopped to look back. i aim right at his heart then moved the sight 5 inches high and over to his neck and pulled the floppy trigger, "boom" perfect heart shot. fast forward 35 years and some dumb ass thief stole it and probably after not being able to get 10.00 for it threw it in the creek somewhere. no matter what it will be a challenge to put together and make to look good and even more to learn the way it shoots but it will be full all the way.
Ken Cormier
50 Cal.
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Hey I got one of those.LOL
It really depends on the kit. The earlier ones were not as good as the ones later on. They change in quality(for the better) over the years. I bought one a few years ago new in the box. The receipt was still with it from Wards and it was dated in the 70s. I got it cheap so it was worth it to me but wasn't worth near $200. It was a very early one.
The 2 piece stock has been the style CVA has imported for years. I think Traditions is still importing it.
The thing to look at to find if your gun is a early one or a later, much improved one is the lock.
You can't tell by looking at the outside so, remove the lock by loosening the lock screws on the off side of the gun. Unscrew them about 2-3 turns and then tap the screw heads to loosen the lock.
With the lock removed, look at the tumbler. It is the part that the mainspring is pushing against and it rotates when the hammer is moved.
If the tumbler is just sitting there looking at you, you have an old CVA.
If there is a cover (known as a bridle) that is covering most of the tumbler and has a hole in it that the tumbler plugs into, you have a newer improved CVA.
The thing to look at to find if your gun is a early one or a later, much improved one is the lock.
You can't tell by looking at the outside so, remove the lock by loosening the lock screws on the off side of the gun. Unscrew them about 2-3 turns and then tap the screw heads to loosen the lock.
With the lock removed, look at the tumbler. It is the part that the mainspring is pushing against and it rotates when the hammer is moved.
If the tumbler is just sitting there looking at you, you have an old CVA.
If there is a cover (known as a bridle) that is covering most of the tumbler and has a hole in it that the tumbler plugs into, you have a newer improved CVA.
slumlord44
40 Cal.
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Original post did not say it was a kit. Is it a kit? I sold a NOS CVA Hawken kit for $200 about a year ago.
I received a "Kentucky Rifle Kit" in 45 Caliber and percussion for Christmas 1977 and it cost $79.95 from J.C Penny IIRC.
Bob
Bob
That would be top end price. $150.00 would be closer to actualy value. You have a lot of work ahead of you and, even then, results might not be happy.
mjulihn
40 Cal.
Jeepman said:
No mention by the OP that this rifle is from a kit. :shake:
Considering this is reported to be NIB, I think $200 sounds like a good deal! :hatsoff:
My parents bought me for Christmas a rifle kit like you mentioned. I put it together I did not have any trouble getting it to fire. The problem was the rifling was very ruff after talking to the gunsmith at Four Flags for his advice I took a metal rod threaded the end to hold lead. Wrapped a rag on the end to stop the lead pushed it down the barrel about four inches poured lead down let it cool and pulled the rod with the lead on it. Then put valve grind compound on the lead ran it back and forth enough times to remove the roughness. Afterword's I could load and shoot without burning up my patches. It turned out to be accurate enough to hit pop cans up to 50 yards but someone stole it along with all my and my fathers guns.
