Mgbruch
40 Cal
First of all, I’ve never seen an original full stocked Longrifle that had a two piece stock. It wasn’t done, and I can’t think of a single reason why it would have been done. There are some original half stocked guns that had a wooden under-rib, as opposed to a metal one. In those cases the rib was a separate piece of wood. Those are the only examples I know of. I could be wrong.
It depends on where you want to go, and how traditional you want to be. You obviously don’t want a two piece stock anyway, or you wouldn’t have posed the question. I’m traditional. And pretty opinionated, when it comes to longrifles… so take this for whatever you decide it’s worth.
Price aside.
The Kibler kits are the easiest to assemble; and I wouldn’t say they’re a lot of work. But you will need more than a screwdriver to assemble one. There are also other high quality kits out there, and they do require more knowledge and work.
I have to admit that my knowledge about the arms from Traditions and Pedersoli is limited to what I read on the forums. They can be made to shoot well, and are accurate arms. So they can be functional, but not traditional in terms of design and style.
A traditional kit will have its design and styling modeled after historic pieces. Straight barrels were rare. Depending on the guns, barrels were swamped, or tapered. Barrel lengths varied widely; but that was also determined by the type of arm, as was the lock used, furniture, etc…
I cannot stress the importance of the lock, when it comes to flintlocks. Kibler, Chambers, L&R, and Davis, all stand behind their locks with a lifetime warrantee. If it’s in need of repair, you can send it to them (right here is the US), and they’ll have it repaired and back to you quickly, and at no charge. Spare parts for these locks are also readily available.
When making decisions like yours, I often ask myself… “What will I wish I had done a year from now?”
I would encourage you to search out the forums for photos of original arms, contemporary reproductions, and production guns. Look at the lines, the styling, the locks and furniture, and the transitions from one area of the gun to another. Even better; if you’re able, handle and shoot some traditionally built pieces. A well designed and built gun is like a well toned physique; while some productions guns are more like the Stay Puff Marshmallow man.
A well designed and built flintlock carries, handles, points, and shoots like it’s an extension of yourself. They are magic to me. A flintlock can easily become your favorite gun for target shooting and putting meat on the table. Or it can be a never-ending exercise in frustration that ends up gathering dust in a closet.
A high quality kit will cost you more money. A lot more. It will also result in an arm that, if used and cared for properly, will be a gun that your children can pass on to their children.
It depends on where you want to go, and how traditional you want to be. You obviously don’t want a two piece stock anyway, or you wouldn’t have posed the question. I’m traditional. And pretty opinionated, when it comes to longrifles… so take this for whatever you decide it’s worth.
Price aside.
The Kibler kits are the easiest to assemble; and I wouldn’t say they’re a lot of work. But you will need more than a screwdriver to assemble one. There are also other high quality kits out there, and they do require more knowledge and work.
I have to admit that my knowledge about the arms from Traditions and Pedersoli is limited to what I read on the forums. They can be made to shoot well, and are accurate arms. So they can be functional, but not traditional in terms of design and style.
A traditional kit will have its design and styling modeled after historic pieces. Straight barrels were rare. Depending on the guns, barrels were swamped, or tapered. Barrel lengths varied widely; but that was also determined by the type of arm, as was the lock used, furniture, etc…
I cannot stress the importance of the lock, when it comes to flintlocks. Kibler, Chambers, L&R, and Davis, all stand behind their locks with a lifetime warrantee. If it’s in need of repair, you can send it to them (right here is the US), and they’ll have it repaired and back to you quickly, and at no charge. Spare parts for these locks are also readily available.
When making decisions like yours, I often ask myself… “What will I wish I had done a year from now?”
I would encourage you to search out the forums for photos of original arms, contemporary reproductions, and production guns. Look at the lines, the styling, the locks and furniture, and the transitions from one area of the gun to another. Even better; if you’re able, handle and shoot some traditionally built pieces. A well designed and built gun is like a well toned physique; while some productions guns are more like the Stay Puff Marshmallow man.
A well designed and built flintlock carries, handles, points, and shoots like it’s an extension of yourself. They are magic to me. A flintlock can easily become your favorite gun for target shooting and putting meat on the table. Or it can be a never-ending exercise in frustration that ends up gathering dust in a closet.
A high quality kit will cost you more money. A lot more. It will also result in an arm that, if used and cared for properly, will be a gun that your children can pass on to their children.
