One or to coats of Iron Nitrate?

[RocketMan58]

Ok, I'm back to the well of knowledge looking on some advice on my first iron nitrate /maple adventure.
I'm in the wood finishing stage on my SMR and marveling at the dramatic change the maple is taking on with each effort.
The stock has been sanded toughly down to 400 grt 3 times with whiskering in between. I'm pretty happy with it so far.
Last night, I put of a good coat of Kibler Iron Nitrate. I got scared initially. I know the wood was supposed to turn green but this thing was swamp monster green .
After about an hour I used the heat gun (medium setting, moving constantly) to better the finish (and my anxiety level.)
So what you see, is where I am now.
I've noted in Jim's video's that he states that he often uses two coats of Iron Nitrate but he usually shows the results of one only coat. Now I'm wondering should I do another coat? I've done a couple of searchers here and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. So, if I do, what will be the effect on the finished product? Darker wood? More/less contrast? Should I just leave it alone, burnish and finish at this point? Thoughts appreciated!

 

[Freedom]

By applying only once, it seems that I always miss some little spot. I always do at least two coats.

Your stock will easily accept another coat without becoming too dark. And I feel you will achieve an even better "curl" contrast.

 

[RocketMan58]

By applying only once, it seems that I always miss some little spot. I always do at least two coats.

Your stock will easily accept another coat without becoming too dark. And I feel you will achieve an even better "curl" contrast.

Thanks for that. I put the first coat on with a maroon scotchbright pad. What prep would you recommend before the second coat?

 

[wiscoaster]

I tried something different on one of my curly maple test pieces where the iron nitrate was applied over the dried stain. But, I didn't apply the iron nitrate twice; I heated it twice. First heated to change the color, then abraded with Scotchbrite and steel wool to remove most of the iron nitrate and reveal the underlying stain color, then a second pass with the heat gun to further darken the remaining iron nitrate that had soaked into the figuring. I think I'll try this method with a couple different stains.

 

[Freedom]

I would not use a Scotch pad for application. Just a good wetting with a cloth or sponge-brush.
When that dries, I generally apply another wetting.

Then blush with a heatgun.

The scotch pad is used for building a slurry and reveling curl, with your first application of finish/sealer.
Go slow with the Scotch-Brite sanding during the first oil/finish application...so you keep your colors looking smooth and even.

 

[Harry Marinakis]

That grey/green color means you haven't heated it enough. Practice on some scraps to see how much heat you need to get that nice amber color. Get it heated properly, then decide if you need another coat.

 

[stubshaft]

I usually put two coats on since when I put one on, I usually find a spot I missed.

 

[RocketMan58]

I'm thinking I haven't missed any spots but don't want to leave any figure enhancement on the table if a second coat buys that.
Is it acceptable practice to put a second coat on AFTER it's been applied and heated once?

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

I also usually do two coats as well. I blush each coat. Every piece of wood is different and will react differently. I did both of these fowlers with two coats blushing each, and look at the different results. These are both maple. No additional stain or dyes. Same oil.

 

[wiscoaster]

......
Is it acceptable practice to put a second coat on AFTER it's been applied and heated once?

No such thing as "acceptable practice" - it's mainly personal preference for methods that get the results one wants to get. There's no reason you can't put on a second coat; just keep in mind additional coats cover preceding coats and subsequently whatever method you use the resulting color effects are going to be resulting in darker and darker main background color as well as figuring accent color. Getting a pronounced accent figuring color against a lighter main background color is always quite a trick, and usually involves more than just applying another coat of whatever you're applying. It's going to require abrading using discretely applied finger pressure and abrasion medium, and overall lots of elbow grease, patience, and step-by-step re-evaluation of results. Let the wood do the talking. That's the neat thing about woodworking. The material you're working gives lots of feedback as to whether what you're doing is something that it responds favorably - or unfavorably - to your efforts.

 

[RocketMan58]

Ok, truth be told, I DID miss a spot. (That little 1/4" bridge of wood between the trigger plate and the rear of the trigger guard. ) In any case, I just did another coat. I reheated what was there, let it cool and then applied another good coat of the Iron Nitrate. From there, I heated it up twice just to make sure I had not missed anything. I can see that the color got a little darker and more rusty. Much nicer really. Attached are 2 pics ea of the stock after wetting with Iron Nitrate and then again after the second heating. I'm thrilled to see the hint of some pretty nice wood under there. I'll let it rest tonight then scotch bright on some Tried and True Oil Varnish tomorrow. Thanks again to the group for the good advice.