Old treadle powered grinding wheels

[Brasilikilt]

Hello again!

Not quite sure if this is the right sub-forum, but suppose it's close enough.

I have been looking around on the net for one of these old grind stones to use as a cooler, more controlled method to do finish work and sharpen my forged blades and other edged tools.

I know that more that a few of you have experience using these old grindstones, so I would really appreciate any suggestions or advice.

Other than the obvious visible defects such as a stone which is not trued-up/out-of-round, has sizable chips along the edge or cracks, what should I look for?

I understand that the majority of these stones are made from sandstone which I assume is the the lighter colored stuff.
There is one for sale locally which has a darker grayish appearance. Would this darker stone possibly be superior to the more common sandstone?

Any information or suggestions are much appreciated

Thank you

Iain

 

[rustylaidlaw]

Hey B
I have a little experience with bigger stones and you're along the right lines, they are usually a very soft natural stone. The one I'm currently using is 34" across, and a light olive green color. I assume it's sandstone. As long as you run the stone SLOW and keep water to it (I have a water trough) it'll work just fine. Doesn't need to be completely round, a few chips don't matter.
You'll never go back to motor powered grinders again.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Generally, but not always, the lighter brown the stone the softer the stone.Remember the large old stones were just that- natural stone. And as such they varied as to where they were quarried. :idunno: :idunno:

 

[longshot47]

Watch out for cracks which run from the edge towards the center [hub] of the stone. Those with a trough should be drained after use or certain of the more porous stones may suffer deterioration. A stone with shallow freeze cracks along the wear surface may still be serviceable, though better to avoid. As stated, eccentricity in motion is a lesser problem than wobble.
Hint: install some type of flexible drag at the edge of the wheel to help keep the water where you want it.
:thumbsup:

 

[Brasilikilt]

Thanks everyone, this is all good advice!

I found one up in Washington which is 26" and has a 3.5" thickness....It's "sandstone" and "very old"

No frame? no problem!
I knew those heavy 10' oak timbers I salvaged off pallets would come in handy, and being a welder/blacksmith, I figured I could make my own mounting hardware.....
Thanks to you guys for arming me with a little more knowledge about these stones...I might actually know what I'm talking about when I try to talk the price down

 

[zimmerstutzen]

I used one of those years ago when working on my uncles farm. It was terrible for everything but very rough grinding. My dad had a dark greenish colored disk shaped stone that was mounted like a record turntable, about 15 inches in diameter. It turned with a foot peddle. It was more like a fine Ouchita stone. We used oil on it and it could do a much more precise fine grind.

 

[Brasilikilt]

Hello

It is true that these stones can have a very rough grit, but others I have seen have a smoother grit...It just depends on the stone.

My main reason for getting one of these is to have a more controlled method of finishing and sharpening the blades I forge without going too fast and getting hot, or removing too much metal.

I know that I'll probably go to my regular whetstones to do what this revolving stone can't

 

[tiger13]

"Other than the obvious visible defects such as a stone which is not trued-up/out-of-round, has sizable chips along the edge or cracks, what should I look for?"
I know one of the main things I would look for is some one to do the peddling for me!!! :rotf:

 

[MSW]

i would recommend your daughter's boyfriend. better than a plow horse, and much cheaper (unless you count the cost of feed)

:rotf: :rotf: